IZichard
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Posts posted by IZichard
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5 minutes ago, harleyrabbison said:
Thanks guys, iZichard it ll definitely be a weekend car, currently trying to find a good RA - drove a normal version 3 at autospot yesterday, and it was pretty impressive for a 25 year old car!
RAs seem pretty hard to find though, and japanese prices are climbing....
Good luck on the search! They won’t be getting cheaper anytime soon, especially with the Americans/Aussies getting more rights to import them.
This may be of use to you as it can tell you the specifics of each version, it’s weight, options, colours and which turbo, engine and transmission it was fitted with.
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Personally I have always felt that the interior in the v4,5,6 is a huge improvement over the older cars. I also think they have a better looking front end with the updated scoop/grills on the bonnet. The engine layout is also more similar to the more modern wrx/stis with the turbo inlet pipe running under the intake manifold. That is just my opinion.
Mostly it is just personal preference between the versions as it is fundementally the same chassis with minor revisions.
Be careful when buying to check for developing rust around the front/rear windscreen, the boot and around the rear wheel arch area. Many of the imports have come front rusty areas of japan and can be vunerable in these areas.
Are you buying it to drive it and put ks on it or as more of a weekend/collector? There are heaps of different options (ra, v-limited, 555) if you want something a little more ‘special.’
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1 hour ago, Ruya said:
In the market for a Subaru and found a nice clean example, however its crossed 180,xxx KM so its been pretty used, I believe it is all stock and the owner has serviced it regularly including full cambelt kit replacement including brand new water pump, belt, idlers, tensioners,bearings,seals (this was done very recently, few months ago). Its been daily driven as well and been in how ownership for 4 years, with his friend having it for 5 years
Welcome to the forum!
Is it a bugeye? I’ve heard of unmodified bugeye wrxs comfortably doing 300k it really depends on the previous owners.
If it is warmed up, run on the correct fuel, serviced regularly and not thrashed at every traffic light the ej205 turbo is reliable. There are a few small maintainable items that Subaru’s require over time but they really don’t ‘break down’ often in stock form. (Rocker cover gaskets, timing belts etc)
If there are signs it has been previously modified poorly, (ie. boost tap, podfilter) then I would steer clear.
If like you said the previous owners had it for 4 and 5 years and they have service history then I would say it is a fairly safe buy. Always worth getting it checked over by a Subaru specialist mechanic before buying if you don’t know what to look for yourself.
Good luck!
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7 minutes ago, sobanoodle said:
What would you need a remote start for? In NZ at least.
I’ve also considered getting one. Just to defrost the car in winter without having to go outside. Also means you can have the car warming up in the driveway without the risk of someone getting in and driving away with it.
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There aren’t many new Subaru owners on this forum unfortunately, so I doubt you will find anyone who has.
You are probably best taking it back to the dealer since it will most likely be under warranty for that type of issue.
If if you want to investigate yourself then I would start by checking the fuses if it shows no sign of getting power.
Best of luck with it
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Looks like this vehicle was found recently, was also being used to commit other crimes. 😒
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6 minutes ago, Joker said:
Body roll
that's the way I like it!cant be long till we see a shot of it 3 wheeling
I swear I saw you rip a cheeky handbrake on turn in at one point!
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Do you have the sheet with all the times from the grasskhana @Joker? I’m curious what the times from individual runs turned out to be.
Also to add to Jokers previous post...
Cam won the Grasskhana and the Kelford Cams voucher.
And I came 3rd (or maybe second?) and scored a whiteline voucher 😁
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Here is a link to an small album I made to show the difference in quality between GMB and genuine subaru water pumps. The impeller design is less efficient on the GMB and the overall casting quality is much worse.
I alway go with genuine timing gear.
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28 minutes ago, Individualities said:
It is called an Anti Lift Kit for a reason 😉
Edit: “Whiteline Anti Lift Kits are primarily designed to improve traction and cornering grip under power. By increasing static caster and improving front end geometry the new alloy mounts coupled with low compliance synthetic elastomer bushings serve to dramatically sharpen initial turn-in response and reduce understeer.”
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1 hour ago, Subru said:
Was looking around and saw that the subframe was jammed hard up against the Anti lift kit and part of the bush so I unbolted the four rear 14mm bolts on subframe (2 on each side) and it dropped down about about 2mm below body. I knew this would be the noise so I put a decent washer in between the subframe and body and re tightened the subframe 14mm bolts, drove 50m down road and boom its fixed. The noise drove me crazy so im so happy I got it fixed. Weird no one else has had this issue...
You can see below its touching ALK and Bush.
After I installed washer you can see there is a gap now.
In the kit there is supposed to be a series of spacers that moves that U brace down and allows clearance. Maybe you were given the kit for a GC/GF that wouldn’t include the spacers.
You can see one of the spacers on the left of this picture, there are supposed to be 6 or 8 in total.
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38 minutes ago, Subru said:
The front bush is factory bush.
I did re tighten it just now and still squeaked a bunch when pulling out of garage and around driveway. Was a lot worse on passenger side which was the side with the bent mount . Btw I did reverse the nut and bolt direction (on both arms) so the nut is at the front of the car and bolt is rear because it made installing the arms a lot easier. I doubt this would make any difference tho.
Is it possible I didnt tighten the ALK enough? I did the 2 bolts holding it to body with a short breaker bar as tight as I could while lying down but only had big adjustable crescent for the one big bolt.
The torque spec for the big nut is fairly high iirc. Should say in the ALK box what the recommended torque is. If you have a helper available you should get them to bounce the car while you listen underneath. Then at least you can be sure which point is the source of the noise.
