Subirex Automotive

under the glove box area there should be another set of plug (not sure of color) should be beside the green ones. connect it and turn ignition to on and than off after few seconds. disconnect and recheck again. that should clear the codes. i have always used subaru select monitor so havent actually done this. this is what is written in the service manual so m just reading and relaying it to you. dont think you can actually pull out code though because the engine code normally start with P on these newer models i.e P0031, P0036 etc etc.

no black plugs on bp legacy\'s. green one located behind right hand kick penal and test mode connector located under lower portion of glove box

looks like you have tried all possible things to rectify the fault, now go back to basics. remove the h/t lead thats not firing (while one end attached to the coil), and poke a thin screw driver on the other side, put screw driver about 2mm above the earth and crank engine, if the spark shows than your coil and leads are o.k. second check your compression. third check your timing.

bring the key to me and i will reprogram the central locking for free.

this is from workshop manual for 2002 bh/be 1) Warm the area around the mirror holder with a hair drier until the edges of the mirror holder become soft (about 2 or 3 minutes with a 1,000 W drier.) 2) Use a flat-bladed screwdriver without sharp edges to lift the mirror out of the mirror holder. (Also remove the connector from the back of mirrors with heaters.) 3) Warm the area around the mirror holder with a hair drier until the edges of the mirror holder become soft (about 2 or 3 minutes with a 1,000 W drier.) 4) Remove the backing of the new two-sided tape, and push the mirror in to install it. CAUTION: Unless the mirror holder is warmed sufficiently, the mirror holder edges may be damaged or the mirror cracked.

sounds like your cat converter is partially block or melted due to excessive fuel being pumped through the engine when it was misfiring. check you cat first.

try ebay i have all the tools for the cam gears, could have lend it to you but you are far away from where i am.

sounds like a bad electrical conection

PM me i might have a genuine key with me. most 04 import outbacks have come with factory immobiliser and the only way to find out is the red flashing light in the cluster, which indicates it has factory immobiliser . when you call the dealers, NEVER speak to the service advisers regarding technical issues, they are dum and dont know shit. always speak to a senior tech in the workshop.

first you check if the crank sensor it secured properly, loose sensor can result in no or poor starting. if secured than pull it out and check for any damage to the sensor. if ok than get a ohm meter and check the resistance between two terminals. value should be between 1-4 kilo ohms.

putting ej20 is fine, i did this swap in my mates 94 impreza. remember you have to use the crank and cam timing sprocket from your old ej18 engine into the ej20 motor. the timing gear pickups for sensors are different on both engines, this will send wrong signal to the ecu and there will be no spark. you dont need to change the ecu. also it will be wise to use ej20 injectors, or the engine will have rough idle.

by the way your throttle position sensor is a little low on voltage (0.42v) put it to 0.50v and you will have better throttle and turbo response.

this happened to my 98gtb. driving at 50kms, steady throttle and the cars starts to stutter. repalced my front O2 sensor and ran sweet after that.

check the knock sensor, doesnt always show fault codes but it can retard the engine on load and cuts fuel out.

turn the ignition to on position and listen carefully if the fuel pump is pumping. it will make a whirring noise for few seconds and cut off. the noise will come from under the rear seat. if no sound than your fuel pump is kaput . pull the seat out and try to give a good hard smack on the fuel pump carrier, it MIGHT kick start the pump. had this problem in my bg few years ago, it started but i did replace my pump. check your crank sensor as well.

vf38 comes in autos from 03-05, tdo4 comes in manuals from 03-05. 06-09 bp and bl legacys use vf44 turbo. you can get the rebuilt kit from ebay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/IHI-RHF5-RHF5H-SUBARU-VF38-VF40-Turbo-Rebuild-Kit-/160624026711?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2565f02457&_uhb=1 and the wheel from ebay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbine-Wheel-SUBARU-Legacy-Liberty-GT-2-0L-IHI-RHF5H-VF38-VF40-Turbocharger-/181027716918?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a2617bf36&_uhb=1#ht_1716wt_699 you will need to get your turbo balanced after repairs.

unplug the green connector, its for dealer check diagnosis only. for manual code retrieval connect two black plug near the steering column, beside the obd plug. then turn the ignition to on.

SORTED good luck with the car now :) :) :) :)

do some research mate on this valve. this valve can cause engine stall, sagging and hesitation on acceleration.

it a purge control solenoid valve. turbos wont work properly if disconnected.

when you replaced the engine, did you use crank sprocket and cam pulleys from your old engine or from the new one? if the new one is there than it would be worth swapping it with your old ones. some crank and cam pulleys have different marks for cam and crank sensors and will not be compatible with the ecu that is in the car.

what will happen when your idlers, tensioner and waterpump gives up in 20,000 kms? you will end up paying same labor again. the workshop should have advised you to change it when the work was done.

green air flow meters comes in few legacys turbo as well as non turbos. the part number is all same. if a wrong air flow meter is fitted than your engine light will come on. the best will be to call your subaru dealer and get the right part number with chassis