Andy_Mac

@Inked may have his old V7 STI turbo laying around still?

it was @boon that had mentioned it previously. Failing rectifier on the alternator allowing some AC voltage through which can screw up sensor readings I believe but will still look good in BTSSM.

Happy days, my Aus post order turned up today. Two weeks to travel from Aus to NZ then overnight from wherever it came in to my doorstep, good old Courierpost getting s*** sorted.

Just front and rear end links, rear sway bar brace and rear diff insert bushes. Frankly I don't think this car even needs thicker swaybars. It stays bloody flat as it is so can't think of much else to replace handling wise for now besides maybe rear camber arms. I went direct too, Didn't wanna take the risk that any other companies might use Aus post too.

A nice little box from Whiteline turned up today, they even chucked in some free gloves. Took about 5 days for this lot to arrive, still waiting for my other order with the last AN parts for the manifold that shipped using some express Aus post service that has now past two weeks in the system somewhere ?

Trying to decide on the best way to wire up the primary in-tank AEM 340lph pump and the surge tank Bosch 044 pump. I currently have full aftermarket power supply setup with circuit breaker, relay feeding into a fuelpro pump speed controller that I'm not sure what to use on. Options would be A) Leave the current factory speed controlled supply setup going to the in-tank pump which should be ok with the lower amp draw once it is running as a low-pressure circulation pump and hardwire the 044. B) Hardwire the in-tank pump and use the aftermarket speed control setup on the surge tank pump assuming they are happy with lower voltages. C)Hardwire both D) Factory speed control the in-tank pump with the factory setup and speed control the surge tank pump using the aftermarket system.

Could try get some of the panels off and see if there is any viable damage on one of the pcb’s but I can't imagine much will be resolvable at home. A replacement will probably run you about a hundred or you could use the chance to replace it with a aftermarket HU fascia. Something like this might work for yours. https://www.qualitycaraudio.co.nz/qca-sufa10-stereo-fascia-kit-for-subaru-legacy-outback-from-2003-to-2009-black-with-easy-payments-10221?search=Legacy&description=1

Don't think the AVCS stuff can do much until warm so could be to do with that not being able to hinder it as much as when warm maybe?? Wastegate spring is usually around 7psi so It should always be able to reach that unless timing is crazy retarded.

A lot of facelift ones seem to have most of them removed already, think dealers we're doing it early on when they realised the issues. Worth checking anyway. You can't get the one above the water pump as the timing cover prevents it fully coming out unless removed. The fuel pump is a bit of a pain. Replaced mine today. Just make sure you have a bunch of flatheads handy as they're the easiest way to prevent the clips on the lower part from clipping back in as you wiggle it off.

Wouldn't expect a blocked banjo bolt to be causing any of these issues. What about the fuel pump? It could be worth getting a cheap aftermarket fuel reg and gauge just so you can confirm that is all alright. Yea just flash it over. No different to flashingamy other ROM

Have you got the stock intake still? Those figures would indicate either you have a decent air leak, aftermarket intake or MAF/O2 sensor problem. 2 and 4 byte should give very similar data. The only downside to using 4 is it uses more data so if you use a few 4 byte parameters you’ll find the read speed will drop significantly so data points will slide further out of sync with each other He can tune it for you, you just need to flash a different ROM to the ECU first as it is the same one as mine. There is an 07 ROM available that worked perfectly for me once I finally got round to flashing it.

Yea that sounds pretty out there. Unless the FPR is internally jamming up and just the shock from you pulling it off and putting it back on temporarily loosens it up.

Or just leave it out and delete the code for cat inefficiency or whatever it throws up when it is disconnected, assuming you are in fact talking about the one down at the bottom half of the downpipe and not the one up near the turbo

RomRaider can be quite a pain to install and get working correctly but it really is what you need to be able to get a LV readout. What are you meaning by resitting it? Removing it and reinstalling? Gearbox on a manual won't be the cause at all.

Not sure whether it really matters or not, but the better way to do it is to just swap the BPV and FPR vacuum source locations rather than teeing. They're not the same size vac hose so not sure how it will go with the factory parts. Worked fine for mine with the aftermarket BPV and FPR though. Have you had it tuned? It could be that there is a learnt timing pull at that point that may be making things worse.

Nah no idea which one it was. Just post up the question in as many as you're part of. Or just try message An Lal / CCT directly in messenger.

Might be able to find someone with the knowledge elsewhere that can at least confirm whether this is the right track to be on. Think I saw a post a little while back on FB where An Lal (can't think of what his username is on here) said he could sort it out for someone who added the controls as we have done.

Even the dodgy Chinesey one that sites lists is still $299, assuming USD. Think a trip to a Subaru dealer for at least a discussion might be the best way to go.

@Technikhaus yea that's the same as my one. SSM3 looks to be able to install programmable modules which I reckon is what is missing. http://blog.obdii365.com/2019/06/26/freessm-vs-ssm-3-vs-ssm-4-subaru-select-monitor/

Don't think it'll be in the ROM though you could try. Most years only have one for manual transmissions anyway. What is the CAL ID for your ECU? Mine for some reason uses the 2012 one as there doesn't seem to be a 2010 or 2011 one available.

Did some more rrading about SSM3 and starting to think you might need the hardware/software to be able to turn this on.

No turning back from here, really hoping I haven't forgotten anything.

Depends how he has come up with that power figure really. Some tuning company providing a hardware/software calibration with no in car testing can be pretty good or pretty bad depending on how keen they are to bend the truth to sell their product. As much as most people dislike the idea I'm a big fan of Virtual Dyno. With the right data, and a lot of it, to feed into it it can be extremely accurate. It's a good way to get a consistent figure that can't be made to look better than it really is. We all know a dyno is the best way to get repeatable load for a repeatable figure but with no shop to shop consistency from calibration or aggressive correction factors used they stir up just as many issues.

I get the feeling the later ones won't really work with FreeSSM as they use the CAN connection to read from the ECU rather than serial as you've said. Can't imagine FreeSSM will show you anything the others won't be able to see?

Cheers. Might give that another go this arvo