scottspeed

I\'ve got a few late model new cranks if you want new at sh price. PM me

This mod doesnt change castor, it only changes the antidive. 10mm is max you really want to add on gc8 and gbd chassis less on grb. By packing this down you actually get the nose to drop more on weight transfer,ie braking. Generally only do this for a gravel car where you want it to pitch and weight transfer more. Generally for tarmac you try to raise this point, hence the aftermarket ones. On alot of models you actually flip this mount over and it will move the pivot point outwards. This has the effect of increasing the camber and the castor.

A properly tuned (ie motorsport) early model subi normally needs a tad more fuel in number 3 cylinder due to the chamber temperature from the exhaust and uppipe wrapped up around that cylinder. Version 5/6 open deck blocks normally require more fuel in number 2 cylinder but for a different reason. (Im talking stock or blueprinted engines and not forged/built engines btw)

Tommy Kaira 2.2 edition is a a hybrid EJ20 with the 2.5 crankshaft, where as the 2.2 NA is EJ22 (96mm bore and 75mm stroke)

You should be able to sort the airbag setup as they are on seperate ecu sytem, maybe a bit of work but should be able to splice into any required wires if you have the relevant wiring diagrams. The dash and wiring harness will be the biggest/slowest job to graft nicely into each other. Suggest fitting a LINK ecu so that you can elimate alot of the factory sensors and shit that could create warning lights or limp home mode occuring. The v7 is 'widetrack' and would require all the hubs, axles, arms and preferably cross members to make bolt in easy or your'll be stuffing around trying to make axles work (different lengths and splines) If you use the v7 hubs then the gc8 struts run different bolt pattern but most guys seem to butcher then and make them fit up. Intercooler may have to be changed too depending on strut brace or if you want to reshape firewall. There will be lots of little annoying bits, but ultimately will depend on the use of which gc8/ver7 parts are used.

Later generation pumps valving and relief pressures are matched to the specific racks, but most seem to swap early stuff without issues, and most use the same mounts, but sometimes there are different pulley offsets. The Option i normally do on FM setups is to make a plate that has a fitting welded to it that bolts onto the top of the pump and use a remote tank like late model cars do. makes the engine look heaps cleaner too.

sounds dodgy! Nothing much they can do, eaiest is to revin it. Easy enough job unless its modified without a cert, then wreck it out.

If its a subi, make sure you think whether you really want it Diamond honed!

I'd be going and trying plug gaps. Most cars with this combo with the older coil packs that i tune seem to not have overly great spark and as a general rule I'll always start at .025" plug gap. Also over rich can have a similar effect. Make sure AFR isnt any richer than about 11.8:1

Yeah unfortunately in motorsport thats the joy of having to breath through a small turbo air intake restrictor. General rule, smaller restrictor makes more low rpm torque but limits top end power. If you average a straight line down the the right hand side of the graph that basically is the choked airflow limit

yeah that would be awesome, that's the sort of thing i like to drive. Mine makes 120kw at 3k - what's the most you've seen at around that rpm? Ok here are some examples of different MY01 onwards rally restrictor engines. For those that dont know, Group N (1st graph)is the stock engine no modifications allowed and previously 32mm now 33mm diameter turbo air restrictor, and Group A (2nd graph) or open class is 34mm or 36mm and Engine mods allowed. Always makes me laugh when people go for a ride in a rally car and think they have 500HP+!! a good 300hp engine will beat many "400Hp street cars" when the right combo of bits is used.

what do you mean laggier? surely not as in power threshold. that car makes the same as my 2.5 setup, 180kw at 4000rpm, which is extremely early, a lot better than any stock car. in fact dyno plots are few and far between to find more power than that at 4k. you must be meaning 3500 and under which i suppose is a little down, but gee, pretty responsive for 340kw, even with a 2.5. i'd love to know what was done as far as headwork, and details of the turbo setup but it looks like you don't want to share that info. well done Sorry I Get used to dealing with more response rally/ tarmac cars which start making good power from 3000rpm, hence this is alot laggier than them but takes over over 5000rpm Might try and dig out a dyno sheet later to show you what I mean.

