Loren

The manifold is never very hot to touch though... so can't be that much heat going into them.

Better disks won't help much if you are putting too much heat into them... you need ducting or bigger disks or both. You also need to follow proper warm up and (more importantly) cool down procedures.

So you couldn't make more than 230kw... and you swapped the rear muffler only, and then you were able to make more than 230kw?

extremely unlikely to be too restrictive.

For a road car I would just put it on and forget. If you will be going to the track, a dyno check is probably a good idea... won't need a tune I bet, just a safe check... shouldn't cost much more than the dyno bolt up cost.

I've made header, up pipe and down pipe shields with the stuff from pro wholesale... still have my down pipe shielded with that... is hard work though. You will need loads of steel cable ties and a good cable tie tool.

Cardwells usually have the good stuff. https://cardwells.co.nz/heatshield-products-exhaust-wrap.html Come to think of it Road and Track have the good stuff too I think. It's all pretty temporary though tbh... no matter how expensive.

Brand new turbo from a local trustworthy supplier sounds like a win to me.

very nice. should come in a bit under $2000 delivered from full-race. Did Diesel and Turbo have a price?

I personally don't think any VF turbo will make that power... not on your motor in any case. If I was you I would be looking for the most modern VF bolt on turbo available. I would say you'll get better spool, better mid range torque and... probably be just as good up top... and if it's slightly less up top... who cares as it's a tiny little turbo that dies rapidly past 6500 rpm anyway.

I am guessing a ~5353 means the internals of a vf53 into the housing of a vf48... why do that? no f***en idea. crack possibly. Don't get a vf22... it's OLD OLD OLD.

AA for road cars. Classic Cover for other cars.

Go to Diesel and Turbo on Waione Street and see what the best price they could on a new VF turbo is. I know someone that paid a lot less than $2000 for a new VF36 recently.

what's wrong with a V8?

Surely you want it to perform a lot better for it to be worth all the money? I think the 2867 will s*** all over the vf22 anyway.

Are you going to be more disappointed if it's a bit laggy or more if it's a bit underwhelming when spooled? Personally I would go for bigger... and be prepared to work hard to keep it spooled. But that's for a race car. Road car, go small and it will be way more fun.

I assume you are wearing the proper under garments to make two layers? No AC in my car, but I put in a couple of bilge fans that pull air from rear window vents... they help quite a bit. Some tints on the windows for next summer though... I have zero tints and it makes a big difference. The cool suit setups I have seen are mega expensive.

I got most of my stuff from Demon-Tweeks when the exchange rate was much much better... I had to buy 2 of everything (for myself and my daughter). I got alpine stars 2 layer fia suits, gloves, shoes, socks, long pants, long sleeve tops and balaclavas from demon-tweeks. Stilo open face helmets from Harris Race Radio. Necksgen braces from Fast Lane Spares. Wearing all this stuff might make you safer, but the heat is a killer... I dread racing on a hot summer days now.

Lake Auto Services

umm... the starter motor isn't engaged when doing launches or any kind of driving.

Oh I read funkytown, but couldn't see him in the photo. He's in Hamilton I think.

funkytown is where?

On the intake mani, directly under the throttle. So there is the crankcase breather port... it has a plastic T section... one side goes to the intake pipe, the other goes to the pcv. Some newer blocks have two crankcase breathers... I just blocked the second one up when I had one of those... I don't know how it is plumbed into the OEM system at all.

The air going into the catch can is not metered air... it can be vented to the atmosphere. The biggest thing to be worried about it is not restricting the flow from the heads and crankcase with small ports on your breather. I use a 4 port can... one port for each breather appropriately sized... and one large breather port on top which I vent under the car. Block the paths back into the intake pipe and remove the pcv and block that port too... though some people would prefer to keep it.

I'm not a lawyer, and in fact was escorted from my law faculty for gross moral ineptitude (and poor personal hygiene), but I'm going to say that your chart does not meet the standard of proof required to backup your claims