soopersubaru

yes probably the alternator. Also a good check is to look for AC voltage with the multimeter. If there is any voltage over 1/2 (half) a volt AC then its a dead one! Had a similar issue last year... Cheeeeepy,Chinese one...Lasted just over 8000k...GRRRR 36V ac detected!!!

No, there will be some cut and solder work to be done. But I\'d rather change a couple of wires in the footwell instead of fecking around with the manifold swap. Ok....Here is what i did. Used the engine loom for a 91 installed on the V7 manifold/engine.Single bolt ignition coils fitted. Then the only wiring alteration was for the TPS. (it moves the other way,plug is different to) Also removed the idle control from the throttle body. Installed a link G4 plug in. This allowed easy retune as required and also negated the idle control requirement. Simple as that. Does that clarify "how too"?

So the V7 engine loom will be ok connected to the 91 rs loom? ,And the V7 ecu will plug into the 91 loom as well?...Was not aware that this could be done.

You should be able to do this straight swap without messing with too much. However the engine loom/intake manifold/idle control is different and this is where issues will occur. If you change the engine loom you will possibly be able to start it, However idle cannot be controlled as the system is stepper motor on V7 not induction coil. If you fit the RS manifold to the V7 engine (drilling or adapter required) it will run ok, But tuning will be out of kilter therefore an aftermarket ecu will be needed. So save your coin buy a link or similar then you can do it correctly and you will have a reliable ride. Thats what I did on my 91 anyway.

NZ Article on this model http://www.stuff.co.nz/motoring/photos/9415997/New-Subaru-WRX-set-to-be-slower

Whilst i do like my Endless setup with braided brake lines/slotted rotors. This is well worth a read. Very eye opening. Absolutely true too! http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1998265

maybe you fitted the wrong headgasket? noise is piston/valve strike during overlap.esp if heads shaved too much as well. did you cc check them?

If it BEB on the way......One hard pull in 4th should see it go from tik too KNOCK,KNOCK...As suggested tick is...ok if slight particularly when cold. Could even be piston slap,little end or an incorrectly set up valve shim. Certainly not an easy one to diagnose on a forum

Cool the air..........Burn more fuel.........regardless on what it is........Cooling it does add weight and restricts flow. Horses for courses though!...........A Clydesdale wont jump steeple fences either...........

Yes will fit....Bit of jigsaw puzzling with drive shafts in the front would be all.(inner cvs)

Fit A SOOPERCOOLER and all will be good for 250 Kw easy. For your ROAD car specifically.

Scottie?........How is this project?............Just interested as I see you have discovered theory and practical are not always related.......Hence why I had to do 3 prototypes before success.

91 GT wagon 417,000km.....Shift kitted auto fitted at 134,000, when i bought it 11 years ago..............Motor oil changed every 5000 with filter. Seals and rocker covers done a few times now........Hoping for 500,000km......Should be no prob.

You can get a proper oil separator one too.............But seriously??? Why Bother......."Dump waste down the waste pipe"..........And!............. Maintain some crankcase negative pressure to aid moisture evacuation as well as oily vapours. Now I am sure I have covered this before..........Numerous times A? Do the search.!

The Bugatti Veyron can beat the camera........It Cant clock you over 380Kph................MythBusters. Jet car proved it. But thats just stupid to even try it..............Yes you will get a summons if 40 Kph over the limit................Further if the court so decides they can take your car too. Best place to race?........Track or Carclub event.....Infact thats the ONLY PLACE TO RACE.

3 stroke cycle is easy. Just need a triangular path for the piston instead of reciprocal. Think along the lines of the old aeroplane engines with a crank surrounded by cylinders but add a rotary engine in the centre and make the outside rotate at 1/3 the crank rpm\'s in a counter rotating fashion to balance it all. As much as i admire your thinking i cannot see how one could mount all the spinning housings and achieve cornering with a piston around a triangle. Stand to be corrected though......Always learning new stuff..............Every day1 Like this Wow!....It doesnt even need spark plugs..............Truly an exceptional piece of engineering.......................Artwork. LMFAO! Although it does look like a Generator..............Fitting in a Subbie could be an issue too.

3 stroke cycle is easy. Just need a triangular path for the piston instead of reciprocal. Think along the lines of the old aeroplane engines with a crank surrounded by cylinders but add a rotary engine in the centre and make the outside rotate at 1/3 the crank rpm\'s in a counter rotating fashion to balance it all. As much as i admire your thinking i cannot see how one could mount all the spinning housings and achieve cornering with a piston around a triangle. Stand to be corrected though......Always learning new stuff..............Every day1

LOl..So you do agree with me.......Mission success! Anyways....BACK to the post..I also agree with your page 1 statement In summary:- "cams control power and availability of said power".... at the Rpm you decide upon based on your eventual engine use requirement after consideration and calculation using fuel, type/octane/Btu/ along with intake temp/volume/pressure numbers, Rotating mass numbers, combined with compression ratio requirements. Increase rpm spool they will not................Well not by themselves

So he should fit a soopercooler then is what you are saying?

Typical of this "Wise one". He who Knows all actually knows sweet FA A 3 stroke OMG! with short rods on one side? Interesting concept! Please produce a cyclic diagram. Seen many engines i has. Rotary sleeve valve two strokes and also some very clever 4 strokes. But 3?....Never! Even Funky will agree with me............Although that may hurt a wee bit. Lol If one fitted a soop......No I wont go there!

Sounds about right to me.........The more startups per km travelled the more oil used.......pistons need to swell to correct fit by heating up. rings pass oil n gas until "sealed"

Just use your floor jack under the engine ,....Use a bit of wood to extend to one of the heads....Jack up carefully...You will see if engine mount is a 2 piece or not..............Do both sides...............If its a round one.......Probably Split into a 2 piecer. Can be replaced from undercar............Awkward job esp driver side

Ive said it before an i will state it again. Put waste down the waste pipe!. Catch cans are a WOFT... A correctly designed exhaust venturi breather system will dispose of this waste milky gunk/oil without dripping out the exhaust or causing excessive or visible smoke! Even on the track or at hillclimbs I have not been advised of an issue. Only time I have ever had smoke was when the sump was approx 200ml overfull then i took a long tightening 50kph corner at a considerably higher speed...Then it was like a blown turbo smoking...Cleared very quickly! One other chap mentioned that there was a slight blue whisper of blue smoke from my exhaust on a hillclimb one day. During normal/highway daily use there is nothing at all! My forged motor (40,000km) uses/loses around 500ml per 1000km travelled... That\'s sweet F*#*#* all !!

Absolutly pointless fitting a catch can if you just feeding the crap back to your intake system anyway. Infact by doing what you are doing is stupid. As this just allows moisture build up in your oil because the sump backpressure is now increased and no longer being evacuated correctly under a vacuum which keeps moisture levels low. The "crap" (moisture/blowby gases) from the sump breathers should be evacuated and dumped. The lower the crankcase/sump area pressure the better. Some more info here http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,33282.0.html

I reckon the "bent" topped master cylinder is the best option. Easier to fill it, stays cooler too.........Although not Soopercool................