Andy_Mac

Cool. That was what I did at the steering column but for all I know I could have been using the wrong wires.

Yea see them from your image but not the originals. Lame iOS issue I assume. Edit: Scratch that, working now. Think it was cause I was on a hospital WiFi so they block some sharing sites. @Technikhaus Interested to see how you go. Tried to add the audio ones to mine the other day but It didn't quite go as planned. From my understanding the HU should have been able to work it out without a separate interpreter module but it didn't so still not sure if it was the wires I got wrong or whether it really did need the module. The remote wires came out of the roll connector but didn't make it as far as the HU as those slots are empty on the main audio connectors.

@Technikhaus Not sure if it's just me but those pics don't seem to work?

Personally i’m a fan of blanking plates. it’s hard to guarantee the solenoids are fully closed without them. You can get the blanks that sit between solenoids but keep them all in place which makes the process a little easier. Some shops think they can just turn everything off in the ECU and pull the fuse regardless of whether the solenoids are stuck open or closed which is pretty slack in my opinion. I’m going to be doing the delete on the new car shortly as a just cause i can exercise. Saves waiting for it to become an issue I reckon. They may have replaced the pump (big black part up front) as that is where the electrical concerns are but none of the solenoid parts

Whip the rear seat base off and the little cover on the drivers side and you'll be able to see the problem. When mine was leaking it would leak down in that exact spot as it is right below the pump cradle

Ask this guy if he still has the one's in this car. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/accessories/listing/2571871173

Stock is a TD04HLA Could be a Kinugawa one or something modified by Murch. You can replace it with the TD04HLA, VF44 or VF45. There are some minor differences in oil lines and other general fitment differences between the IHI and MHI turbo’s but no one really struggles to make them fit. You'll want to confirm what you currently have and that it still has the factory mounting design for the exhaust and compressor housings first or a factory one won't fit. And work out why the first one failed. Alot of people just put a new one in and have it fail a month later as they never solved the issue that caused the first to fail. @Hayks has a TD04HLA for sale.

Suppose you chucked the old lines with the restrictors?

You'll need to remove the entire upper fascia. It pops up if you pry it from the bottom edge. Be careful not to damage the dash as the material is super soft.

So the normal stereo works fine when that one is off correct? If so you could just unplug it and and install one of the other cubby styles in it's place.

It's instantly a very different beast to the Legacy. The shorter gears really help keep it alive.

So i did a thing today...

@Technikhaus rough. What's the plan for heads?

It can be done but isn't a simple thing. Think with ECUTEK you can but end up being stuck with one of their tuners. Or you can theoretically do it opensource. Assume being a ’05 it is prefacelift? This makes it easier as you have a 16bit ECU so you can kinda do it the same way @A_J_T did with his BE. It'll be a matter of merging an existing speed density ROM with yours as your one currently has all the specific table locations which will be different to an existing one. Facelift has a different method as it is a 32bit ECU that you wouldn't want to really tackle without being extremely clued up With computer programming as none of the JDM ECU’s have been done yet. An AFM with a 3” intake isn't all that terrible. There's some rule about putting it X many cm behind a bend with an inline flow straightener to get the most consistent results but I've got no idea what it is.

Leave it all plugged in but with bolts removed and lean the seat back against the rear seats and try operate the different buttons and you'll quickly see if anything isn't working

@boon yea broken welds is a likely culprit preventing the turning bar from actually engaging anything. Or the winding block (white piece in his last pic) can sometimes semi separate and just spin around.

Good job on the writeup. Had the same place fail on my old set. Meant one side would lift but the other not so much. I just drilled it out and rewelded it rather than bolting.

Thinking about that, wasn't there someone on here recently with some similar issues which turned out to be the alternator playing up?

There's no way going on the internet has ’bricked’ an OTG cable. Do you have auto updates on for apps or anything like that? Something updating when you went on the net is the only thing I can imagine that may cause a compatibility issue. Have you force rebooted the Nexus from powerevent manager? My phone was always used as a hotspot with bluetooth split so the phone could be connected for calls and the Nexus for music. With the Nexus connected to the net i’d just upload logs straight from BTSSM to Google drive for later viewing.

With that track record it sounds like it's more of a you problem than a Brembo problem 😂

Wrong fluid maybe. I know nothing about these auto’s but surely it would have to be either the torque converter slipping (unlikely since changing the fluid made things worse) or a failing clutch pack/blocked filter preventing it from applying the correct pressure. Do you get any warning lights on the dash? Worth getting the engine and trans computers checked to see if they have any fault codes present.

Reckon by the time a euro has hit 200+ all the stupid/typical electrical and mechanical issues have already happened and been dealt with by one of the previous owners 😅

PF Auto in Tauranga are the Subaru experts in the bay area. I always use them or DTech if I need something done I can't do myself. Not sure on who the best place in Rotorua would be but imagine there will be someone that fits this category well enough.

Ahh was wondering if you selling narsti meant you might be finally grabbing this.

Well if the barrel is hot you've got a short in that area somewhere that should be addressed before going any further. Rip all the covers off and see if you can see any arc/burn marks anywhere on plugs, contacts, or worn wiring