Gripless
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Posts posted by Gripless
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@Berg the ej25 heads are way smaller than the ej20 ones so you'll have more restriction to start.
Insert Big D vs little o
joke here.
Read this Tomei page for all the areas they looked at developing parts.
http://www.tomeiusa.com/news/Report-EJ25-V1.html
MRT reckons 260wkw on the ej25 is the max without head work.
but even before that the more efficient you make the flow the less timing and stress you put into the engine to make whatever power you are after.
But porting has minimizing returns, the first about $500 gets you 85% of the gains of a $2000 job.
Ok so I was looking in to this a few weeks ago and talking to a couple of shops.
@gotasuby does this all sound right from your experience. My build won't start until later this year.
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Pull the intercooler and check inside for oil.
Also check the rear edge of the intercooler, that's were mine split. It's just a rubber seal pinched between the aluminum.
Turbo was pushing harder to try and keep the boost up and just making more heat since the Ecu was reading after the leak so stopped the waste gate getting opened.
all the GRB cars with down pipe only are 210-215wkw so it's a reasonable number for the ej20. It's a newer turbo but not that different.
if it's making 190wkw it hopefully won't be that big an issue yet.
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Because I was interested in seeing what they actually make so I found out...
186.4wkw at 5900rpm
not the least powerful car
375.5Nm at 3300rpm
Model: 2008 GRB STI (JDM)
Displacement: 2L
Mods: Titanium exhaust system done in Japan.
Turbo/Boost: Stock /Stock
Fuel: 98
ECU: Stock
Tuner/dyno: Subaru / PBMS
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Ok finally got the car out into the world...
Corners are just rough cut still as the cutting blades has to much jitter when cutting corners that tight. So that will have to wait for a smaller cutting wheel.
Good news is there is no movement in the bumper at 99.99kph
even passing near trucks and walls. Though I think double sided tape or sealer maybe required at some stage just to keep it in place if it get physically knocked. The tray can pop out of place slightly but not actually seperate from the car.
If you look closely you can see the three pairs of holes in the seam above the cut where the cable ties (
also known as greatest invention ever, after the car and gas and...) have been used to make 3 mounting points for the new under tray.
After the new exhaust is in I'll most likely take out a little more and make a new rear tray from the diff back. There will be no need for the heat shield across the car since the exhaust will be tucked up one side like the sedan. That should also make the diff visible from the back too so will have to shine it up, ok maybe not.
exhaust tips are blue but just dirty. Just be thankful the bumper is cleaned, and that was only done to remove all the dirty hand prints from doing the work.
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On January 9, 2018 at 11:03 PM, Zenki said:
When off the shelf colours just won't do...
(Yes I know you can paint over paint but where's the fun in that)
@Zenki are the covers actually required?
I have a set fitted and don't like the colour so can I be lazy and just unscrew and not have the covers?
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1 minute ago, 94 Leone said:
This is severe shrinking of the car lmao 6k*4k res picture down to whatever yours was haha.
Just looked pixelated, so guess just out of focus near the guard then.
That's just a crop and shrink for tag to be mobile friendly.
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8 minutes ago, 94 Leone said:
Or a photoshop...
Should have gone with the shrinking the background not stretching the car.
im waiting for this to degrade into an engine block sitting in the grass somewhere.
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Somehow managed to reshape and wedge the removed section of bumper behind what's left to create new supports.
Will see tomorrow how it holds up to high speed.
That or go to the wreckers and get another one if it rips off.
washed exhaust tips and muffler so they shine ready for beening seen in daylight.
@RAYDEO Me too, just now I have two of them. One corded and one cordless. Corded one spent a lot of time cleaning ports and polishing things. Cordless one I think is going to have a life of cutting and removing things only.
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@JGM think it's fixed... Post embedded the image but wouldn't keep it as it was png.
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Until you see the difference in the block design, they had such tiny cylinder walls back then.
Ideally a gc8 with 08+ block, heads, intake etc as they just flow so much better.
still not sure I'm even a fan of the newer square shape. Most likely be thought of like the cars from the 80's as a generation of boxes with wheels.
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@RAYDEO Hope to clean it up today so it's a little more attached so I can drive it outside to get some clear pictures.
the middle bit is where all the mounts were, so it needs reinforcing before it goes anywhere or I think it will act like a parachute.
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So I was on the way home and ended up with one of these somehow
Which savagely attacked the rear bumper of the car when I finally arrived home.
Now the dark unpainted plastic trim from the lower section of the bumper is laying on the ground...
Rear muffler is shining and clearly visible form behind the car now. More importantly room for the new muffler
Just have to tidy up a few areas and figure out if it needs a under tray or diffuser.
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Don't care I want the old one more than the one I have anyway.
once they left WRC it was all down hill. Look at Toyota nothing good since gt4.
Evo X is like GTR all computer controlled twitchy ness. Subaru is/was the last without the rear and center diff all taking away the fun. If the next sti is hybrid or twitchy I'll turn in to a old F*** and restore an old car (1998).
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I thought it was just the end of the EJ engine.
As long as there's a WRX doubt prices will change. And old cars are based more on following. Look at the integra 16k for a dc5 wtf?
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@Niran yeah that's one of the options Pbms was looking at for the v11's.
