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Might just need more bleeding mate, don\'t give up hope yet. If you\'ve tried bleeding it for 3 days straight and air keeps coming out then yea might be a BHG.

Sorry mate, sounds like you need a new heater matrix. :-\ Absolute bitch of a job as the whole dash needs to come out to get at it...

Its not the cops fault the cars get stolen, but tbh they don\'t do a lot when you report a theft. But then again there isn\'t a lot they can do so its a lose lose scenario. It is good to know that there is a "Task Force" behind the scenes woping ass. In the article it also said hundreds got parts recovered. Imagine your car gets stolen cops knock on your door a week later "We would like to return your alternator"... oh, thanks

I saw, woohoo! Only thing is if you look at the figures quoted on stuff it says 1800cars were stolen and 32 were recovered lol.

Dont go to smith&smith, have herd horror stories. They were from down here in welly though, still wouldnt trust them with my car. I perfer Novas the "show us your crack" guys. ;D

Try strong for subaru http://www.subaruspeed.co.nz/ Their usually pretty good and prompt.

In that case, definitely check/clean MAP sensor as if as soon as vacuum is gone ECU wants to monitor boost but cant because MAP may be stuck thinking its vacuum.

Knock sensors are designed to pick up a very small range of frequencies, so a slight lumpy idle wouldn\'t be detected as knock unless A) Sensors Broken B) engine is knocking on idle, which means you have something seriously wrong lol After thinking a bit more here is my theory: Turbo starts making boost, Ecu detects this controls spool up using solenoid (as per normal) Turbo gets to 7ish psi and wastegate limits it (starts to open) here, Ecu detects this stops sending signal to solenoid (ie stops bleeding boost to try and build more to reach target off 11psi) but (this is the hard part) for some reason turbo doesn\'t make more boost when solenoid stops bleeding. ECU wants more boost cant get it so you get your stumble happening. We want to know the reason turbo cant make more boosty boosty. Wastegate diaphram damage, wastegate getting stuck, solenoid bleed off line or line too wastegate blocked/split, Boost leak between turbo and manifold that MAP sensor can detect, leak in MAP sensor line itself.... Thats my thinking anyway haha

MAP sensor would be a good bet (near boost solenoid) It Could be knock sensor related as well.. Knock falsely detected and ECU limits boost.

Any mods to car? What fuel are you running it on?

Pull the intercooler off, under that there will be 2 heater hoses going into the firewall, these go to the heater core. Something like this: Pull these both off and put your garden hose in there and flush it both ways until water coming out other end is crystal clear. Also pull the rad out and flush that the same way too. Then put it all back together refill with coolant making sure to bleed system fully till NO bubbles come out of overflow bottle tube or pressure cap. Theres heaps of different techniques to bleeding cooling system just google it and see what works best for you and remember these systems are hard to bleed and will take longer so don\'t think its done after 10mins because there will still be air in there.

I would be checking vacuum lines to and from boost solenoid, restrictor pills in lines etc. When you say jerking is it violent? does it feel like its hitting a fuel cut? or is it just a drop in power?

I used to do that haha, its the only additive that i\'ve found that works. Works awesome in gearbox\'s and Diffs too.

Your running the car on 98octane gas? I agree with you that 12,500ks for a service is a bit long. But i would think that after only 5000 on a fresh engine oil wouldn\'t be tarry, black i can believe as this is what the oil is designed to do. I known that at the dealer they use 5w-30 Castrol Magnatec Professional or as its an STI you may get the 5w-30 motul. But im unsure what oil they come with out of the factory, maybe its a different oil to help engine break in?

Anything around 12.7-12.8v and up is fully charged

Best bet is to run the car for a little then try and trace leak as it will put system under pressure. Check hoses under manifold (a bit more tricky) that connect to heater core as well.

Mate i was in your exact situation but a few months ago and I feel your pain. Hope she\'s still relatively in one peace..

Fair enough, the thing about the tactrix is its known to work well. Evoscan cable is a bit of a gamble. I think the speed is limited more by the car than anything else isn\'t it? I also found this http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=603491888 It says its Subaru specific but just looks like the VAG COM cable to me...

That whole thing is just a bundle of awesomeness....

Says on their website: 1999-2007 Subaru EFI ECU Datalogging (SSMII) ECUFlash Tuning 2004 Subaru DBW models STi/FXT/LGT/Baja ECUFlash Tuning 2005-2007 Subaru DBW models WRX/STi ECUFlash Tuning 2005-2006 Subaru DBW models FXT/OBXT/LGT/Baja ECUFlash Tuning 2001-2005 Subaru Impreza WRX (all except USDM) ECUFlash Tuning 2001-2005 Subaru Impreza STI (all except USDM) ECUFlash Tuning 2002-2005 Subaru Impreza WRX (USDM models) Subaru went to shit in 2007 anyway....

It will be a fault with the aerial, head unit just sends out a 5v signal when it wants the aerial up and cuts it when it wants it down, if aerial is trying to retract when its already down will be fault on aerial. disconnect wire from back of aerial unit and see if the battery stays charged. If the aerial is at fault pull it out if you cant obviously fix it, replace it.

Definitely looks like a good unit but: Tactrix 2.0 - $214 + $25 for shipping = $239ish Evoscan 1.3U - $174 + $10 Shipping = $184ish And apart from the flash SD card logging there isnt much more the tactrix can do over the Evoscan cable... and for $55 difference....

That sounds rather useful. Sometimes just plugging in the scan tool to get fault codes is a mission haha

Same cable that your using B4_685? http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=602069901 At 33x the price ;D

That is true haha