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Marky

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Everything posted by Marky

  1. Oh I meant DIY'ing the tune stuff, not paying someone for it. Easy to just wing it when you have a 2k car to blow up... not so much a 20k one at risk
  2. Yeah just buy a tactrix cable and faff about with that Those throttle controllers are like an s-afc in that while they do work exactly as described, these days there are more effective options available
  3. Would you say it's almost like a stone being shaken in a tin can? And only when full throttle?
  4. Insurance is well wise to the "just a named driver" thing, and I have heard of cases where the insurer went "okay so, when's the last time you actually drove the vehicle? Oh never? Okay no payout for you." If you can afford 30k of car and you're still living at home, you can afford to do things properly. It's all good to hope it's fine until you rear end a range rover and find they decline the claim They are also well aware that regardless of what your warranty says about it, a straight pipe is an obvious modification. Just play it safe man On that note, crashed mine the other morning On the plus side, my excess is less than what I was going to pay to get the front end resprayed so there's a silver lining to it
  5. Literally if you give them a size and shape and spring rate they will make it Yes I quoted me
  6. They have a normal coil over strut setup right? Chamberlains springs in chch will make whatever to suit Simple
  7. https://www.cobbtuning.com/highest-horsepower-stock-ecu-subaru-of-all-time/ Its sort of a how long is a piece of string question Everyone has their preferences, some are happy to work around the stock ecu and others prefer the blank slate of a link etc Theres not much the stock ecu can't do that a link can, but the way to do it can be a bit of a headache compared to a standalone
  8. Or look at it this way 8k is enough difference that he can replace every single moving part on the car with nice bits, and have something improved in every way other than what the odo shows Just look for the bargain, bushes are cheap, struts are cheap, and it's a Subaru so the motor could assplode at any given moment anyway. It might look like a low km minter however it might have done 50 thou city kms rowing the gears as opposed to 150 thou of country roads in 6th Put it this way - when I'm buying a car for the mrs, or the mum in law, we shop for low kms as that's what their mindset is, and overall how mint is it as they dont want to touch a thing. When I'm shopping for me, I buy with the intent that I'm replacing anything I don't like and parts that are perfectly functional anyway, I look at it as something to build on not a static showpiece which won't change. The mrs wants the opposite and hence we buy cars with warranty etc for her - I legitimately enjoy working on stuff so buy the fixer upper on purpose... then invariably sell it for profit Youll do what you do. My dad always sold cars at 99km because he hated that mental leap to 3 figures. Some folks will ignore the moving parts entirely and only care about a small shopping ding as an indicator of a cars condition - everyone has their eye on something different and everyone's standards vary
  9. For arguments sake - almost double the cost, to get a few less kms and different wheels?
  10. But st the same time... 12000 for a 20 year old car with 150kms? Shop smarter New Zealand Just buy like this https://www.trademe.co.nz/1306268758 Or similar cheap, looks the part, post 2000 so yearly wofs and reflashable ecu facelift it to v8 spec if you can't stand the butterface effect done
  11. What is it exactly that you want, and what's your budget Thats a long way from a v9 sedan If it were me I'd pay half that for a stocker or earlier model and work from there, that car looks a bit of a mishmash of big spending combined with half arsed stuff
  12. Could you run remove the internal flapper, and have a pipe run down beside the downpipe to where there's room to fit a gate upside down - effectively the same as the internal just bigger Ive done it, just not on a suby
  13. I'm not trying to sound like a dick but I don't think you really know what you want? Go drive some cars, make up your mind what you ebpven want to do with it. A v8 sti is far more capable than a v10 wrx.... but the v10 is a totally different looking car inside and out and you might be more keen on that aspect? If you just want to go fast go buy the cheapest v7 you can find and go nuts, if you just want bragging rights of a newer model then go drive the different options of that shape... Do you have daydreams of a weekend track car, e-fame from something that gets all the #likes, do you want to make a show car, are you spending an hour in traffic a day, are you more keen on meremere every Friday? You can test drive a car, get it looked over by the by the best mechanic around, they still can't tell you if it has spent it's life getting daily 8k cold launches or if it's just been putting to the shops. No warranty = always a gamble, and if it's this sort of car you have to accept it is guaranteed to have had a much harder life than most on the road. It's a pretty massive $ investment for someone I'm guessing is pretty young so get what you really want, not the halfway there option
