Tony

Yeah they use the same type of up-right with bolt in bearing/hub (also the new Outbacks etc). They are 5x100 pcd and I *think* the bearings are smaller? Not sure about the clevis on them though, if they are fat and have the different hole spacing like the STI ones?

GC8 front axles go into the V9/10 front hubs fine - they have the same splines. This is the set-up I am running on my car. If you decide to go that way you will run into problems with the strut mounting clevis on the upright though. It is a lot thicker, and the holes are spaced differently so pre V9 front struts will not work. Best way to fix that issue is to have the clevis machined down so it is the same thickness as pre V9, and then re-drill one of the strut mounting holes so everything lines up. This is how we did BT's hubs. The other way to sort it is if you have coil overs with height asjustable lower perches.... Just remove the original lower perch and (hopefully) get a hold of some V9/10 lower perches which just thread on and there you have it... Thats how I did mine, but I was lucky in the sense that I came across some spare V9/10 lower perches to suit my coil overs just sitting at my mechanics! Heres a pic of the 2 different styles of front hubs side by side so you can see what I'm talking about:

The stiffer sidewalls in the RE070 can cause this kinda tramlining effect. Common with this tyre (and semi slicks) and quite noticable when switching from normal road tyres.

Simple explanation - When the brake disc pushes back against the brake pad which in turn, pushes the brake pistons back into the caliper - caused by play in the wheel bearings and experienced when pushing through corners (Manfeild esses as example) then wanting to slow down afterwards (for the hairpin). Turning through a sweeping left, then right pushes the pistons back, so when you go to put the brakes on, the pedal is longer than expected - certainly gives you a scare!

Still common on GCs, heat from the brakes is another big factor that kills them. You will know when they are starting to go - usually getting horrible pad knock-off through the esses then you come up to the hairpin and brake pedal goes to the floor!

Heres some pics I got of it at WTAC last weekend.....

What sort of racing are you doing? What sort of tyres do you want to run (semis or full slicks)? How much power does your car have? Personally, there is no point going for 10"+ wide rims and running 265+ wide tyres unless you have serious power and actually need that much grip. Sure it might look "cool" though, but no point over tyring the car - just more weight to lug around if you dont have the power to make use of the grip. 17x8/18x8 will fit fine on a standard bodied GC with minimal mods (rolling the rear guard lip up and run some negative camber). You would just have to make sure your offset is in the +44-50 range so the rims dont poke out to far. Any lower than this and you are going to need the rear guards pumped to fit the tyres under the guards. Fronts are not so much of a problem really as you should be running decent negative camber on the front so the wheels will be under the guards - but I would advise cutting/grinding the lip on the guard so there are no edges the tyre can get damaged on when turning & hitting bumps etc. Best thing is to make sure the tyre you are using suits the rim width. ie: you dont want to fit super wide tyres to skinny rims and end up with bulging sidewalls. On a 17x8 I would recommend running a 235/40/17 tyre, or on a 17x7.5 rim run a 215/45/17. In any of the decent brand semi slicks you wont have any grip issues with these tyre sizes. I am running 17x8.5 and that is pretty much a perfect fit for the 240 slicks I use. My rear guards have been pumped out around 20mm wider than standard, front guards pulled and the lip ground off (I use Ver. 10 front hubs which are 10mm wider each side than GC ones so needed a little more space). Hope that is of some help.

hahahaha, sorry guys, maybe I should explain a bit further - retiring as in retiring the car from actual competitive racing type stuff, will still do track days and car club sprints etc when I can or if Alana wants to use it. Car wont be split up sorry. Cheers for the support today

New PB for me today at the Manfeild/United Travel Race Series Round 3 - 1.12.97 Proof: http://www.mylaps.com/results/showrun.jsp?id=2011103 Retiring after final round in September

Barry Manon has used these turbos to great success on his Toyota (ran a 10 sec quarter mile and won superlap a few years ago). They cant be that bad. He also supplies them and I see he is now a Clubsub sponsor, so maybe drop him a PM - name on here is MRP LTD.

IMO car forums are probably one of the worst places to come and learn! Too many people with too many differing opinions and everyone has to throw their little piece in - sometimes its hard to decipher which info is legit Most of the time the "real" usable info gets lost amongst the dribble.

Will check tonight and see what I have....

