Loren

BEB?

Too big to be fast on a street course... but sounds awesome... this one has a very nice exhaust setup from llama.

Raced at Port Rd on Sunday... results were pretty disappointing. First run was a dnf due to some dodgy wiring (mine) which stopped the external fuel pump relay from operating. I bypassed the relay for subsequent runs... the rest were pretty mediocre due to a combo of messy unfocussed driving and annoying as hell understeer that always rears it's ugly head at this event... plus turbo lag made worse by not being able to apply lots of throttle immediately after turn in due to the understeer. I am going to try bigger springs in the rear to help with the understeer and some mild anti lag is being setup as well. 1st (Albaru) to 5th in class were all Subarus... followed by an Audi (S8 v10), a Galant and another Audi (TT).

I managed all the rear lateral arms bushes with a small vice and some sockets. The rear trailing arm front bush can be drilled and the outer sheath cut with a hack saw. Rear trailing arm rear bush I used a gear puller and socket. Rear diff out rigger bushes you can use a drill then a hack saw. Rear diff cradle bushes the same... but not tried it without removing the whole thing from the car.

jp-carparts is very slow and annoying to use, but at least pretty complete. Also they don't have very deep categories and you have to rely on the images a lot more... which take forever to load. Amayama have good categories with good common sense / well translated naming.

I found their catalogue sub standard anyway, I've always used jp-carparts and more recently amayama.com, then just part number look up at partsouq.

They are only good for very hard driving. You could drive around with open diffs all round and not even notice on a daily.

The big wing is great... but if you prefer the boy racer shaved look... about 20kg of bricks in the boot will have the same affect

The R/RA gearbox makes for a very different driving experience. Lower ratios, 60% torque to the rear instead of %40... a real rear diff, and DCCD. Some boxes will have a front lsd too... but just a viscous lsd. So better acceleration and much less of the understeer you get in a normal STi setup... unless you crank the centre diff right up, in which case it will probably start to understeer.

Everything genuine in NZ is super expensive...just a single axle nut is $25! I thought the $70 was the repco price though... which would be ridiculous. Well done getting it fixed.

Repco won't sell you axles, just CV kits as far as I know. $70 is a S*** tonne of money for a rubber boot, grease and a couple of cable ties. If I have a ripped boot, I generally remove the whole axle, remove both CVs, clean completely, inspect and repack with grease and new boots. You only need to replace the CV if it's worn. The axle nut on the hub can be anywhere from hard to get off to impossible... the last one I did had to be cut off with a hammer and chisel. Most of the time they will come off with a large breaker bar... a long extension pipe might be needed. The hand brake should hold the car still. If the inner CV boot or CV is the one that needs replacing, you could just change it while on the car... won't be that hard.

Mine spits a bit of black S*** when cold as well... I think it's just moisture loosening some of the black stuff that builds up in the exhaust... no big deal.

Swapping the crank and left intake will get you part of the way... but what if the cam profiles are different?

If you have an on the edge tune and no knock monitoring on the ecu... you really don't want any decrease in octane. Plus who wants oil coating their turbo, IC and intake manifold even if it doesn't affect the octane?

A very simple setup... 2 litre can with three inlets and one outlet. 2 x 1/2 inch inlets for the header breathers... and a 3/4 inch inlet for the crank breather. The outlet is 1.5 inches which is piped out under the car. So no PCV and nothing going back into the intake. I don't bother piping the oil back into the sump as it looks nasty once it's been in the can... plus I don't track it much so don't actually get large volumes of oil in there. I have no idea where the 1 litre of oil over a weekend goes I also trimmed up the head breather gaskets, so they flow better.

I would also like to know... for example my car will magically disappear a litre of oil on a race weekend, does that qualify?

Got new lexan rear screen fitted... so all windows are in now. The screen was a lot bigger than the standard one... so no room for any trim.

Without any changes? not even wiring changes? I doubt it.

Fake news... I've never seen curry at a sushi shop

I didn't even know that the Japanese ate curry.

It will last 100 years if you throw money at it constantly.

yes I thought so maybe too... changed it to Brett... then to be sure I listened to him say his name... and couldn't tell, so put it back.

Good old Brent... one of the worst aussie accents ever.

Bugger... it means the centre of the bearing that is supposed to spin, was seized ...and the outer casing of the bearing was instead doing the spinning. Happened to me once too.

I have to disagree here... it's usually an insufficient cool down that warps or even cracks the disks. Parking up when there is still a lot of heat in the calliper causes a hot spot... which leads to localised expansion... and a warped or cracked disk. Personally I think the subaru 4 pot is too small for the track and so much heat in generated that even a nice slow warm up and a good cool down will not save the disk. I have to machine or replace the front disks after every track session... one of the reasons I don't bother with the track much.