titian

Its electrical :o :o :o :

sensor for fans on engine side controlled by computer.Check voltage output to fans when hot. either no power or fans U/S. Fan on left runs with AC only if AC is operational. diagnostic connectors will not tell you. ??? if you are not loosing fluid its just electrical.Thermostat will be ok. This may help you ;)

Spray for all heat exchangers http://www.evolutionmotorsports.co.nz/TSD/TSD.html?gclid=CJun_dvm5LUCFUlcpQodRyoALg Clever stuff! :-\ :-\

Have had one break behind the mid support bearing. One of those with a CV type connection units in lieu of a proper universal. Alls it did was fly around and bash the underbody a bit. Was held up by the diff lead in cover DAMNED noisey!!!! But never even looked like digging in, as the broken shaft could not even hit the tarmac.! Was doing a hundy too! just getting onto throttle as i departed a corner. Hoops? Why? I have no idea what the LTSA has in mind. ??? ??? This car was not even over powered, just standard. Tis just red tape balderdash that they can throw at you to make themselves feel good i reckon : :

I guess entering into the 2nd deal with the builder was not the best thing to do Should have addressed the original fault first and insisted on having the seals done. By having agreed to more work you must pay for it. With no written warranty on the engine build this could be tricky to sort out Its turning into he said"blah blah" :-\ :-\ and then he said Blah,blah,blah" ??? ??? Looking forward to seeing the defence side :-X

If you send Dwight a pm from this site with your number he may get back to you. I do know he is busy engine building at the mo. Rally season starts in april.

You could get dwight to tune it He the best there is with the subaru ;)

Try this its cheaper. Works well too ;D http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,35443.0.html

Nb Garys dyno correction factor for Crank power is not accurate either. Hasnt been for years!

Top chart in 4th (Gary Capper) Other chart in 3rd. Therefore difference. Also Are they both Power runs? or Check tune? ??? Also time taken to "run up" can give these differences. Both charts reveal good power though. What is your concern? Is your bumo meter detecting a difference? Sometimes thats also a better indication of performance.Usually better than a dyno! ;D

will get the boy to replace and try, Cheers Bud how it all going up there these days Damn good!..Beat my mate at the hillclimb the other day up north...Blew the pre turbo gasket out.All good though. good s***, how that wagon of yours going the bf, let me know if you going to sell it as it was the day I saw it , beautiful looking motor that one LOL.It not for sale :D ;D The Mrs likes it too much. With only 40,000km on it it will be around for some time. Happy to build ya a motor though?.....BF5 only one to own! ;D

will get the boy to replace and try, Cheers Bud how it all going up there these days Damn good!..Beat my mate at the hillclimb the other day up north...Blew the pre turbo gasket out.All good though.

Easy to get 250 or 260 on 440 injectors Just increase the FPR a bit Say around 60 psi (4Bar)

What was ambient temp when dyno was done?..It is very hot around the country now with lowish humidity. This can cause percieved low power due to less dense air in our current Highs of around 1020 to 1030 Mbar. Maybe? ???

Could be my favourite one Brian Bloody knock sensor pulling the timing ???. You dont always get the CEL 8) http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,33060.msg443830.html#msg443830

yep all good with o2 relocation.

Best gains to be had in preturbo equalised extraction. ;) Down pipe also assists Esp with divorced type/style. However the divorced pipe benefits even more if it is up sized from where the waste gate returns to it Go up to 65mm from this point! extend all the way as straight as possible, use a 65mm muffler too...You may also need a mid resonator to reduce cruise speed drone. It will pass Wof no prob and will produce a nice sound on WOT. Ordinary driving will not even turn heads ;) Or bother the coppers! (sleepa car trick)

Looking at the pics and hearing what you say about wheel rotation. It is an open diff. Does the RH stub have two splines? All LSD diffs have a two spline stub on drivers side. Look through the centre as well. You should see a smaller spline apprx midway if it is LSD. Visco LSD has a smaller internal spline than the plated type. Both LSD have the two spline setup as part of the CV "Cup" Name N shame The seller!

Scottspeed knows all about this trickery Using a simple program you can utilise steering input,G load and wheel speed to give you a "race" style VDC. Sensors are required for rear diff,front wheels,steering angle,Gload.(It can be managed by a G4 or Motec too) Unlike std VDC that reduces throttle and applies brakes this system holds the brake(s) on for the inside front/rear wheel(s) when cornering. Which is further adjusted by G load and throttle opening. It then loads or unloads the centre diff as required. If you have a V7 or above with dial up DCCD and airbags,Abs the sensors/computer are present. Dwight can load a program that then allows you to dial up various programs for each setting of the DCCD wheel. When you are happy with one of the programs he can then create another program that allows fine tuning of the program that you selected to further the ability of the DCCD system that will further match your driving style. He has been doing this for Emma Gilmour,Chris West,Richard Mason,Dave Thexton for a few years now. ;) Old school WRC Subaru Prodrive stuff. :D

If you have a G4 you do not need ICV ...Coolant through throttle is primarily for cold/freezing enviroments Also Why re heat the air you have just cooled? With the ol possum link im not sure if you can tune around the lack of ICV ??? Someone here will know no doubt.

If you do a split rail fuel system there will be enough room under the manifold for inlet. Use a twin turbo manifold if you change it. Plenty of room then, you can also fit a bigger intercooler as well. as the throttle body moves forward.

LOL...Was going to say earlier Jam a bit of 4x2 between radiator top and alternator to achieve re alignment Works every time. See this post ;) ;D http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,34576.0.html

Yep either that or the Knock sensor Both can partially fail and not throw a code. ???

Yep. Steel pins and aluminium housings + water Equals freeze together Rost off then drive a wedge between the housings at the strongest point on each side then from side to side with a spacer to hold the gap opposite to the side being wedged. Eventually :) :) Ya! success will be achieved. Usually the first occasion of removal when this occurs.

All comes down to bit rate, and control span/accuracy of required parameters needed to accomplish perfect balance. :D doing an "autotune" on any computer is a good way to get a starting point.