Andy_Mac

Yeah not entirely sure on that. It isn't even really the 3rd gen since it became a standalone model which kind of came about with the VA chassis, with the GR still having the same basic body as the Impreza which just moved to a new body way earlier than the WRX/STI. Depending on how the sheetmetal is made behind it there is potential for quick swap moderate flares that actually match the body unlike 95% of current kits out there though.

As always it's a controversial look that splits people somewhat down the middle, with the majority seemingly disliking it initially but for the most part I quite like it. The front, side and interior are quite nice but the rear end lower plastic piece is a bit weird with the extra depth compared to the rest of the body. Some form of semi functional diffuser on the STI might make it look a bit nicer but I doubt they'll change anything. https://www.google.co.nz/amp/s/www.caranddriver.com/news/amp37281384/2022-subaru-wrx-specs-revealed/

How much smaller than the old ones?

My thinking was that mine isn't a fully build balanced engine so any help is a good thing

I've yet to see any real engine builder suggesting alloy ones over anything real though. I had been tossing back and forth between OEM and Fluidamper for mine but with the timing I just ended up using a new factory one. Unabomber’s manifesto mentions it isn't needed directly from Subaru America but back to back testing usually shows a very slightly smoother running engine when dyno testing which can't be a bad thing.

How free was the cable? Completely removed from the assembly or was it just the inner not attached? Some bent over wire might still have some luck before trying more destructive methods.

I also wondered if with the window switch cover removed and the screw behind it you might be able to wiggle your hand or something around enough to get hold of the cable and try pull it through the hole to pull the inner cable

Skip the lightweight one for sure. Only options on a decent engine should be a factory new one or a proper aftermarket one like ATI or Fluidamper.

Are both the inner and outer handles disabled? I did that in my Legacy with the inner disabled but the outer one could still work.

Getting hold of a reasonably low KM used GRB W20 long block from a car like mine or Gripless’s isn't a terrible idea. You can split it and check over wear points and replace as needed or just keep it as is and probably get 50++kkm from it.

Made a spur of the moment decision to outdo last year's lockdown attempt and do a dodgy driveway engine and turbo swap this time round.

Yours will have the spherical bearing ones from stock won't it? Earlier ones that are still rubber are easy enough to hack apart and the hacksaw the sleeve but not 100% sure with these.

Shouldn't be that hard. I got the pair for $30 from Jeremy at Subidoo. I just had the challenge of finding a car at his that still had them haha

Yea I like that look way more. Keeps everything way up tighter to the car than a massive cannon. Surely you can make it work again somehow.

I had a big job adding a piece of plastic from a Legacy in the STI’s engine bay. As expected it fits just the same on the GR/GV chassis, unfortunately the Legacy battery cover doesn't quite fit the same as the support behind the lights is about 5-10mm further forward so none of the front points line up. I might still cut it slightly to fit but it’ll probably bug me not being a perfect fit.

There's a few spots where there ‘may’ be banjo filters but most of the later year vehicles either didn't come with them or removed back in Japan but still very worth confirming if they're there or not. This sums up the locations quite well but is single scroll based so clearances around the turbo side will be different. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/remove-all-banjo-filters-222758.html A replacement 45 won't need a retune, a 44 really won't need one either as they seem to make identical power for every car I've seen with the swap. The 44/45 pair weren't trans based the way the older ones were and are more particular year's. My old one had the 45 but most guys I've seem seem to have the 44 in 6mt’s I haven't actually tried to check for oil flow with a push button but I guess the same applies as normal with removing the crank angle sensor or pump fuse and cranking until oil does or doesn't come out the feed line.

I suppose that bumper cutout doesn't really support dual tips all that well. Something like Niran has done on his but only on one side with a big Adrenalin resonator/muffler and twin tips straight off it suits older cars quite well and is a bit less in your face big.

How does one of those compare to a similar priced earlier gen R? I feel like i’d always want the R for the all wheel drive even if it's a more front biased setup compared to Subaru’s

Nice. My red start stop buttons like yours turned up yesterday so I'll have a go with them tonight.

I think it's more down to the position of the lever point on the shifter assembly as the rod isn't adjustable to make up for the changes in the throw geometry caused by reducing/increasing the spacing between those two points. Maybe it doglegs a bit to make up for the shorter vertical distance, I don't really know as it's not something I've really bothered looking into too much. The top half adjustment like the Cobb has will have zero effect along with others that shorten the length above centre point The bottom half shortening can have the same effect as someone always leaning firmly on the shifter in theory.

Tony has always been against aftermarket ones. Supposedly the different positioning can cause them to not sit quite right and wreck synchro's or something like that. Could be that that is only the case with the more extreme models but it was enough to deter me from taking that route.

I did whiteline poly steering rack bushes which for some reason wore out and had heaps of play well within a year so went back to stock ones. Poly and solid engine mounts are pretty horrible for noise and vibrations so i’d recommend against them for anything except a race/monster power street car. The swaybar bushes will need regressing quite often to avoid squeaking I've found and their squeak free ones with a furry inner wears out pretty quick so not that helpful either. Whiteine adjustable end links aren't a bad option either, keeps away from poly ones so need no maintenance but are still classed as heavier duty than the stock ones. I've done group N engine, large trans and trans cushion bushes and am super happy with them after trying Kein shackle style rubber bush mounts that were rather loud and harsh.

Flickr is my go to for photo hosting. It's yet to let me down and doesn't seem to get flagged and blocked by some browsers and workplace filters that a few alternatives do. The current forum also auto embeds photo’s so you just need to copy the URL on the host site to here and it does all the rest on it's own. Yeah you can sign up for a paid subscription that gives you ad free scrolling in the store.

Installed a CTEK battery sense bluetooth module and MXS 5.0 charger. The module is a nice little item for those of us with only occasionally used vehicles that aren't properly garaged to allow for long term use of the battery maintainer setup but still at close range for it to ping a phone occasionally. Straight off the bat it was sitting at 30% as expected from the difficulty starting the last few times so hopefully the chargers recond feature should be able to bring this most of the way back.

I've finally committed to EL for mine. I'd been tossing up using Niran’s old headers but grabbed a set of EL headers with the same uppipe location to replace the old UEL ones he was running. It's just a more mature sound that doesn't attract the same attention as usual boxer sound.