Stoffa

what was done with your "mods"? if the turbo has been off its probably the oil return, they have crappy hose clamps and the bottom one often needs replacing with a proper one as the hose hardens over time. that would have oil running everywhere

Yep and I love it, and even better my speedo is only 2km out when it was 10km out at 100km also it sits at 3200 at 100km when it was 3500 rpm

215 45 17\'s and 330mm front and rear, already feels nicer to drive

Dont bother it wont do anything, a sway bar works by keeping one side the same as the other. If both wheels are at the same droop there will never be much tension. by adjusting them youll only adjust where the sway bar sits

I know the car, its been living in a Aotea for the last few years where it was garaged when not being used and owned by a guy in his 30\'s, it is pretty rough from the outside, I guess it must be new owners that have it now, the last time I saw it was about 2 months ago. Those wheel are hideous in person, I would get it checked out at armstrongs subaru in lower hutt, they actually have a few switched on subie mechanics in the hutt branch

RHDJapan.com do sensors are are great to deal with

Stretch boots fir the win

If you want to diy pull the arm off and take it to a mechanics to press in/out

Ray Heartley in haining street, central city, they took over maclennans customers

I water blast my rims every 2 weeks as the TS2000 do get a little bit of build up but not that bad

Ts2000\'s are great on the street too. they work well cold and if you really stomp on them they pull up well

Ive got ferodo ts2000, got them from racebrakes.

I used them on my car, no difference at all but both of my rear subframes were hard mounted. but they did pull the subframe very straight. perfectly even rear alignment on a factory setup. Much easier using them rather than swapping subframes

that was the point you muppet, if you google free castor mod you get 6.4 million hits

you could try Club Auto, they\'re modified friendly

i put it in brackets so it made it easier to search http://www.google.co.nz/#hl=en&safe=vss&q=free+castor+mod&nfpr=1&sa=X&ei=Rm49UY3XG-m1ygHGlIDgBQ&ved=0CCsQvgUoAQ&bav=on.2,or.r_qf.&fp=2d569884cc9fa46b&biw=1270&bih=789 all RA\'s and Type R\'s (maybe sti\'s) rear sub frames dont have rubber bushes mounting it to the chassis rails on the 4 main bolts, they have steel bushes making them "hard mounted" (and noisey). As for Spec C sub frame the front one has extra bracing (check my for sale thread pics) the rear one is the same geometry as any v7-10, which is better than a v1-6 as the diff sits higher and the holes for the lateral arms mount higher.

are you going to drive it like you stole it? otherwise not worth the effort IMO

v1-4 old style v5-6 new style (hard to find adjustable gears) v7+ new style (with more cam timing marks and have to be used with V7+ crank trigger wheel and cam and crank sensors if used on v5/6)

the forester ones do look like the same amount of castor as whiteline ones, but if your doing it on the cheap just use the v5 ones and flip the bar on your arms for the "free castor mod"

Must be entertaining watching you trying to get into a caged rx7. Looks good though

Funny thing is I didnt take any, I was too busy bitching about the messy asian fruit truck guys and was really crap at getting pics. Hopefully its better organised next year

There was a Pastel blue e30 with chromies on you may have liked

im sure it probably will, but I was talking about zero toe, my setup runs over 5 degrees castor

but then all the NZPC guys couldn\'t get on the piss at R\'s Garage afterwards cos\' they have to get back to work the next morning