willisnz

Fair enough, it is a slight tangent from the main heading and OP More accurate heading would be "which of these completely different, high KM, ~$4k BP wagons should I buy

The reference to a turbo over 200km was in relation to one of the other TM links (a 2.0GT) in my subsequent post

Makes sense RE turbo... There is a mix, but this would be our secondary car (we already have 2.0 NA BP with ~100k on the clock that the wife drives) for me to commute in/make trips to Mitre 10, so budget is the primary driver. Would love a GT for the fun, but really just want something that isn't going to fall apart/is worth repairing, unlike my BH which needs repairs that cost the same as what I paid for the car. Totally get there can be a false economy with getting a high km car that needs more repairs than a lower km car...but will struggle to get higher upfront expenditure past the budget committee (aka my wife!)

I don't buy cars without getting a mechanic to do an inspection (I'm too much of a noob to check those things myself...), would either take it to Subirex or have a mobile mechanic I use do one. Other BP's in the same price bracket have fewer kms but are at/approaching cambelt replacement... e.g. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1183529951 http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1201259981 http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1194943219

You guys think this is worth it if no major mechanical issues? Looking for a new daily/runabout to replace my BH which is reaching the uneconomic repair point... http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/subaru/auction-1202140286.htm (Apologies if this is in the wrong part of the boards...)

What did you get?

Dang, I live really close to Patiki road...was finally going to get on the scoreboard!

I recently went through this for a BP legacy in Auckland,prices may be cheaper up here and others will be able to comment on whether the layout of the STI means the labour is more/less intensive...but I was getting quotes of $1100-$1300, with ~1100-1200 being from specialist Subaru mechanics and the $1300 being from a mobile mechanic. No idea what the dealers (e.g. Winger) up here would charge....

TM stuff stuff arrived today..seems comparable to the stuff I got from China for basically the same price so will go with that if I need more. Doors I have partially done so far seem to rattle much less so hopefully this solves my issues!

Those fusions look a pretty sweet deal...I actually chucked some cheap coaxes in the front doors of my BH as the OEM speakers were toast and I (e.g. my wife) didn't want to spend any money on speakers and components are more expensive...tempted to grab those fusions and do it properly. I'm keen on one of those subs, though at the moment my 6.5s are making the doors rattle so will see how I go deadening the doors before I add more bass!

I'm hopeful that not having had the problem yet, if I keep up regular armourall it will be alright...

TImely story on stuff http://www.stuff.co.nz/motoring/85941816/uk-truck-driver-kills-mother-and-three-children-after-crashing-while-using-mobile-phone

Also interested in the answer to this. I used a different unit in my BP as I have the McIntosh HU. Mate has an BP outback with the Kenwood HU and I'm trying to find a solution for him that isn't a $250 grom....

Good to know!

Which one? have been considering this as well...Fusion one seems to be a common option.

Yeah, in theory I should just be able to get them off with no damage. I only really care about not damaging them in case I have issues putting the Rev-D skirts I got onto my Rev-A car and therefore need to revert back to the original parts. That was my initial method, will try it with a bigger flat head and being a bit more aggressive and if that doesn't work straight away then I'll get the saw out:)

*bump*

I'm replacing the mud-guards and skirts on my BH Legacy, when I go to unscrew the screws that hold them in place they just keep turning and turning but aren't actually unscrewing.... I did get one off, so I know the screw goes into a clip, which I'm assuming is broken so the "nut" on the other side just turns when I turn the screw. Anyone dealt with the before? At this rate I think I will just grind the head off the screws so I can get the mud guards off without destroying them or just ripping the screw out.

Other really good option is @Subirex Automotive , though if you are on the shore, Manukau may be a bit of a hike!

Admittedly my BH isn't worth protecting, but I park in a public car parking building everyday and park between the ramp and giant pillar every day...not the easiest park to get into so nobody else takes it, however I love it as it is impossible for anyone to ding my car, unless they somehow clip my rear bumper as they pass by!

This is true, given most of the stopping power comes from the front. I would primarily be doing it for the learning experience, with the marginal stopping power gain and enhanced looks (drums are pretty rusty and ugly) being of secondary importance.

This is the same TM seller as I posted above, similar price to the Chinese link I posted. I went the China route, will report back when it arrives. If I need more will probably go TM route as shipping from China takes ages! If the descriptions are correct, 25m of that flashing tape from Bunnings weighs less than 0.7m of the TM stuff? Or am I reading that wrong? So it probably isn't that effective at increasing the mass of the door? Will probably help block outside noise but my issue is vibration at low freq bass, so I think I need to increase the mass of my door.

How do retail customers get a trade card?

Out of curiosity, why do you want to raise your Legacy?

Damn,I live right by the Avondale one and was going to take the dogs to te atatu this avo. Though I was beaten to it anyways....