Andy_Mac

Good on ya. Got the software side sorted yet?

I'm sure if you ask fortyone nicely he can source a set for you

Haha the beauty of jap cars is there is never a readable manual. Tried online with no luck either. Seems like something there should be an easy dolution for. its called get a mans trannsmission haha. But setiously never knew ignition was actually required to change gears in auto.

Dumb question time. Is there any way of locking the boot on a 4th gen wagon when there is no power. Was charging the battery the other night and thought id leave it there overnight, went to just lock the car manually and realised there was no obvious way to do the boot without central locking.

Ptpixel has swifts on his and it sounds like he's pretty happy with them.

Once you're under there looking at things it really isn't as bad as you think it'd be. Is it a post facelift one or pre? Only difference between the two will be different types of diff drain bolts for r180 and r160 diffs, volume of oil needed. And for gearbox, haven't been under a 5mt in a while so can't remember if they have two gearbox drain points or not. 6mt have two with one of them needing an annoying t70 torx bit for your socket set and the other just a standard socket bit. Also go to super cheap and get a small funnel with a small opening, TWO of their big funnels with the long necks and cut the funnel part off one and attach it to the other one, definitely the easiest way to get down to the silly little gearbox filling hole. Fills through dipstick hole btw, hence needed the real small funnel aswell. I didn't worry about torquing any bolts, probably should have. Gearbox and engine are fine but the diff thread just felt a bit softer and easier the wreck than the others so don't go cranking the hell out of that one. Can chuck some pics up if you want any more detail.

Interesting. Mines a December 06 registration, so possibly MY07 then, my understanding of car year logic was that the MY always ran from late in the previous calendar year rather than after it had started. Suppose leftover stock will in fact sit there until sold so anythings possible. There's mine anyway The real question here is what the heck are the specs on the vf44. It's hard enough finding anything usefull even for the vf45. Though chances are it's the same turbo with some very minor tweaks that were enough to justify a model change.

Been a while since I looked into this issue but do 3rd gens have them/have issues with them? I know people made a big deal about them killing the journal bearing turbo's that came in most 4th gens, and they do tend to block up quite easily but never hear any of those warnings for 3rd's strangely, different design? Tried to do mine but there was that much **** in the way around them I spent hours trying, gave up, and had a f you car beer, or was that a box, yea that was probably the whole box.

I can give you a hand if you think you need it but my knowledge is probably only a slight step above yours haha

Have done rear diff, engine and gearbox in my BP5. Not a clue on brakes or power steering though, never done them on any car i've had so not much help if you wanna do them. Diff and gearbox are pretty easy though.

What gen is the leggy? Also manual or auto?

Dumb question time. Is there any way of locking the boot on a 4th gen wagon when there is no power. Was charging the battery the other night and thought id leave it there overnight, went to just lock the car manually and realised there was no obvious way to do the boot without central locking.

Teach me how to not take crap as hell photo's cos that looks bloody amazing

Honestly man it seriously only takes 2mins or so. Would be interesting to know if the auto's are in fact vf45 aswell.

^^ sounds right for pulling up hills but doesn't quite account for it doing the same thing during casual cruises aswell though joker. What does it do if you do a hard pull on the flat up to say 6000rpm

Not if the revs are below the changeover point

Vf45 in mine. Is yours the same?

Neodowd is yours a jap import firstly? Not sure if nz spec went facelift 06 or 07 Na checking it is a piece of cake. Just had another look now, just have to remove the engine cover then its on the compressor on the passenger side Comp housing Thats the hole you wanna poke your head into And there's the sucker hidden down there, pretty vertical to where you look hence needing the mirror. Or just chuck the phone down there and take a few snaps and hope one comes out clearly.

Id always stay away from chief purely because, why risk it? Not sure about supercheap/repco branded ones but i've always been told ryco ones are an adequite replacemnet for oem ones.

@subirex Oohh, haven't heard about your one before. What kind of power are you making with that?

If you haven't had it tuned yet start there, well worth the effort. Auto subaru's tend to be detuned for auto's regardless of whether the turbo's are smaller or not. Never heard talk of the td04's being better than the vf45's, Also be wary when people talk about the td04's as the stocks ones are a 19t but there is an almost identical 20t drop in turbo which is getting more popular to give slightly more power. Is yours a spec b or gt? Real easy to get the model off the turbo with these. Looking straight down on the compressor side it should be on the side of there, really small mirror helped reading mine.

are the s401 plates actually dimensionally different or the same just with a bracket welded on like it looks in that pic on the first page?

If you're paying $400 for a tactrix openport cable you're getting majorly ripped. Mine was around 250nzd direct from the tactrix site and came within a week of the order date. http://www.tactrix.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=17&category_id=6&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53 If you just want a tune for a stock car you really can't go wrong with e-tuning, truck load cheaper than a dyno one and just as reliable with the right tuner. Need to have alright computer abilities but all the walkthrough's are pretty damn good and guys on here or other forums can walk you through the steps if you get stuck. Check out Cryotune on lgt.com and kido on Liberty.asn.au Both get very positive results.

They stop bad stuff from happening......

Personally I'd try get a tune rather than the controller, only reason I got the controller back when I had a 3rd gen was because the older revisions at the time couldn't be tuned. Still far less than ideal. Not sure of any Auckland tuners that'll do it but I'm sure someone from the area will know more.