Scrap that - I just saw your wanted thread and it had the pictures of the CVs so that reminded me what the issues were... You're right, the V9 axles wont work with the early hubs, I was wrong, I must have been thinking of something else! Reason being, the V9/10 hubs use a seperate sealed bearing drive flange that bolts to the upright so there is no external rubber seal that the CV needs to seal against. As you said in the WTB thread, you need the CVs with the step as that is the bit which sits against the rubber seal on the earlier 5x100 hubs. Sorry if I got your hopes up. I'm guessing your V9 axles have male inner CVs that plug directly into the gearbox rather than female (with stub axles on the gearbox itself)?

Ok, got ya. Leave it with me and I will get back to you tonight - I have that V9 axle at home, so will have a play around with one of my old hubs and see if I can make it work, as I am sure I had that axle fitted to an older hub (but then again, I could be wrong, it was a little while ago so maybe I am getting confused!). From memory I cut of the ABS tone ring for some reason.... Will let ya know how I get on.

So is it the V9 STI (5x114 PCD) 2 piece front hubs you are having issues with? If so, yes, that model does have different outer CVs, but the only real difference is the location of the ABS tone ring as the sensor sits in a different place when compared to the older hubs - your axle should still go in the hub fine (splines are the same). If you are not running ABS then it shouldnt be an issue (unless BC axles & hubs are different to GC ones - sorry dont know much about BCs). I am running normal GC front axles with V9/10 hubs (no ABS though). And you cant actually buy the V9/10 outer CVs seperatly so Subaru told me - have to buy complete axles (ex Japan) and they are BIIIIG money! I do have 1 V9/10 complete front axle if you wanted to go that way, would just need to find another thats all. Otherwise post up some pics of the bits you have and I will see if I can help you figure it out.... [edit] - sorry, upon re-reading, I *may* have misunderstood you... do you actually have the V9 axles and they dont fit in your BC hubs? Is that what you are meaning?

There seems to be 2 different hole patterns on the drive flange for the R180 rear diffs (and it seems they are random too, not specific to certain models or anything). If thats the problem you are experiencing with your driveshaft holes not matching the holes on the diff, then all you need to do is as Koom suggested - slot the holes on the driveshaft so they match the diff. There are no issues with doing this since the driveshaft gets centred anyway by the other lip in the middle. I had to slot mine inwards, so needed to flatten off one side of the head on each bolt as well to allow them to lock into place against the flat part on the driveshaft. Hopefully you understand what I mean.

You shouldnt have any issues using either axle combination. I have used both and there was no problems at all. I have adjustable rear arms which are wound out probably a bit further than stock GD ones (to get the toe & camber settings I desire) and have run it like this using stock GC8 STI RA rear axles on my race car and never had an axle pop out of the CV cup if thats what you are meaning by the problems some people have. The length difference in the axles is very minimal anyway - I compared a bare (no CVs) GC R180 shaft to a bare V10 R180 shaft and there was only 5mm (if that) more length in the V10 one.

Hope that helps

Hmmm, I just compared it to one of my old videos and it looks the same as what they run normally for track 1 these days, unless they just closed it up a slight bit more and it is too hard to notice on the vid. Originally they ran the more open chicane for that track, but when A1GP came, they wanted to make it tighter to test the brave for passing opportunities! (or something like that anyway). Prior to that, lap times around track 1 were (from memory) around 4-5 seconds faster so it definitly slowed the cars down a bit by making that corner tighter.

What is "modified T12 chicane"? Did you guys change something for the megameet? Cos it looks the same to me (from your videos) unless I am missing something?

Heres the verification - this is a snip from the results sheet for Race 3 with my times for each lap: Still buzzing! Videos nearly done

New PB for me on Manfeild yesterday.... July 3rd 2011, Round 2, United Travel Race Series - 1.13.03 Oh so close to a 12! (Nearly time to retire).

Back when I had my scoop reversed, I made some spacers out of flat plastic sheet and stuck them to the underside of the scoop to fill in that gap that you end up with - seemed to work fine. I also remember possibly slotting some of the mounting holes or re-drilling holes in the bonnet so that you can use all the bolts.

I'd use them....... I just cant afford them Will be in touch when I win Lotto or something!

And while you are at it, dont buy cheap fittings either... they have been known to fail. Its not worth the risk when dealing with stuff like fuel, and oil cooler lines IMO. GSS has all the good quality fittings - I would recommend them (be prepared to open your wallet though).