  14. http://www.ebay.com/bhp/subaru-shifter-bushing Also Pickapart
  15. Exactly Pre purchase might tell you something you've missed, it also might miss something vital and leave you with a false sense of security If you're planning to do it up, buy one already done up and save yourself some coin, or buy a dirt cheap neglected project to refurbish - no point buying a mint stocker to then spend several grand more on doing the basic modifications everyone else does anyway If you're planning to leave it unmolested, buy from a dealer with a comprehensive warranty (double points if you get it pre modified with that same warranty, then you have some wiggle room for fiddling) And ignore the "reason for sale" - people sell cars because a) they need the money (house, travel etc) b) they want to buy something better/different, or c) there's an issue and they want to flick it. Private sale is always buyer beware no matter how trustworthy they may seem. Except me I'm like totes legit babes Oh my strongest bit of advice is try driving a few other options - don't just get your heart set on this one model and look for the best example you can - you might drive something different and go oh hory sheeit this is way more "me". Please see: a million examples of import owners turning V8 or what have you. My workmate had his heart set on his dream car - he got it (R32 with 25DET) - 3 weeks later he's swapped for a 180sx
  16. Yes it can and it'd be advisable to do sooner not later. It will hurt power a bit but it's better than hurting the motor more For what it's worth I've been seeing those go for a few grand less quite often these days - that's almost paying dealer prices for a private sale
  17. stereotype of old legacy: labrador in boot (well, a lab sized collie / shepherd cross) gold wheels because subaru bonnet raised on Saturday morning 😂 Reason: Surges when cold for a minute and missfire on high boost, cleaning the afm improved it slightly but plugs were the next bet I wonder if this could be the reason... I mean I'm no expert but call it a hunch J Joys of buying a 15 year old car for $1500 On the plus side it was $1500 so I can't complain all that much
  18. Submarine spares in Chch made one, think they used it themselves? Wouldn't be a tricky job if you could be arsed with getting a shell in from Canadia eh
  19. You're full of great ideas
  20. Just decat the primary pipe for $free and flick the big ones They don't make *that* much difference and the money from selling them would pay for a TD05 and manfold Just sayin
  21. Bought a car knowing it had this issue... now not sure how to fix Short version - the dash gauges play silly buggers. The fuel gauge will periodically give up, and drop from wherever it is to 0 over about 45 sec, then perk back up. Temp does the same, and the rev counter has just once decided to just read 0 while the motor was running. Where should I start - is this likely to be a dash cluster issue or earth related? Alternator looks to have been already replaced, and it has one of those stupid Japanese earthing kits from battery neg to anything unboltsble
  22. Installed a sweet buckie ow And cleaned the AFM element Before After Oh and did the hose ten thing
  23. Weird. Tho if it thinks there's a fault then it'll be in limp mode I guess Legitimately have you tried turning it off and on again? Sometimes a reset (battery off or that bastard method with the plugs) makes it happy again
  24. It isn't normally the sensor itself, it's normally a fault with that low boost and the car being a vague piece of S*** at telling you what the problem is. When you say low boost describe what it's doing, does it still switch over? Best place to get a new one is pickapart, if you wear a pair of boots capable of fitting one down them, the part is $free I heard through a mate
  25. Title is clickbait Now I get a bit of grief from workmates for going through cars faster than socks, at least I did till one of them followed suit and started doing the same with the rfb crowd. Basically buying anything underpriced, fixing it up or adding a few cheap things (set of alloys or minor paint work etc), getting a new wof and moving it on, or doing swapz ow for something a bit better. It's well worth the trouble, tho it can confuse the neighbours a bit Do you see a car as a commodity to be bought and sold, something to make money from (like property, but on a smaller scale), or do you see it as something to pour cash into and make it just like the one you always daydreamed about and keep it forever?
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