Andy_Mac

Clean as hell. First gold one i've seen that wasn't an outback

As above, I've got an extremely annoying crackle from the stereo. Never does it when stationary, only when moving Have pulled the headunit out and redone all the cable joins behind it I could see. Did find one sus as join that was just twisted with a little bit of tape holding it all together but didn't make things any better even with it done properly. Made sure aerial cable is tightly mounted and no visible damage from kinks, also tried running the system with the band expander removed which made zero difference aswell. So I've run out of ideas short of somehow jimmying up some kind of temp aerial to see if that crackles too. Doubt it would be a fault in the headunit but have no way of checking that option until I can decide on a replacement. Any ideas on what else could be checked?? On a side note looking at some double din replacement head units, does anyone have any experience with kenwood? From what I've been reading they are getting right up there with the other top brands these days and not just cheap crap. Still leaning towards alpine though considering their successful older units. Loosely tossing up between these two http://www.qualitycaraudio.co.nz/index.php?route=product/product&path=73&product_id=6042&sort=p.price&order=DESC http://www.qualitycaraudio.co.nz/index.php?route=product/product&path=73&product_id=4814&sort=p.price&order=DESC

Mine still had one but it was stuck open. Didn't cause any issues other than taking a truck load longer to warm up from cold

Probably a dumb question i should know the answer to.. Looking at some speakers, got 125w at a weird 2.7 ohm impedance. Should they just be wired up as you normally would, no bridging or anything to get differing impedances? Got an existing infinity amp that does 100w at 4 ohm. Will the amp just give whatever the speakers need? Never had to sus out speakers that were anything other than 4 ohms, subs yea but they seem to be more convential impedances ):

Yea basically. Doing a full bushing overhaul will tighten everything up nicely too

Fuel pump won't be good for anything unless the existing one is struggling which if stock it won't. Get an etune from raijin and just leave it performance wise. Handling mods would be well worth it though My '00 had just sti pink springs and it felt a hell of a lot more controlled in the corners compared to the new one

And the time spent productively online, Oh wait I mean time wasted online (;

Or wait for this beast to be properly supported in nz. http://www.defi-shop.com/products/smart_adp_w/summary_smart_adp_w/ Quite tempted to get one myself and then just get the extra needed sensors since i've already got the advance unit

Yea should be just a matter of hooking up the cable with the ignition to 'on' and opening romraider. Whether it wants to do any more or not it'll always show the two numbers down the bottom right. If you get that chuck them on here and we can have a look through the program to see what else you need. Having a bit of a walk through the steps in person with kwi_fozze is probably the most beneficial for you if problem solving computer/program issues isn't really your thing.

Gave her a polish and added a much needed CS sticker

What did you put when it asked what type of ecu/vehicle you have? With mine i chose what i thought was the obvious choice but it turned out it wasn't. It needed to be the subaru can option. Edit: that vehicle type stuff is for exuflash not romraider or learning view. There will definately be a way to make it work!! Without the correct definition file romraider won't be able to do anything. Have you made sure your ecu model code is in the romraider definition file. With that i also had to go try find the file as it wasn't in the standard definition file. When you connect to the car in romraider down the bottom right hand side does it have you ecu number? Should be a number similar to this A2UG00K (my one) should show cal id and ecu id. If you can get those it'd make finding the definition file you need much easier. Romraider should show this whether you have the correct definitions or not. Everything you need will be on the romraider forum but it is a bit of a mess to be honest.

Yea learning view is helpful but pretty limited, needed for tuners to get a idea of your engimes health though. Will only ever tell you what general changes the ecu has made to keep the engine happy. It'll be interesting to see whether your intake has caused it to make any changes. Romraider is the good one for logging and then open the log file in virtualdyno to see what everything is doing more clearly. Even 2nd gear pulls will tell you quite a bit, and keeps it mostly legal on public roads (;

What dowpipe did you end up getting?? Pickings are pretty slim for the twinscrolls aye. Was looking round for a while but didn't really find any that weren't horrendously priced jap ones other than the subtech. What program is that? Nothing to really say about it yet. Only got the base map so far which shouldn't really be driven hard on, basically his first guess at the tune. Need to send him a 15min casual/typical driving log before the first power revision is done. Yea definitely needed for the turbo back, you'd probably see some pretty big boost spikes without it.

The legacy 'boxes' are the same but what's inside isn't. Different ratios, no dccd but seem to keep the strength of the sti ones. You would probably struggle to find a 6 speed legacy that low though unless it had huge k's as they only went 6 speed from 2006 onwards and had to be the spec.b model. 17-18k will get you a nice one though. Definitely worth considering!

