Andy_Mac

Yea that black box is prt of it. Seems alright, nothing out there priced any better at this point

Can't go wrong with regal blue either Its just an air pump that pushes additional air into the exhaust on startup to heat the downpipe catalytic converter faster. They do have a tendancy to get noisy and fail though, hugely expensive to replace but there are cheap solutions for that if it does occur, not something worth worrying about though. But it means the uppipe cat is no longer needed which is a positive.

Just saw that on one of the aussie FB pages. You should join the SIIU (Subaru internet integrity unit) page, lot of **** ramblings but there's some pretty classic crimes there

Weird, would have thought they would have gone with twin for that age

That grille certainly does look alot better with the chrome surround blacked out

Good to hear, as long as they're all the same size they don't really have much of a case saying thats what stuffed it. Were the axles replaced aswell? Probably a dumb question you won't know the answer to but is there any way of them slipping a r160 in there as a replacement or will that not match up to the driveshaft?

Manual transmission? Have you put your finger in the new and old oil? There's no way of confusing coolant and oil by touch, viscosity is hugely different between the two.

Are JDM SH5 Forester XT's single or twin scroll? Having zero luck finding any info on them.

Ah yes, hadn't thought of using a plastic breadboard. Just need to make sure it is 10mm or under, according to US chaps atleast, 3/8inch is the thickest you can go before needing longer studs.

Haha definately not cardboard and duct tape. If you can get hold of some HDPE its pretty easy ay, not too hard to mark out the shape then drill where you need to

http://www.paranoidfabrications.com/shop/category/saggy-butt-spacers/ Quite a few peeps seem to just make them themselves

+1 could be anything based on the description in the first post Seems to be some part of japanparts.com thats not used anymore

They're pretty reliable cars most of the time. They have the secondary air pump so don't need to worry about a cat in the up pipe anymore since its no longer there. As with all cars, just get a properly done pre purchase check and they'll inform you of any issues. Cambelt is the obvious one to check for. Centre diffs are one thing thats starting to become more apparent, typically closer to 150k but i'm fairly sure mines starting to do it at 130k. They're not completely grenading themselves but the viscous fluid breaks down so they start to clunk. If you get to test drive it just find a carpark/wide street and do some full lock turns. You got a link to it?

Pretty sure old McDoof had atleast one of his wheels acid dipped when he did the refresh on the stock ones, might pay to shoot him a PM Edit: there it is http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?47605-How-to-refurbish-your-wheels-the-hard-way

Wonder what diff they ordered, could end up with the torsen from the 08 if you're lucky

Meant you should have discussed with them before doing any modifications. Except for the decat and tune I had all my modifications cleared with mine before doing them. Shouldn't be something that happened regardless, mine had the driver seatbelt fail within the first month, there's no way they didn't know about that. Rear diff/diff fluid isn't really something that would get checked often during a service and considering the way WOF's are done they probably wouldn't be straining the LSD operation either.

Thats super ****. But you should have really discussed it with them first. Do you have the warranty contract? What does it specifically say about modifications? This is why I always do a full fluid service whenever I get a new car just for peace of mind knowing everything is up to spec

Man that sucks, **** time of year and haven't even had it that long. Atleast the mechanical warranty has you sorted. Id be just taking it straight to their approved mechanic and not worrying too much. Unless of course they just suggest some ****ty bargain basement mechanic, then i'd be pushing for a Subaru specialist one.

Bastard, still only got two of mine. Any pics of how its sitting?

But like alfie, i'm almost completely certain you need/needed the basic clock. I haven't yet seen an import one that has had the clock with the trip meter function. The clock is just a clock, nothing more. Explains why the other features didn't work in your case

Bummer. You fork out the $5 each, or whatever it was to get free puncture repairs/replacement for the life of the tyre?

Na his is post facelift

Shhhh *****es super coolers are a myth eh. The tuner i've used did just happen to reply to an eamil about a WTA setup he'd just done. Its just so damn hard to decide between that or a front mount. A setup through pro wholesale will be a fair bit cheaper hopefully, well before custom alloy welding at least

In theory, removing the negative doesn't do F all in terms of resetting the ecu the way it does with older subaru's, need to use a laptop and cable to properly reset it. You have a boost gauge on it?

Or is yours a jap one that would have come with the basic clock if it hadn't had the nav