Loren

One scrape and your life is over. Why do we do it to ourselves?

Lucky you... I managed a full loom de-wire / re-wire last lock down... this year all I can think of is tidying up the jack points on the sills. The engine is out for a rebuild and I possibly need a new turbo, so I can't even do any online shopping

Have you tried it? You can always just read the codes from the dash... rather than try and connect a device.

They look very nice.. lots of people could make something just as nice locally.

What don't you like about them? I had one of their 3 inch downpipes once... what annoyed the hell out of me was that it wasn't designed to fit with the existing oem mid pipe... they made it about an inch too short and put the flange on a different angle. Infuriating. It was also was made from mild steel which was covered in surface rust in a short period of time.

Looks fatal.

I know someone that just imported a set of used struts from the US. Good price and very good condition when they turned up. https://www.rockauto.com/ Hard to find anything not shagged in NZ... rebuilding shocks costs more than buying new KYBs.

How do you know the misfire is on 4? Do you think it's lean all the time or just on boost? Lot's of oil in the intercooler is to be expected if you had a broken ring land as all the extra blow by goes straight back into the intake system.

What you got? Rear subframe lock kit... and?

oh you have coil on plug.. I always forget that... removes one possible source of a misfire. Was the cause of the first engine failure ever diagnosed? Like was it detonating or running lean... and has that been fixed?

Up to you... your money. The rears don't get a lot of heat compared to the front, so some repco replacements will probably be fine.

Spark leads? No point doing a leakage test if the compression is even across all cylinders.

Looks like stock mid section and off the shelf rear section and muffler... both have been hacked since I've had it. It sits nice and high like a stock exhaust.

Can you elaborate on how you lose precision? Most reviews I read and watch on YT with a Kartboy/Bushing combo or CObb/Bushing Combo speak about how much more precise and great the shifter feels. You lose precision because all the distances are smaller.... imagine the extreme case where the distance between 1st and 2nd was only 1 cm... and the distance between 1st and 3rd was only 5mm. Your ability to judge the position of each gear is diminished... your ability to tell when it's properly engaged is diminished... and your feel for if you are lining up each change correctly, is also diminished.

A much better idea as it it doesn't sound like any extra power is wanted. I have done this in the past.

I wasn't joking... it's a lot of work. Any shortcuts taken are at your peril. The heads might not need decking. If you have all the lifter clearances checked and they are good (they won't be) you won't need to do that... but valve seals are cheap, so you'd be crazy not to do it as the heads have to be off the car to replace them. As for rocker cover oil seals... cheap compared to everything else, and who wants their brand new engine leaking oil?

You'll need a mechanic that can work out the correct head gasket thickness to ensure the compression ratio is correct... and that you don't get any valve to piston collisions. If those two things are all good, then it should be a fairly straight forward process... and no tuning should be required. Oh and your heads might need decking... which will increase the cost... plus you'd most likely want to have all the valve seals replaced and all the clearances set. You may as well renew the clutch while the motor is out too. Oh and all the oil seals for the rocker covers and cams will need replacing. Probably a new cambelt and all the idlers and the tensioner etc. Also looks like the RCM short blocks don't come with an oil pump or water pump.

I had a GFB short shifter on mine... was terrible... you lose precision... can't tell when it's in gear properly... can 't tell what gear it's in... can easily change into the wrong gear. Hated it.

All the whiteline stuff is fine IMO... never noticed much of an increase in nvh with any of their stuff.

If it's not overheating, keep up the beating.

Be aware that RPG carbon are a Taiwanese company pretending to be in the U.S and they charge U.S. prices. The quality is ok though... not mind blowing, but not terrible.

Yes the strut, shock and spring are one unit. You need to buy a new strut and swap over the spring and top hat... and if the new strut doesn't come with bump stops, then put those on too. I have no idea what spec shocks you have in your car. You don't really need an special tools for this work apart from spring compressors... I don't think you should attempt it though. I suggest that you ask them for a breakdown of costs, then you know what you are pay for parts and labour... I'd say it's only 3 to 4 hours work, but the dealers tend to charge for more labour than they need. Ask them if a wheel alignment is included in their quote too.

Why do people go to the dealership? I don't understand. Though 1200 to 1500 doesn't sound all the bad. The shocks you use will have a big influence on the cost I'd say.

Only difference I can think of might be ABS vs none-ABS. You can use hubs with ABS rings on a none ABS car... but not vice versa.

Don't you have a new turbo ? I reckon it's a coin toss. The single scroll has the advantage of shorter header pipes on cylinder 1 and 3... that helps spool. Mainly talking about stock unequal length headers here... aftermarket aren't as tight. The twin scroll have the advantage of no interfering pulses and better flow up top.