Andy_Mac

Should be able to make 160-190wkw if it's a manual depending on what dyno is used. The stock intercooler will be the piece that holds you back as it runs out of ability pretty quickly. The fuel system should be alright but a pump upgrade is always a good idea as the factory ones can start to degrade deepending on Km’s

Yea with a turbo back, turbo inlet and 3-port boost control solenoid and a tune you'll be just about maxing out how fast you can get it to respond.

Ahh yep. That's way too expensive though aye. If you get it tuned you should be able to get the tuner to supply and install an identical valve with a different plug for 150-200 max. Intake doesn't gain much besides noise. Turbo inlet can help a bit though.

Keep the stock uppipe for sure. There aren't really any aftermarket options readily available, maybe something from Japan but that would be mega bucks. The factory ECU is more than capable for most builds so you will be fine to keep it. What do you mean by coob tuning boost controller? Are you meaning a cobb accessport?

Second pic works but not the first. BE/BH coilovers fit from memory but need different top hats for the front. That'll be all jap toll road stuff at a guess with it being in the top half of the glove box, the ECU is under a steel plate at the front of the passenger foot area.

Yea twinscroll uppipes are always catless. Some GR/GV STI stuff will work but not all. Pic isn't working for me. Are you wanting to know what aftermarket ECU will work with yours?

They're all pretty old at this point so the odd glitch kinda has to be expected. Have you looked at aliexpress ones? They have some pretty cool looking larger screen ones but dunno how much I trust electronics from there.

I had that too one time for some reason. I had to fully wipe it and start fresh, including reinstalling the Timur ROM.

Welcome. I've always used 5w30 Castrol Edge in mine. If you wait for sales you can easily pick up edge for the same price as magnatec. Repco currently has it on sale for $60 for 5L. Magnatec is usually semi synthetic too which isn't advised for these cars.

Probably best to ask in one of the 08-14 WRX/STI FB pages. The one I recently joined has a bunch of people talking about various versions every day.

Some pitchstop mounts seem to give buttloads of noise but others not. I've had Kein and Hardrace ones all with rubber bushes and really can't fault them for noise and vibrations. One's with poly bushes seem to give the most problems. If you plan on keeping the car and factory turbo i’d get a proper downpipe. They will have the potential to make a moderate amount more power down to the reduced restriction but the factory one decatted should definitely make it to your goal.

Add a but of extra hose to raise the height if you have any. It pouring out doesn't mean the pump is actually flowing anything

The trash dash really was a sour point for me, it probably was the biggest thing that convinced me to move on. Besides that I really rated the interior, mine was well specced with full leather and almost everything else which made it quite a nice place to be. The 4th gens are a much better base for modifications with a lot more parts available even with auto versions.

So did you try activate the pump without the lines on to make sure it is actually pumping?

Cool. Should be alright with the r400 then

@Greaver So the one you're getting is a GRB hatch rather than a GVB sedan right?

Ahh yours is a sedan. Imagine they don't get the boomy resonance the hatches get which I seriously hate about mine. I really like the noise in general just not this pressurised sub like feel at certain rpm’s

@Technikhaus how are you liking the r400?

-The stock ECU is more than capable for you intentions so no need to look elsewhere. -A downpipe will help but isn't exactly a necessity. Mine made 225wkw (300whp) with the stock one decatted. Almost all the auditory improvement will come from a catback. -A 3-port boost solenoid is always a worthwhile addition for the minimal cost. -Intake wise mine came with a K&N which I can't really fault besides how expensive it is, but they all seem that way these days. It definitely needed a tune though, MAF scaling was miles off.

Yea that was swapped a few weeks ago with the Kein one from the Legacy but possibly worth double checking it hasn't come loose again.

Swapped the Group N engine mounts, Kein trans mount and Hardrace trans crossmember bushes into the STI today to try solve the clunk that started last week. Passenger side factory mount was about a third torn so figured that was the issue but still getting a decent clunk that now feels more clunky and less sloppy. Its most noticeable when bumping on/off throttle when cruising so next thought is diff bushes, if not those then I'm a little stumped.

Damd do a baby G kit for these.

Pretty good price really. Any idea on feel with the ACS one? The Tiltons feel as soft and smooth as stock even when holding ridiculous power apparently

What are you expecting to pay for the ACS or Exedy multiplate? They can be horrendously expensive unless someone can get you a decent deal

That is a similar range to what I'm aiming for. Surely you’ll be 600+nm with a turbo that'll get you that much power? That exedy is probably the new version of what @Niran is selling. Apparently they commonly rattle quite a bit while not engaged. I'd tell you to go for a Tilton multiplate which is what mine will get once the new engine goes in but it is a bit more work so might not fit your timeline. Price is almost the same, sometimes better than the standard style multiplate clutches.