Then again I've got another 1500rpm where it falls off out to 8000rpm
I have the baby sized motor like the older models.
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5wkw more than JDM v11 stock on fresh rebuilt engine and hundreds of kilos lighter. Power to weight will be better than mine
You still have potential for more with that extra boost, v11 turbo pushes only about 14psi up top
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@evowrx Though it was both, but that post was meant to be pretty generic.
writing S*** to explain without lots of terms it is pretty long without pictures and I'm not saying I'm good at it or that it was complete.
Plus aren't early Subaru pistons just cut with a square bowl and only the edge was flat, nothing as bad as Honda etc.
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26 minutes ago, Subru said:
Engineering explained... My brain just dies after one of his videos. His new videos full of graphs and equations im just like naah its easier to just watch some videos of cars having crashes.
Ok compression ratio the difference between
- volume or air in the cylinder when the piston is at the bottom.
- volume or air in the cylinder when the piston is at the top.
say you have a 2L 4 cylinder boxer
shocking I know
each cylinder is 250cc when the piston is at the bottom.
if that got compressed as the piston traveled up and the valves are closed so it can't escape it goes down to 25cc
that would be 10:1 compression.
anyway @boon is more technically accurate, but you get the idea.
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Ok you need to understand compression ratio...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nveqCMNTth0
Skimming is what you do to make the top of the block and head dead flat so they seal correctly.
it is a cutting machine that takes tenth of a mm off the block or head each pass until it is flat.
Most often done when you have blown a head gasket. Though closed decking, doweling and sleeves and head porting often requires it as well.
Say you did this for a blown gasket for both head and block you have lost .4mm (2 passes at .1mm for head as well as block) then do it again for close deck or rebuilder does it out of habit you've lost 0.8mm from the above the piston.
Now since this makes the cylinder shorter above the piston with the same crank stroke you increase the compression ratio as the cylinder volume is smaller but has the same stroke.
Now compressing air weather by turbo or the piston in the cylinder creates heat (this is why intercooler are after the turbo and you need bigger coolers for higher power).
if the heat gets too high the petrol and air detonate before the spark and since that is too early in the rotation of the crank it's not forcing the crank to turn as much as loading up the rod and bearings (which snaps the rods and makes holes in the block)
Its like only peddling a bike when the pedal is vertical so you get less turning for the force you push downwards (almost no turning). Luckily on a bike the load is small and no damage happens. Now do that with a sledge hammer type force in and engine and you have a broken bike.
That's why na Hondas are 11:1 and turbos are 9:1 (8.5:1 in 1990's) Hondas have no turbo heat so can compress the cylinder more before the detonation happens.
Hope that S*** makes some sense it's long and I haven't checked it. Though someone will point out holes(pun) in it.
ive ignored the good bits like:
turbo efficiency maps/graphs which is where turbos compress air the most with the least heat. Over working a stocker of creates too much heat which is why you get a bigger one. Too big and it lags, too small it just heats the air.
fuel quality i.e. Octane that resists destination or requires more heat to ignite.
And the trade off between on and off boost performance/efficiency of compression ratios.
@Inked in short as long as the heat is below the point that the fuel detonates you're good. So more efficient turbo and bigger cooler will allow you to get more power before things go wrong.
that or thick arse head gasket to restore the missing height.
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Could be anything from previous head skimming upping compression etc. again compression test shows this.
still could be wrong plugs or gap...
its going to be annoying you for a few days so just enjoy the non detonating extra power, have a beer and chill until you get a few tests back.
Good thing is you found an issue before the car went pop
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Start with the compression test as that will tell you if it's a big job or not... If it comes back good straight away then you have less stress.
At the same time:
- the plugs (colour and heat number) since they are out anyway for the compression test.
- piston tops for carbon build up. Again same time as compression test.
then cheap easy stuff like:
- fuel pressure and quality
- timing, the physical base
- And intercooler is clean and free from oil and the fins aren't all bent. Unlikely but can cause a heat issue. Is the intake temp sensor high if you log it?
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Nope can do it on the ground, but yeah torque wrench helps. Or do everything up to FT (F*** tight)
actually once the bar is undone you may want to jack the car up one side to get the bigger bar past the exhaust and over one arm (learnt this the hard swearing way). Doesn't matter which side. Then drop the car again to attach the end links.
Adjustable bars are longer at the ends so can take a little more juggling to get in, than the old bar takes to get out.
Not it a bad idea to pick up a brass bristled brush to clean the threads before you undo the factory stuff. Like $2-4 from warehouse/bunnings.
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2 hours ago, 1randomkiwi said:
A big Whiteline bag arrived today
Now you just need 30 minutes to install it.
Oh plus a full tank of gas and some clear roads to test it.
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What's the body control module part number?
Could be turned off in firmware to not expose them making it dealer only.
other option is the stereo doesn't know the CAN details for the BCM or there is more than one CAN network.
stereo would be unique to NZ since we have different FM range. Maybe if swapped to USDM or JDM they may show up.
joke here.
not the least powerful car
also known as greatest invention ever, after the car and gas and...
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@evowrx don't know, maybe e85 or that power is the street driven daily limit not short sprints and racing. Or they are full of S*** is always an option.
either way if the heads are off and you're doing cams and you can afford the $500 for basic tidy up why wouldn't you to make the most of the cams?