Tony

Using a higher gear means you should be using less revs when going around that corner... and people do this for exactly the reason you mention just above: "At high rpm the forces acting on the bearings are less sympathetic to low oil pressure than at low rpm" (Generally, you find that most people driving Subarus would use 3rd gear to go around that particular corner at Manfeild).

I have just been through this dilemma myself. There is actually a bit more work to it than just bolting the adapters on and then bolting your P1 manifold to them. The main hassle is that the ports for the P2 heads are actually further apart than P1, so in order for it to work correctly the manifold needs to be extended by around 12mm in the centre so that the runners will meet up to the adapters (it is for this reason, a place in the UK that use to offer these adapters no longer makes them to suit P1 manifold to P2 heads). I flagged it and just used the correct manifold in the end (albeit I did have to remake other bits to suit the new manifold but it was the easier/cheaper option). Heres the link to Car Davey who used to make them: http://www.carldavey.co.uk/product.php?id=16 There is a pic on there showing how the manifold is extended.

Just measured mine (as my manifold was sitting in the lounge lol)... roughly 66mm horizontal, 62mm vertical. From what I gather the subaru inlet manifolds all have the same spacing for TB mounting??

We use Regals for all our engine machining etc at work. Good bunch of guys, very knowledgeable and thorough. You shouldn\'t have any trouble with the work they have done.

No probs. But you might be hard pressed to find Metric Fine bolts at Mitre 10. Last time I tried to get bolts form there they only stocked coarse thread/common type bolts (was aaaaaages ago though). Your best bet would be to try a bolt/fastening specialist type place (Fortress Fasteners, Steelmasters etc)

Are the lower gearbox (long) mounting studs not on the block still? If not, you will need four M10x1.25 bolts with sufficient length to pass through the stand mounting frame and into the block. Probably need some decent sized washers too as most of the engine stand holes are quite large and the 14mm head on an M10 bolt will pass through the hole (depends on what stand you have though I guess). [edit] If you have them laying around, you can use the (top) gearbox mounting bolts as they are usually long enough.

Go and see Al at Macbilt in Cashew Street (?) Grenada North.

Anti lift kit wont get rid of the excessive angle on the control arms and tie rods - you need roll centre and bump steer adjusters (ideally more than what the Whiteline roll centre kit offers if the car is super low). Marc has some bits for sale for a real good price which may suit you: http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,41547.0.html

It certainly wouldnt hurt. We do it on a couple of the circuit cars as on really warm days after a few laps the heat can cause inlet temps to rise. I havent done it on my own car so cant comment from personal experience sorry (so far my intercooler has proved efficient enough to do the job) but in my opinion its a good mod for not a lot of money spent.

You shouldnt need a pressure switch Clint, the G4 can do that for you. Just use a spare aux Output and set it to come on at a certain inlet temp, or boost level.

Try a motorbike shop - they commonly use springs on their exhaust systems.

The other wiper actually broke off during a wet race a few years back - went flying off the track and I never found it. Just moved the position of that one so it kinda does something if needed, but I hardly use the wipers anyway, rain-X works far better than they do at speed. Bumper is readily available on TM: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/body-kits-mouldings/auction-688711516.htm Although you would have to see if they will seperate it from the rest of teh kit?

Cheers Johnny. The LH side one is an airplex headlight cover with holes cut into it and cable tied on, and the RH side is one of those morette headlights with the 2 lights removed. I used to have them in both sides, but the LH one got smashed in a crash a while ago so just use one of those covers on that side now. The covers are okay, just hard to mount decently and very fragile (they break very easy - brittle).

Aw shucks, cheers guys hmmm, thats an old pic (with my duct tape front bumper ) Looks a bit better these days:

Pretty sure you will need the 6 speed clutch fork. From memory, the 5 speed one sits at the wrong angle (been aaaaaages since I did my conversion and back then I knew all the ins & outs of what was needed, what works & what doesnt etc, but I am old and forgetful these days!). Did you not get the 6 speed fork with the box? [quote name='rslegy said: I thought u had use a 6mt flywheel and clutch for it to work properly Nope, 5 speed clutch and flywheel work fine - just need to use the 5 speed starter motor with it.

Use that with any factory subaru front LSD equipped box as well. The factory LSDs in the 6 speeds do not require any special LSD oils, as they are either viscous (suretrac) or helical, not plated (hence no need for an LSD specific oil - but you can still use it, I dount it would do any harm, apart from costing a bit more!)

Gear 300 LS is very similar to the FF LSD oil so Mr. Motul told me. It was a recent addition to the Gear 300 range made to suit boxes with LSDs. I am currently using that on their recommendation and all seems good - cant say I can tell the difference between the 2 types at all though!

Cheers for the vote of confidence Logan (+ Clint & Russ)! While I do most of the work on my own car myself, I am by no means a mechanic so it certainly wouldnt be me doing the work on the customers cars! (I am workshop manager/parts guy/point of contact etc). Rest assured though, our guys are well experienced with pretty much every area of mechanical, electrical, and tuning work so can handle most jobs well enough (but yes, we have done a fair bit with Subarus so know them fairly well).

Yeah for sure, I fully get where you\'re coming from. Maybe they are in fact "built to Tomei\'s specs" etc and are different to the other SSI ones, but they are made by SSI. I have seen some Tomei headers in person and they still have the SSI logo stampings on them (you can even see them in that pic you posted - on the head flanges, and under the up-pipe flange). Either way, both types do their job well, its just up the buyers to make their minds up, and a lot of the time, (especially in my job) budget dictates the outcome of which parts are chosen.

The "$900" headers you are talking about that Redline sell would be the SSI ones. These are VERY good. Interestingly, SSI make the headers for Tomei (and some other brands), so the extra couple of hundered you are paying for them is to cover that fancy metal badge that is stuck on them (and the roll of heat wrap I guess)

Simota do 4" options, and reasonably priced too - around $65ish + GST retail.

In my opinion/experience, its best to bite the bullet and only use really good quality rose joints for steering arms. I use Aurora motorsport grade rod ends. Was previously using QA1 rod ends and found that they would develop play in them after each event, and was regularly replacing them due to being paranoid of them failing on me. Have had the Aurora ones in there for 3 years now and had no issues with them at all (multiple race meetings/track days done on them). I got mine through Barry at MRP (I think he offers deals to clubsub members?). Otherwise Autoquip in Auckland are also suppliers of Aurora these days (www.autoquip.co.nz)

iq3 is Racepak isnt it? The boss set one of those up for a customer earlier this year, didnt have any issues (I am not sure of the specifics related to Racepak though as most of the time we deal with Race Technology or Motec). I think for the Racepak dash you need to wire their cable into a Link CAN-Dash cable for it to connect to the ECU?

Most sensors (as long as you have the calibration) are compatible with the Link ECU. As long as the ECU has readings from these sensors, the dash will display it (in some cases/dash dependant you may need to make equations in order for the information to display as you want it). All you need is the specific interface cable (from the dash supplier) which allows the dash to see the data stream that the ECU is spitting out. With a Link, the cable to connect to the interface would be a CAN to Serial connector cable (for the Link to dash connections we have dealt with anyway).

Its 278kw, 2 litre motor, Garrett-ish turbo and the other usual stuff. Handles & stops fairly well too. Potential is there for quicker times, just need more laps under my belt.