ReubenH

This is taken from my single conversion thread. Same idea between all of them, this is specific to V3/4 manifolds though. ~ Split fuel rail mod: This is a very easy mod, you need: 8 feet of EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection) hose. 8 ft is really just enough. I think you need 9 feet for BE's and BH's as the filter is not in the engine bay A few hose clamps (6 should do it, you can reuse the originals for the rest) 2 T sections A second right hand fuel rail Now, cut your fuel rails like so: Now take the injectors out of your old left hand rail, and swap them over. TAKE CARE. There was a great thread on how to take them out, but sadly it was lost in the sever F*** up of 09. Basically, it's a bastard of a job, and it's easy to brake something. just be patient, and use force (as bad as that sounds). Bolt both fuel rails onto the intake manifold, and cut your EFI to length. I recommend you arrange them under the BOV return/crank case breathers. it makes things tidy and easy to install. Sorry, no pics of how to arrange it. You'll see what i mean though. Now put the final length of EFI hose on the 2 T sections, loop it around as you don't know what length the supply and returns should be yet. You'll cut it once the manifold is installed, and the engine is in the car. Mark which line is the fuel return, that will be the line with the fuel regulators on it. This line will be longer FYI. Once the manifold is on and the engines in the car, don't forget to hook up the vacuum lines on the regulators too. That's the split rail mod complete. simple huh

Hah, don't make me laugh. But yeah, coil overs? sounds like an idea.

Yeap good idea, can anyone write it up, how to do it etc? going to put my new engine in my wagon in the weekend and might as well do it while its still out of the car, should make it a bit easier. Also anyone know if its worth doing using greys? does it still up the fuel a bit? There's one in my single conversion thread. I can split it off into it's own topic if you want.

I used to have a how to on it, i could write one again, i still have all the pics it used... It's dead easy really, if you're in auckland i'm happy to help.

Castrol edge 10w-60 here too. It's what the doctor prescribed. ;D

I bet the old AFM is fixable too. Don't chuck it out, whip out the soldering iron and see if there are any broken connections in there.

Words to live by.

Oh, missed that. Yeah, it'll just clonk out if the AFM goes. Why haven't you put the new one in, it's like a 2 minute job.

FAIL. Fail fail fail. WTF. All this about producing boring cars in order to make money for the flash ones... They already do - and the STi IS the flash sports car. Any thing better is a limited run for pure enthusiasts. There is no need for an auto STi, they already have an auto turbo impreza to please the yanks... which is damn close to the STi anyway! I mean... you can't dull down the STi.. that's what the WRX is for. Just... ugh. FAIL. I am so turned off by subaru now. Pre 2003 only for me thanks.

That was my dads first car. He's been a boxer man for YEARS. Has great stories about the leaky carbs... which leaked onto the rather toasty cylinder heads. He had 3 engine fires with that car!! No real damage though.

All my college years it was a BG GTB. I managed to pick up a black GTB limited, i'm STILL bloody stoked about that - like hell am i selling it when i move to oz. i r keepin it for yeeeeaaaaaaaaaaars. The other one is a widebody V6 type R. That way you can mod the heck out of it, unlike a 22B where you want to keep it in a museum. And of course the usuals like a DBS9, or shelby mustang GT500. Mmmmmmm GT500......... 8)

Yep, it's ALL i use, and it's bloody fine. Cheap as too. Mobil oteha valley is one of the cheapest petrol stations in the country, and it's right "next door".

I'd bring a set of steelies to him and say you'll take the car, minus chromes for $500. I wouldn't bother trying to sell them, that's his damn problem. Otherwise id try find one that's not owned by some guido/homie . Any un rego'd ones lying around for $500?

CEL's? It may have spat a code when it died, give that a check. Hows the general maintenance (filters, oil etc.), maybe run some upper engine cleaner? Could it be something with the idle air controller?

Yeah, weird. That first one pictured has 3 plugs, yet 4 sockets. These are the later ECU's for the Phase-II engines such as in the V5 and 6. When i talk about 3 plug's atleast, i'm refering to the yellow socket 3 plug pictured above. These are the 96-98 ish impreza/forrester/GTB ecu's.

Doing a complete engine swap will be pretty easy, you'll just have to worry bout the loom, and some other small things. Though the list of bits needed always grows greatly while you're working on it.. You got an EJ20H, or EJ20R? Having the R will more or less make life VERY easy for you if you dump a V3/4 STi engine in there. The H will mean you need to do a wee bit of wiring, but i guess that leaves more options open, since you'll have to re-loom the ECU anyway.

Ah, but that's what you'd expect. I hope to get mine behind mesh grille in the limited's bumper, and paint it black. Getting a scoopless bonnet just makes it obvious you've gone front mount, it's not like they are going to think the car is an N/A. I don't want anyone to think the car is anything but a booring standard GTB with a fart can on the back. (Not that it's anything but a booring old GTB at the moment though )

What about the black paint they stick on radiators? Is that actually a special paint? Would be easy and cheap to do, i saw a radiator place repaint one once, it's like a 5 min job. i'd like to do that if/when i get a front mount.

Yeah, my dad's 98 BH is an EJ206.

Yeah, you're pretty limited with the TT, you gotta get something that can do TT boost control. I've heard very good things about the AVC-R. Time to pony up some $'s!

LOL! Love it. ;D Apparently there's allot more to 66 if you have a look with a scanner.

Yep, auto's are EJ206's, and manuals EJ208's AFIAK. http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~ccgrant/leggymodels.htm That page though apparently has been criticised for having some details wrong.

Take a look here, the gist of it is the same, but obviously you can skip allot buy just buying the complete engine. it's been done a couple of times, no one seems to have/want to share the ECU pinouts though which will detail any minor differences between the looms (such as the ignition wiring). I think cause those who have done it have gone with aftermarket ECU's. It would be great if someone could tell us properly what needs to be done for the BE/BH's Also, later model BE/BH's got different ECU's. I don't know which is which, and which works with the STi's.

Again, that's not an STi EJ20K. You'll be selling yourself short. I still think your best bed is to find a new short block and go from there. If you were to use it, well, nothing wrong with it. I don't know what sensors would work where etc. It may just plug in - i don't know. You'd have to swap in your yellow injectors (you'll be able to do a split fuel rail mod though), and use the GTB's AFM since it works fine with the V3 STi ECU. You'll Need a V3 STi ECU. The GTB intercooler works fine, but you'd have to get a Y pipe. You'll also need a downpipe, and chances are that downpipe would require you to get a single turbo gearbox cross member. Getting a custom downpipe means you can keep your TT crossmember though. Again, i can't stress this enough, you are starting with an EJ20R, they are GOOD engines, they just like to blow up. The next best thing to a 20R is the V3/4 STi engine (actually better). All these ones you've been finding are downgrades - mainly because of the heads. Unfortunately it sounds like that's something you'll have to live with. Give these guy's a call and ask if they have any V3/4 STi engines or long blocks, or even any short blocks. Sub-Ar-Us Bit's for subaru (formerly known as Aable) waiuku car spares

Nice, thanks for that And the swapping the BCS wires was a success btw, no more CEL, and i have a working BCS in the engine bay. Not that i'm using it :