If in any doubt at all. Always quality work and discounts for CS members. PM Ajay with any questions or for a quote::
http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?/topic/48694-subirex-automotive-limited/
Whiteline bars through evowrx:
http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?/topic/44326-whiteline-barsalk-northland/
Whiteline 99GF8 22mm adjustable part number BSR20XZ:
http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=BSR20XZ&sq=23369
Whiteline BSR20XZ installation guide:
http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/install_guides/Z320.pdf
If you have the tools and you're keen to give it a go:
Nothing wrong with using a scissor jack, just slower that's all. But as GC8E2DD said, scissor jacks aren't as stable or strong as trolley jacks so best to lift one corner at a time. Rear left, then rear right. As long as it's on flat hard ground and you never put your body under the vehicle until it is sitting securely on axle stands (spare rims/blocks of wood).
When jacking a car to work under it's always best to chock the wheels that are staying on the ground, even with the car in gear and the handbrake on. Chock the wheels with a big rock or lump of wood, something that will stop the ground wheels rolling if anything goes wrong. For example an all wheel drive car with open differentials in gear with the handbrake on and the rear wheels being lifted off the ground for a swaybar swap, if the jack fails or tips over the car can still roll forwards or backwards.
Nothing wrong with using spare wheels as axle stands. As GC8E2DD said, jack the car up and slide the spare rims under the cars back wheels, then lower the car so it's sitting up on the rims. With both rear wheels level there is no tension on the swaybar and ARB links. Plus technically all suspension bushes and suspension links should always be tightened or torqued up with the vehicle suspension sitting at normal ride height. Not only for new part alignment and clearance checking, but for the suspension bushes to function as intended. A lot of suspension bushes these days are solid or made as one piece and do not have rotating parts. When the suspension articulates the rubbery section of the bush twists causing tension, then when the suspension goes back to normal ride height the bush goes back to neutral twist/neutral tension.
Not so critical with ball joint type rotating sway bar links. But picture a rigid type ARB link (anti roll bar link) with fixed solid bushes top and bottom. If torqued up with the suspension at full droop and then the vehicle is lowered to normal ride height. The fixed ARB link bushes will either tear apart and no longer be fixed, or twist and be under constant tension. Effecting both suspension movement (twist tension causing lift) and swaybar tension/behaviour (now favouring downward suspension movement and more resistant to upward suspension movement), plus it also shortens the life of the bushes.