jost

Try a flush and a refill with genuine oil, may be some crap in the spider gears??? Otherwise i\'d say get hold of a phase 1 (Pre 98) rear end and some gaskets and swap them over. No point replacing it with the original type as it will just fail again in future. cheapest way is to get hold of a box with another issue, pull the rear end off it and scrap the rest, I got my last one from a STi for $100.

On the pre facelift the balasts for the hids is a different shape to the facelift so it takes a bit of metal bending to get a good fit, the bit that sticks up beside the headlights on the bumper of a REV D is a different height to the earlier type, so the bits on the front edge of the bonnet are also a different length, Also the REV D headlights are actually wider than the earlier ones so if you fit later bonnet and bumper to earlier car you will have a gap but the other way around it just won\'t fit right. so basically to make it fit right and look good you will need the following: Headlights (Park/corner lamps are different so will need to change wiring to suit Bonnet Bumper So hack off an arm and go for it.

Yeah that\'s a good price if they do a good job, basically it\'s hard to find a cheap painter, if you get a good job done stay friendly with them as you may need them to do more painting in future and most painters would be charging $500.

Yep will swap straight over, the clear ones usually sell for many times more than the standard red ones, I have a pair of good standard tail lights for $20 each if interested

If you get stuck i have a remote setup here, complete other than the bracket that holds the reservoir $40 + post

If the car has been worked on i have seen the vacuum hose put on backwards and causes the booster to pressurise.

First thing to do would be change the thermostat, if the bottom hose is cold it means it\'s not opening, Unfortunately the only ones that will work are Genuine ones, Stupidly expensive here but i import mine from the middle east for bugger all (see link below, I usually buy a few things to keep shipping cost down) https://partsouq.com/en/search/search?q=21200aa072 I have a tester but am in chch otherwise would come have a look for you. Another option is to remove the thermostat, cut the guts out so you still have a metal ring with gasket and stick it back in, then see if it still overheats, if yes then definately HGF but if it doesn\'t replace the thermostat and take it from there.

Replaced front bilsteins on the BH with low km ones, new front rotors, pads, rack ends, lower ball joints, and fitted alloy lower arms. Still way more to go though.

The 16 flashes is a centre diff issue, most likely a failed solenoid, easiest to either locate a good known replacement auto or do a manual swap, You will have to pull the intercooler/downpipe to confirm turbo failure, i\'ve seen quite a few with the exhaust wheel sitting on top of the catalytic converter, What part of the county are you in?

Also another important step is to get the entire rotating assembly including crank pulley and flywheel balanced, increases the reliability long term.

Germany is your friend, I rebuilt a rolled 22b which now lives in OZ, everything came from Germany, Seems they did a bit of track testing over there and the cars never left the country. An the parts are cheap (for 22b bits anyway)

Also if your O2 sensor is buggered it will dump in the fuel

sounds like the thrust bearing isn\'t located in the pressure plate, may have to pull it apart again.

I usually pull the ignitor plug and turn it over, cracks it fist time.

Also there are 2 different oil pump drive pulleys, they randomly change them, the only way to find out is to check to see if it\'s the same, You should be getting a CEL, if you have spark and fuel but it just not starting i\'d suspect Cam or Crank sensors.

You need to remove the seat back and then you will be able to lift the parcel tray off (Carefully)

Also buy generic from BNT, Just as original but 1/2 the price. Change crank seal and waterpump at the same time.

3m make an adhesive remover, any auto paint place will have it or similar, removes it easily

I\'ve had good luck and bad luck with scanners, Some work some don\'t, the easiest i have found was a bluetooth one off ebay, connects to your phone and allows you to check and clear codes and monitor data while driving, cost about $20 i think.

They will bolt straight on. I recently repaired a facelift one with frontal damage and being cheap i used pre facelift bits.

I think i still have a fan around of you need one? $100 delivered

Aftermarket gaskets are fine, just get heads skimmed and torque to factory specs. I have rebuilt 50+ motors using ebay gasket sets and have not had one failure.

Just give up on it and swap it out for a know good one, It pays to change internal filter while you have it out.

Also only EVER use genuine thermostats, don\'t but anything else, you will just be wasting your money. Genuine ones are the only ones that work properly, I have replaced quite a few that are less than a week old and not working properly.

You really need to get it scanned when cold to see what the output is, Or you can just replace the sensor and see if it fixes it, It\'s the one with 2 wires that is on the pipe that runs to the top radiator hose.