Steveo

Yeah I\'ve got my eyes on that HKS system at the moment, also is the process of getting Zenolli rotors and pads at the moment.

Cheers man, might give them a bell. Not to stressed about spending a bit of money the whole do it once do it right thing.

Cheers Boon, Any suggestions, on where to get a aftermarket down-pipe cat from? Get a bit lost looking online as I know twin scroll models are different. Dacerx - Yeah I would if I could get it, closest station with it is 2 hour drive away which is annoying for anyone in this area.

Had the car for over a week now and extremely happy with it, and doesn\'t apear to knock on 95 which is a bonus. Will be looking at getting a tune done next time I\'m in CHCH as I don\'t really think theres anyone confident down here. Any suggestions on whats the best mods to do engine wise, would there be much of a gain over the factory stuff running say a HKS exhaust system and better intake? Any suggestions on whats the best intake to run? Or are you better off running stock airbox and intake with say K&N panel filter. Done a bit of research and it appears they are near the limit of the stock twin scroll turbo, and fuel system. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thats kinda what I was hoping the answers would be, if it\'s simply tuning for lower octane fuel and a few minor things thats what I was wanting to hear. Kinda brought it as it was to good a deal to pass up, and really like the body style or that age WRX, Cheers guys.

Sorry version 8 model, goes extremely well and very happy with it just wondering what the differences are. I know the Jap ones are normally tuned for the higher octane gas. So that part doesn\'t worry me as can only get 95 down here unfortunatly, would love to be running it on 98 but the closest place is a couple hours away.

Hey guys, I\'ve had a quick look around for some information but haven\'t had much luck. I\'d been looking for a V8/V9 WRX STI for quite some time. And ended up finding one locally with only 58,000km at a good price and in extremely good condition. Can someone please tell me what the differences are between the NZ model and the Jap Import version. Are they down in power at all? I know this one has tuned length extractors so no Subaru rumble, this one also has 6 speed box and adjustable diff. Also whats the best bang for buck mods to do, happy with how it is stock but like anything the bug will bite after a while. Cheers

If they are anything like the 2000 Legacy tiptronic boxes, once fixed sell it as they all seem to all have issues. Flatmate had a RSK Legacy B4 that he brought private after 10,000km or so of ownership gearbox stuffed out similar issue sensor or valve body. Managed to track down a good 2nd hand one with a 3 month warrenty, 4 months later same issue happend. Ended up selling the car as is for like 3 grand in the end he was that sick of it (paid 12k for the car with around 80,000kms on it). Maybe the later boxes were better but doesn\'t sound very hopefull.

Agree with what everyone else is saying, offer a better product and better service, there is no point getting into a price war. There is always someone willing to under cut but 9/10 its a worse product and they will end up coming back to you. Word of mouth on a quality product, and great customer service works much better (can be difficult using trademe though for this). A friend makes picnic tables and sell\'s them locally more expensive than Mitre 10 etc, but much better constructed and designed. And he sells 1-2 a week (it\'s only a top up for him though) as he\'s a full time builder. I work in the motorbike industry, and we were trying to compete with some online retailers but all we ended up doing was hurting our bottom dollar, or selling a average product. So instead we are focusing on better service and product knowledge, and stocking a large range so you can come in and actually try on a product (always better to see in the flesh and try on gear). And the customers normally happy to pay maybe $10-$40 dollars more than they might be able to hunt out on the likes of BTO Sports, and wait weeks to arrive and then potentally have ordered the wrong size, and have no backup if somethings wrong with the product. Sorry I\'ve ended up a bit off topic, but hopefully you get the gist of it.

You\'d be surprised, just spread all round thats all

Whatever you do, do not take any covers off I haven\'t done this myself but have seen what happens when you do : just has to be at the right angle to unwind I remeber in my Repco days selling seat belts they come in 90/90 straight up and down 80/90 10 degree offset 70/90 and so on.

This thread is quite interesting, I have a 2000 BH5 Subaru Legacy E-Tune, unsure if that makes it s Rev-D or earlier than that. Running stock airbox, aftermarket exhaust, Walbro fuel pump (factory one crapped out), and not long replaced the AFM. Unfortunatly can only run on 95 down here as the closest 98 is a couple hours away and a no detonation issues.