A few have done cryotunes now. Everyone that gets them seems happy enough if you look through his vendor profile on legacygt.com My stage 1 tune should be done in a few weeks Some say the way he does it without an aftermarket wideband isn't quite as reliable but really your choice with regards to that. With your situation having some mods already and tracking it from time to time it'd be worth looking into getting the subtech downpipe to maximise what you can get from the stock twinscroll before doing this, if funds allow of course. Obviously you would need to buy a tactrix cable, think it was around $200 plus shipping for mine. And download the needed free software. Tactrix website tells you all you need. Have a quick Squizz through the first page or two of my garage thread, ptpixel(has stage 2 cryotune) was helping me sus out some of the software and the logging needed to get things going. Once you have it all running as it should it's basically a walk in the park

Car has a noise that sounds almost like metal on metal grinding when coming off throttle. Regardless of type of driving, and seems to do it the whole way through the rev range, notice mainly down low since the engine's obviously alot quieter. Notice it mainly in 1st and 2nd gear. Dissapears when clutch is put in too. So wouldn't say its engine related. Been looking on nasioc and similar sounding issues have appeared there. They seem to think its lightweight flywheels/ over lightened machined stock ones. Does that sound about right or just a load of uneducated chatter?

Na no longer running the mcintosh sub. Basically I just kept everything in place but cut the wires off the sub and extended them, then ran them to the rca converter which then feeds the Rockford amp. I have Rockford P2 12" with a Rockford R1200-1D amp wired to 1ohm, sits in the boot in a standard audio shop kind of sub box. Have a look over at the audio section at Liberty.asn.au quite a few of the guys over there have done swaps with much more powerful 8" subs in the stock spots for a cleaner look, think some even run it off the mcintosh amp too. Could always do that using the rca converter and an amp under the boot floor somewhere for a more powerful one. EDIT: looks like you would definitely need a slim sub in the factory position which will end up costing more for the sub. Regardless would need something like this, make sure it just has a single left and right output, not the multiple outputs rca outputs like the door speaker converters would have http://www.qualitycaraudio.co.nz/index.php?route=product/product&path=176_183&product_id=3014 Then could do something like this, will probably find a cheaper system if you spent more time looking around for other options. http://www.qualitycaraudio.co.nz/index.php?route=product/product&path=192_204&product_id=4771 http://www.qualitycaraudio.co.nz/index.php?route=product/product&path=150_195&product_id=1187 Plus obviously an amp wiring kit and you time installing the whole thing. I enjoy it but others think it's pure hell. The costs start to add up real quick, at which point you probably think F*** it I'll just get a replacement mcintosh one...

Sweet, might just give the multitrack a go then

Yea was wanting syntrax but couldn't find it in any bigger than 1L, might try repco tomorrow and see if they do the bigger containers

I know the engine oil needs changing so I figured doing the other two at the same time since there is no record of when they were last done. These are what I'm looking at at this point, very open to suggestions. Engine http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/online-store/products/Castrol-Edge-Engine-Oil-5W-30-5-Litre.aspx?pid=299206#Cross Probably overkill but want to do things right with this car. Gearbox http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/online-store/products/Castrol-Multitrax-Transaxle-Manual-Transmission-Fluid-4-Litre.aspx?pid=1276&menuFrom=60202#Cross Rear diff Thinking the same as gearbox unless there is something better to use?

Don't know about the speakers, weren't they 8 ohm? but this is what my sub one has written on the back, facelift jdm wagon. You'd find it pretty hard to find a replacement sub that worked well with such low power from the amp. Pretty easy to pull them out to check which one yours is. Easiest way is to pull up the corner of the boot floor and then give the sub cover a good yank and it'll come off, then it's just a matter of removing the screws. Also not using mine either if gotasuby's isn't the right one. For what it's worth though I'd replace it with something better. Just put a Rockford sub/amp in mine and used a hi/low level rca converter so still uses the mcintosh amp and then goes through the Rockford one. Sounds a million times better than the underpowered mcintosh ever did. Could use rca converters for all the door speakers going to an aftermarket amp (still using mcintosh one too) as well but would be a pretty messy setup and don't know what the quality is like for rca converters when used for the higher frequency side of things.

Unless a 6 speed sti/newer legacy box can be squeezed into your budget. Absolutely love the 6er compared to the old 5 speed

Installed some LED parker's and LED fogs from a guy over on liberty.asn.au Makes a world of difference not having horrible yellow parkers ruining the look when the lights are on.

Depends if you're wanting to do it on a cheap budget or go for something a little 'better' DBA make some pretty nice rotors. Thinking of going for them myself once I work out whether mine are rooted or not.

Anyone know if there is any noticable difference between dynamat and soundstream deathmat? Dynamat $310 Deathmat $240 And deathmat is actually 0.018" thicker Obviously more and better opinions with dynamat but is it all just in peoples heads?