Gripless

Sounds like #2 is dead and engine is blown. could be rings, piston or bore. unlike to be valve train if the oil came out the dip stick. Pressure would escape the easiest way. even rod snapped, not sure what Subaru sounds like with those but on inline engine its pretty loud, you can’t miss it. piston could have cracked around the rings and leak pretty badly. Melted piston would be least amount of damage and s*** in the engine. Borrow or buy a flexible camera and stick it through the spark plug hole. With piston at the bottom have a look around and you’ll likely see what it is. You could listen for the air leak from intake or exhaust ports when you leak test it, to see if the valves are sealed. PCV valve would be most likely place for the compression test air to escape. With 0 psi on #2 and all the oil in the intake etc would be worried about the cylinder imbalance at this stage.

Oil could go out the dipstick, and it’d then also go through to the intake if the breathers lines are all connected up which would explain the turbo sucking through the oil.

Yeah but stated rails. you could use the recaro ones for LVVTA. I had homemade brackets all welded in place for mine once it had full cage. But fixed seats are a pain if you share the car with different height people. That all goes into the cage design as well as padding. If the seat goes to far back then cage changes. That’s a whole other bit to deal with. bias is one thing power is another. Being awd likely no change required but never assume that stuff always ask the certifier. plus the drifting you may need a extra set of callipers for handbrake so all goes on the list to ask.

For MSNZ the rules on cages are pretty much the same over time as it’s pretty well designed. Worst I had to do was swap belts and first cage needed a bar added. But that was over built by rally shop from day 1. Get a good cage that goes to strut towers and has x braces for front doors and rear from lower b pillar to rear cage c pillar or rear strut tower. adding bars later is a pig of a job. Good thing is since Subaru are used for rally heaps of places have old templates for them. don’t be afraid to splash out on safety gear and cage padding it’s worth it. Ive had a couple of close calls and that gear not only saves your life but reduces damage massively. HANS device are awesome! Classes are where the rules can change, All tracks use MSNZ rules so if you have a cage with the stickers and matching documentation you’re good. You need to get a Motorsport licence so join a approved club and then apply for MSNZ licence. You have to sit a test but it’s pretty simple. Also clubs have so many people that can help with contacts and questions. read this https://www.motorsport.org.nz/licences/ if you just want a cage and do club events and track days them get M if you want to go drifting or compete then getting C covers you for up to national events. I haven’t kept up with rules in ages

Same s****y power supply as so many things. shows more about standards and testing rather than design. design is good as they aim for cost savings. also currently with mass component shortage things will get even worse as they try to get stock.

The studs recesses don’t touch the outside edge on the central concave so could be 100mm legacy wheels. They also almost touch the centre cap so that’s a 100mm thing. you’ll find out at compliance time.

Just call LVVTA certifier if that fails call LVVTA tech department directly to get a recommendation. Most cert people are pretty good provided you don’t try and bulls*** them. The sooner you call the cheaper things are since you won’t get s*** internet advise and buy the wrong things. Your old cert work may get looked at again as the standards change over time. And now EJ20 again so any old changes need to be rechecked. You can’t just undo cert changes and go back to stock when you want you have to go do more paperwork and spend $. I’d be pretty upfront about that old cert to the certifier and you’ll have to trailer it around to them. Driving an illegal car to a cert place is a quick way to have a bad day. from past dumb s*** I’ve done. half cages are drag approved only, at race track they are counted the same as no cage, so no passengers. Drifting is likely full cage required anyway. You can get half cage road legal under LVVTA but it won’t help much other than chassis flex on a track. With half cage you have to unclip and remove harnesses when on the road. Only MSNZ approval works for harnesses on the road. Don’t get a bolt in harness bar they are dangerous. Even running real harnesses to the rear seat belt bolts works but the angles are very steep and a bit risky. harness rule change and HANS neck device rules made belt go back to 2” and cost way more. without a cage you can’t always strip the rear as it has to many sharp bits. Though you used to be able to certify the car as 2 seater and then you could. seats can’t be on home made rails etc recaro are an option as they are OEM crash tested and double lock. These and harnesses are part of MSNZ assessment. The issue is seat belt clip mount is attached to the rails. If it is chassis mounted then you have more options with rails. Same with seats likely need new ones that are safety rated. anything that is not MSNZ or LVVTA still needs to be WOF standards. things I have some vague idea of you may have to resize the rear brakes as they are now having to stop 100% of the driveline power. I think redrilling cast knuckles isn’t allowed. drive shaft may have to be 1 piece to get rid of center bearing depending on power etc. then you may need 2 drive shaft loops.