· SAE -- The SAE standard applied is a modified version of the SAE J1349 standard of June 1990. Power is corrected to reference conditions of 29.23 InHg (99 kPa) of dry air and 77 F (25°C). This SAE standard requires a correction for friction torque. Friction torque can be determined by measurements on special motoring dynamometers (which is only practical in research environments) or can be estimated. When estimates must be used, the SAE standard uses a default Mechanical Efficiency (ME) value of 85%. This is approximately correct at peak torque but not at other engine operating speeds. Some dynamometer systems use the SAE correction factor for atmospheric conditions but do not take mechanical efficiency into consideration at all (i.e. they assume a ME of 100%). · STP -- The STP (also called STD) standard is another power correction standard determined by the SAE. This standard has been stable for a long time and is widely used in the performance industry. Power is corrected to reference conditions of 29.92 InHg (103.3 kPa) of dry air and 60 F (15.5°C). Because the reference conditions include higher pressure and cooler air than the SAE standard, these corrected power numbers will always be about 4 % higher than the SAE power numbers. · ECE -- The ECE standard is based on the European Directives. Power is corrected to reference conditions of 99 kPa (29.23 InHg) of dry air and 25°C (77 F). Friction torque is not taken into consideration at all. · DIN -- The DIN standard is determined by the German automotive industry. Power is corrected to reference conditions of 101.3 kPa (29.33 InHg) of dry air and 20°C (68 F). With the advent of European legislation and standards, national standards such as the DIN (formerly widely used) are now less significant.

Yeah the lower rpm high power kinda gives the 2.5 displacement away And yes its on a modified Garrett 3540R Id be sad if a EZ30 only made this! (have one kicking around the shop that should leave the shop with 1000hp) This thing runs just like a stock car, slightly laggier but makes 500+ wheel HP! And it does alot of miles between rebuilds.

Where are all the good dynod cars?? Heres one I did, sorry dont want to give too much away on the spec, but its pretty basic, on 98 BP fuel, low boost 14psi, high boost 19psi

Ditto to this, and also soft/old/broken engine mounts will have an influence here too.

if it pressure checks ok,i'd be thinking a jamed thermostat. What happens is water wont circulate around engine and ends up boiling itself away. it'll keep taking all the water from the catch bottle as it tries to circulate. If not careful it will need head gaskets soon.

If it didnt have the issue before with the old chip, sounds like a dodgey chip. The airflow meter should allow the engine to see the correct airflow to enrich the fuel mixtures, so there should have been no need to replace chip for a different turbo? Sounds like the new chip has poor boost control. Try the old chip and see what happens

Tune as lean as the car will happily run on light and off throttle, its only as it starts to boost it will kill the engine if too lean. Depending on heads and cams, some subi engine setups will run as lean as 20:1 If you have an adjustable computer normally lean off in cruise until the engine stutters or starts to loose power and requires more throttle aplication, then add a little bit of fuel back into tune. If the car has badly efficient heads or cams then the mixture will need to be fairly rich, and you sometime find "by leaning out" you actually use more gas as the car requires more aggresive driving or more throttle to cruise along at a given speed. A larger turbo always helps if your after economy as it allows the spool up to be higher than the cruising rpm where std ones will quite often surge in and out as they try to make boost.

just remember mild steel will flake with the heat of a turbo setup. The factory manifold is stainless

yeah the booze for work trades always good, I started running into problems though when i was asking for tens and twentys off....

One of the easiest mods especially if you dont have budgets for turbo changes, or other expensive mods. My exhaust stuff has cnc machines stainless flanges so maybe a bit pricier than the mate down the road that will make you a mild steel set up. Wont have a chance to make any until ive moved shops but be under $400 i hope

The rally cars are using dash 8 lines (c-spec coolers), and the factory c spec kit is a nice setup and tidy. Definately dont go mounting it in the wheel arch, less chance having an issue when fitted in front of the radiator. On a road car definately spend the money and go to a thermostatic controlled oil cooler or you will do the engine more damage than good running to cool/thick oil. Mocal do a nice item, or the factory one is also controlled. Oil temps on a modified road car with go down and also engine temp will drop if not using the std heat exchanger. On anything performance get rid of the roadcar heat exchanger, just give yourself an xtra 5 min to warm the car up in. If you go to a large dash 10 or 12 line, considered the volume/weight that you are now asking the std pump to move An engine will normally run 20deg C hotter oil temps than water, so maybe think if you really need a cooler set up. Some more useless information for you is that oil temps actually do need to be hot enough to help evapourate off fuel residue and contaminates. If your on an ethanol fuel a higher temp will actually be an advantage and will stop your engine "making oil" and breaking down the oil properties from fuel residue.

yes this is the torque for all the EJ20 engines. 35ft/lbs for the large main bolts, and 18ft/lbs for the perimeter bolts. Also when assembling only very lightly nip 2 bolts up and with a good dead blow hammer give the crank a solid tap on both ends (lengthways) to get the thrust brgs to line up

Are you meaning the pre WRC 98 car? The 4 door gc8 twin roof vent group A?