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2 minutes ago, Subru said:
uhh I tightened the front LCA bush with wheels hanging but the rear ALK I did on the ground...
Should I just loosen the front bush and tighten back up on ground or do I need to re tighten the Rear ALK bush too? I hope I dont need to remove subframe again lol...
You should only need to do the front bush if you already did the ALK. Drive the car up onto some blocks, crack the two front bolts loose. Then bounce the front of the car up and down a couple times and re-tighten, should be sweet.
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1 hour ago, Subru said:
Yeah I did that just 30 mins ago lol. Helped it a little however I will see tomorrow as its worse when its cold and in the morning for some reason, drove me mad this morning but on my way home it was not too bad...
Did you tighten the lower control arm bolts when the car was at normal ride height? If you didn't I would say that the small front bush in the LCA is likely the cause of the squeak. If you torque it while the wheels are hanging the bush will be under tension when LCA moves back to ride height.
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10 minutes ago, Subru said:
Why do I get the impression you think watching someone eat maccas is a waste of time?
But yeah I will probably look at that corgiwerx product if you like it.
Im also in the hunt for a rear shifter bush that doesn't cost me another kidney.
I was mainly just using the Wadsworth constant.
I didn't get a short shifter or anything, just the harder shift linkage bushes to replace my very worn out bushes.
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I purchased one that had been welded just with a couple of tacks on the swing arm at the top. That one was easily saved.
When it has been welded around the flapper at the bottom I personally don’t think it could be removed easily. You would probably be better off getting an unmodified turbo.
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24 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:
Yea that piece exactly. Can't believe you made me watch that video though. Wish I could get the 11mins of my life back...
I saw they were at maccas and skipped the first 4 minutes yet I still left with the same feeling haha.
I am also on the hunt for a short shifter for the 6-speed that doesn’t cost an arm and a leg. I purchased some shift bushes from Corgiwerx recently, I haven’t put the gearbox back in yet to try them out but the guy is super helpful and easy to deal with.
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21 minutes ago, RaKid said:
Just a moral support comment that I've used very frequently to keep me going in times like this. 'If it was easy, everyone would do it.' Very few people modify cars, so keep going and stick at it.
Yeah sometimes you just reach that point where nothing seems like it’s working, you’ve been at it for way longer than you expected. Then you smash you knuckles on a sharp bit, they start bleeding everywhere and you feel at rock bottom. There is a great sense of satisfaction that comes from knowing that your blood, sweat and tears are why the car looks/drives the way it does, but in the moment it sometimes doesn’t feel like it is worth it.
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The ALK moves the rear mount point of the LCA so it is definitely a lot more difficult to get the bolts to line up than the factory setup. I'm guessing the beefier front bush is making your life harder. The subframe being bent seems the most unlikely situation so i'm just going to assume it isn't.
Try it in this order, put the front inner bolt on the LCA half in (not all the way through the subframe). Then lean on the LCA hard with a bar so you can line up and get the two bolts for the ALK in (keep the big nut on the ALK loose to make this easier). Then you will have to get the front LCA bolt the rest of the way through the other side of the subframe, this will probably also require some kind of hard leaning with a bar on the LCA or the bolt and some light taps with a hammer (soft blow).
If it fit with the stock arm then it will fit with the ALK too, it will probably just take a bunch of effort to line it up. If you think the subframe is bent you could try the other side first.
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28 minutes ago, Individualities said:
Just note - if you want to be fully legal, lowering springs are ok, but if going super low, will need a cert (extra $500ish). Coilovers out of the box need a cert.
From memory, with lowering springs, if its a % lower than stock, it needs a cert.
Yeah that isn't a thing.
https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/LVVTA_LVV_Cert_Threshold.pdf
End of page 9 and start of page 10.
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8 hours ago, Inked said:
Hi All,
Have spoken to the team at Playday and they mentioned that driver briefing is at 9.15am and we have a small form to fill in before this. They said if we are there by 8.30am would be helpful.
I was thinking we could meet at Plimmerton Weigh station around 6.30am and leave no later than 7am. That way we are all ready to jump on the motorway and head straight up.
Would this suit everyone and if so who is coming along?
How long would it take to drive from city centre-ish to there? I see it is a wee way out of the city
Not sure if i'm going to try and make this or have a normal amount of sleep since I'm not getting out on the track.
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Basically what @calebwrx said you need the little cone piece.
5 hours ago, Subru said:Just did this. They are the exact same size as my wagon ones... althought they still had about 20mm adjustment for more toe. I might just leave em on and take to alignment shop and say if he needs to change them ill have to swap them out.
I called it 😛
Yeah that shorter front LCA bush is for the earlier models. I have slowly learned to double and triple check parts since things are always wrong
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19 minutes ago, thewabbit1 said:
I have one but it is at work. I could check it tomorrow if needed, but they aren’t connected to anything and my car has always worked fine so I don’t think they are particularly important.
My guess is some test/flash wire for the Subaru factory. They were taped up out of the way inside the factory loom tape.
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Is there a second black plug dangling under there? I’m guessing it is the other half of the black ecu reset plug.
Edit: Just checked on my v6, the two black wires were tied up with factory tape. I pulled them out so you can see. They have pins on them but they aren’t the normal, diagnostic/reset plug wires so I’m not sure their exact purpose. Not supposed to connect to anything by the looks of it though.
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GC8 STIs - which one to buy
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted · Edited by IZichard
Can't comment on that one sorry, I've never driven a DCCD box before. Maybe @GC8E2DD or @YoungOne could shed some light.