Ok I thought the stock ones crossed over at the back. you’d lose some twin scroll spool up speed but on a single it’d be almost nothing. The tomei one is still twin scroll which must muffle the rumble more as well.

Is it the fact the each bank joins vs the opposite cylinders. wont you just need to swap the pipes at the collector. length alone may not give you the rumble. And the extra length of pipe would be hard get to a low mount.

Pretty common in all the devices that have the under plastic switches. washing machines had the same faults. Trade off with wear vs sealing things.

On special today the 5 amp version with the led status leads that you leave connected to the car. down to $150 from $180 https://www.pbtech.co.nz/product/BATCTK1987G/CTEK-40-358-MXS-50-Battery-Charger-Value-Pack-with

The UPS 12v connectors can do that ther are big and not splash proof though. I was thinking of doing the same as I know I’ll drive off with a charger connected.

I was looking at the panel mount kit one with the lights. I just get all overkill stuff so I never have to buy twice. same reason I have the 1/2” Milwaukee impact driver. Though it is a fun toy on suspension bolts.

Price difference wasn’t too bad and it’ll save being annoyed waiting if it runs right down again. far better than the 2.2A I have now. the battery is a huge sealed one with stupid CCA rating so should work out fine.

Thanks guys. ordered the 10A one., should be here tomorrow. Looking at the trickle charger one but the big ones can do the same. still 12 hour on the s*** one I had was enough to get the car running and take people to get jabbed.

Anyone got a good recommendation for a charger. I have a large seal battery and being low use car I have run it flat again. need something big and fast. don’t have easy access to power while parked but some days I will

Does it even have abs, is there a abs pump connected up in the engine bay? You may want to start by checking the part numbers on the ECU and abs etc to see if they are from the car originally. the. Go checking for unconnected plugs and cut wires.

You could go whitelign or another brand camber bolt for the shocks race brakes or racer products both work with Brembo parts.

Yeah GR rear bar is the common swap in America. for shock the Impreza ones could be too short unless the hub mount are tall.

Pedders may do springs. sway bars if you have the factory bar and mounts then look at the Sti from the 08-14 if the american forums can be trusted. A high vehicle and heavy bar would be pretty s***. the white line bars are very stiff even in the Sti they are overkill on the road. Even at 40kph on a tight 90 turn the car squats at the back enough to feel the balance shift. for shocks maybe the legacy would be closer in that it is higher than Impreza and could be same mounting.

I turned down a real Subaru verified 22b at 70-90k about 10 years ago. Was cheap for back then too.

As long as IRD don’t flag it. Flipping cars is legal and you don’t have to be a dealer initially but buying anything to do up and sell for profit incurs tax.

Best test is to ring insurance companies. if they want to revalue the car every 6 month then it’s going up. GTRs are like that now. Can’t buy a years insurance unless you set the value at a low rate, market value is insane.

There was a boom in 2019 with lots of old collectors retiring and clearing out, and again mid 2020 when overseas travel money was dumped into the car market. likely another one soon as it’s the end of overseas travel season and weather will be nice for holidays.

Why not just seal the ends? either black windscreen silicone or nylon bolts and cut the tops off level once it’s in there.