spark_38

I thought the 8650 had triple 5V pre-outs, if it is the model with the EL display... being the near top-model in the consumer series, after which is the 9650... then the P-80RS, P-80RSII which are the competition units. P.S. wrong section...lol

Yeah i generally use about a tank a week... about 50-60L Which BP in town is the road master? Don't they have a supply of ultimate in Miramar branch too? that's where i picked up my first wagon and i'm sure i filled it there too....several years ago now. I too am getting my link tuned next week.... hmmm to run 96 or 98 is the question Wonder how long Mobil will keep their 8000 for

Yip Welli/Lower Hutt has been out for most of the last two weeks... I put some mobil in last night and all seems well so far... since i'm using braided fuel hose you get the fuel smell in the engine bay in any case

spark_38 ... member since 2000 ... so over 8 years! http://www.trademe.co.nz/Members/Listings.aspx?member=19458

Car: 1998 Impreza WRX STi Type-R Suspension: King superlows on stock V5 STi shocks Mags: Direzza wheels diamater: 17" Wheels width: 7.5" Offset: +46 Tyres spec: Sportsmaxx 215/40/17 did you have to roll the gaurds?: N

I thought i'd take a few photos since i've assisted in the changing of fuel pumps about 4 times this week... start with the back seats out if its a sedan or coupe Tools required: No.2 philips screwdriver 6mm blade screwdriver long nosed pliers 8mm socket, 1/4" is best side cutters, butt crimp terminals, crimping tool cable ties Step 1. Locate factory fuel pump location, usually in the boot drivers side. Remove the cover by taking out the 4 philips No.2 screws Step 2. Use the long nose pliers to remove the clips holding the hoses on and push them aside, the fuel feed line is usually a clip-lock fitting; use pliers to hold clip and wedge with flat screwdriver. Use the screwdriver to wedge the plug clip and unplug also Step 3. Remove the 8mm bolts being careful not to drop them. Lift the pump out adn tilt it slightly to the side so the level float does not get caught Step 4. Take complete assembly and work outside. It is a good idea to use the metal cover over the tank to stop dust getting in. Use pliers and move clips aside and slide off stock pump - the aftermarket ones fit on in the same manner. For the Ver 3/4 WRX and earlier models with the fatter style pump you need to cut the wires and crimp them to the aftermarket pump. Ver 5/6 WRX and above the factory plug fits straight into a Walbro pump (not sure if other pumps are the same, but Walbro seem a popular aftermarket choice). Use cable ties to hold the wiring in place and stop it rubbing against the sharp edges of the mounting bracket. I used a large cable tie at the base as wel to hold in place as the stock rubber bung was too big. Here is a picture of size comparison between the stock V3/4 pump and the aftermarket one: Step 5. Drop the pump back in. Put the 8mm bolts in first and then the hoses and clips, the feed line should lock in place with a click - give it a few pulls to ensure a tight fit (the earlier models V1/2 use a scew type hose clip for this - and the feed line is the middle one). Make sure it's plugged in and put the cover back on... and seats back in

ahhh just remembered... i worked on a mates 1990 gt legacy... subaru changed to a single plug loom 1993 onwards, so prior to that 1989-1992 they used the two plug system with the power and speakers separated... i think the colour coding was very different too! Post up ur wire colours... personally i would standardize the colour coding i.e. Black for ground Yellow for +12V Red for Acc Blue for Antenna Blue/white for Amp remote wire Orange/white for dimmer White for front left speaker Grey for front right speaker Green for rear left speaker Purple for rear right speaker Thats' what i did to my mates car anyway which had the plug chopped... i just soldered the above cables on used heatshrink and terminated with bullet terminals - it makes changing headunits a breeze too!

Colours are - and function: Thick black - Ground Thick Yellow/Red strip - Acc white/yellow strip - illumination thin black - illumination gnd Blue/red stripe - +12V constant White - auto antenna Speakers: Front (L): (+)brown/white, (-)green Front ®: (+)red/yellow, (-)white/black Rear ®: (+)blue/green, (-)red/white Rear (L): (+)white/red, (-)red/black NB: colour coding is known to change slightly even in the similar year models, the above is a general indication from a Ver 2 wrx loom i have sitting around...i've found the speaker wires to be generally consistent so that's a starting point.

oh the factory keyless locking in a legacy? so the key stopped working... it may be a flat battery in the remote... from memory i think it's a CR-1616 if it's the key with the lock and unlock buttons, if it's only got the one button it may be a CR-2025 battery which is common, but only places like jaycar stock the first type. unfortunately i'm not familiar with that system... but someone here mite be able to shed some light

as in the alarm remote for the locking? what sort of alarm is it? i deal mainly with dynatron and they are fairly simple to do... i.e. about 30s or so - my mate was quite surprised

Hey all, Thought i'd get the ball rolling... I have been doing audio installs for over 6 years now... anything from headunits, speakers, subs, amps... possibly even car alarms too Prefer to stick to factory installs... anything custom requiring fiberglassing or speaker pods, etc... i'm sure the right ppl will introduce themselves