Just a bit of an update on the similar issues I was having with my car, was the AFM in the end and a genuine replacement was less than $200. Not to sure why the one you priced genuine was so much more expensive, maybe they change quite a bit through the years.

How safe is it to drive with the AFM unplugged, mines quiet inconsistant normally not at idle but though the revs a bit. Any other options to test it? Would take it to a Subaru place but it\'s over a hour away and I work though the week.

Sorry to hijack the thread, I have a similar problem in my 2000 Subaru Legacy E-Tune same thing won\'t throw any fault codes, runs rough on start-up and has hesitation issues also. Talked to the local garage, and they told me a dodgy AFM won\'t though codes? Is this correct?

My car happily runs on 5w30 no engine noise or anything, but has done less than 20,000k\'s on a rebuild on a plus 100,000k\'s car I would step up to a 10w40 but only if it was using oil. It\'s a tricky one everyone has there own opinion on oil types and thickness etc. On a side note, I\'ve seen magnatec do some strange things to Subaru motors. Had a car that was getting serviced by Subaru running 5w30 and the owner changed it to Magantec pretty much straight after the service started to burn oil really bad. Ended up getting the motor stripped down and the bores were all glazed up. Could have been something completely unrelated, but the motor didn\'t have high k\'s, and wasn\'t over-heated or anything like that.

Could be unrelated but is it a shudder or more slip, mate had similar issue in his evo 7 turns out the garage he took it to re-used the old fly wheel and had it skimmed even though it had hot spots and a slight warp (he would have been more than happy for pay for a new flywheel). So the car had a bad shudder, and on the garages advice he was told just to drive it and it would bed in. Long story short it toasted the new clutch kit and after MTA getting involved the garage had to pay for a new clutch kit and flywheel. And according to some clutch specialists flywheels should never be skimmed, only ever ground.

I run 5w30 Castrol Edge, no issue serviced every 5,000km. Perfer it due to the Sub-Zero temperatures over winter. Some people will agrue its a bit on the thin side, but never had any issues in saying that is quite a fresh motor.

Replaced tappet cover gaskets/spark plugs, tidied up engine bay wiring.

Sorry if this has been covered before, I did a quick seach and didn't really find much info. I recently brought a 2000 Subaru Legacy Wagon for quite a resonable price, as it was completely rebuilt and the young fulla who owned it couldn't really afford to insure it. The only complaint I have with it as its got a huge rear muffler, and I want to stay on speaking terms with the neighbours and my flatmates. As much as I like the Subaru rumble it's slightly on the exsessive side (or maybe I'm just getting old). Does anyone have any suggestions on a muffler brand, and a good size to go for without being to exsessive but keeping the Subaru note? Any help will be appreciated.

There's a bit more to getting into the MTA than just that, I know a couple workshops that cannot become MTA assured for love nor money and they are a damn sight better than some of the MTA assured one in this area. I would most definatly lodge a claim with MTA with whats happend, as it's definatly not on and they will do all the ground work for you. In theory you'll get your car back in a much better condition, and more than likely they will lose there MTA membership. Sometimes even threatening to take it to MTA will work (been down that track with a car yard before and was well and truely compensated). Garages will do everything they can to keep there MTA membership as it means they can do warrenty repairs/and alot of companys won't take there cars to non-MTA assured garages.

Get it to have a decent snow and I'll be back in Qtown, was up a couple weeks ago and coronet was pretty icey and not a lot of snow.

Definatly get it checked, could be something minor or could be airflow meter, or coils. How many k's has it done? As long as you keep it well serviced and look after it they arn't a bad car the VOD can be a bit annoying at time but comes as part of the package really.

Keep an eye out for a Blue Legacy Wagon, we'll be up coronet on Friday atempting to snowboard haven't been for a couple years

Sorry kinda bringing up a old post, I'm not from Dunners but from Gore but close enough Always floating round Southland somewhere with Moto-x and Trail Rides. Name: Steveo Car: 2000 Subaru Legacy E-tune (wanted a WRX but needed a station wagon) Might have to make the best of both worlds sooner or later. Cell: (027) 3537378 Email: [email protected] [email protected] On a side note, I noticed the IT jobs discussion my flat mate owns a IT business in Gore and is looking at expanding and taking on a staff member as he has to much work on. PM me if anyone's looking for a IT job (with experience).