boon

I've got a couple of tricks for those AGM batteries too. Got a proper AGM charger and if that doesn't do it then I can give it a 'bump' with my 17v trickle charge which is good for waking them up again, hahah. They charge best at like 16v, it can be real hard to get a good charge on them especially if your stupid Subaru alternator only pushes like 14.2v EDIT: Yeah just checked some goodness at they take 15.5v to reach full charge, and if they haven't had a good charge in a while they benefit from a bit of gassing to mix up the chemicals inside. So put a DMM on it when it's charging and see what it gets to.

You'll need a pretty decent amp to get tweeter-worthy crossovers onboard - you'll need something up to 4khz, and most amps use 18db/octave crossovers so it might sound a little funky. Ideally you probably want around 4khz 12db/octave but without a processor/high end headunit/original crossover you might have a hard time getting it.

Imagine the noise you would make the first time you hit it on a driveway.

Isn't yours some sort of badass Buddyclub mini thing? What happened to it? I have a D34 Yellowtop somewhere... or you could cram an E-Audio in it? Got 2 of them kicking around as well hahah

TD04 as a daily driver turbo is pretty good really... not great for top end power but it spools pretty damn quickly.

Gotta wonder if that's someone's former pride and joy sitting ruined in a field...

Yeah G4 can do it off a switch... hand controller, that's some PossumLink 1996 shit right there...

The door already sticks out. He needs to space the pillar and gaurds. Then the wheels to match.

Just to reiterate what everyone is saying... you can flip a factory manifold around and face it forwards. A larger plenum chamber like most of those aftermarket manifolds have = more lag due to larger volume you have to compress, but more top end power - hence shifting the curve to the right. Less lag and more power don't go together very well. For less lag you want a smaller, more modern ball bearing turbo, which limits you power-wise to about 240kw@w, you want smaller intercooler piping to increase intake velocity and reduce volume, you want a smaller, less restrictive intercooler... none of this is a recipe for big power.

Autowatch and Cobra make most of the 'traditional' alarms (Mongoose M60/M80 and umm, fill in the blanks...) look pretty arse. But it all comes down to the installer. My old alarm (which the previous owner had installed) was a '5 star' but the brain was tucked up on top of the steering column, loom was looped around in the same area, and the bloody drivers door switch wasn't connected. It had glass break sensors which are a complete waste of time on a Subaru. A $200 chinese single immobiliser alarm, installed extremely well, will protect your car better than a badly installed '5 star'. In Wellington, I would say that vehiclesecurity guy definitely knows his stuff, and I get all my alarms done at SLAP, who do a damn good job IMO (watched both my alarms being installed and I know they go the extra yard)

3089. Mid-pipe was a Zerosports, but that bolted straight up to the factory DP hence fitment = identical. Like I said, only change was rotating the flange. Wrapped and all, no clearance issues at all.

My Rage 3" V7 Downpipe fitted completely fine EXCEPT the midpipe flange had to be rotated about 45 degrees... not extended 100mm. Sounds like the DP you have is for a completely different shape, or your car is somehow really, really bent.

My DD 9515s have paper cones. So do my friend's RE MT18's... just saying. No bass is better than ugly, ugly bass.

New from BT. Umm sounds way more awesome, I would say it's definitely more torquey low down and spools a little faster. I haven't driven it long/hard enough yet to make a solid call, but it's a very nicely made piece of kit.

Rapid Radio, there's a few others that I can't remember off the top of my head. And if you don't supply RCAs and din pocket you'll get charged for them... DIN pockets are usually about $20 and RCAs $20-$more than the car...

Whaaaaaaaaaaaa

Installed Process West TMIC + splitter and CAI + Pod last night. Need to go for a fang this evening and see how much difference it makes.

In that case, for all intents and purposes, it's a VF34. Same compressor housing and wheel. Ball bearing centre. Great turbo on the V7. Earlier spool than the VF30, same top end punch. Probably the best IHI Single Scroll turbo for a street car.

Maybe if it was a dog-box. 6 speed dog gears probably cost the earth and then some. EDIT: That is an MY02 STi, even if it was built in 2001. I just think it's not a Spec C - the water spray bottle is in the engine bay, not the boot, and it has HIDs - Spec Cs all had projectors, to save weight. Has airbag and electric windows which spec-c had neither of. May well be a Prodrive though, at a guess I would say it was crashed (hence new headlights, bumper etc) and the engine got f*cked (radiator to cambelt), possibly the gearbox did too. EDIT2: Kinda do-want that bonnet though ;o EDIT3: It's still pretty cheap for an STi, depends on the k's on the new motor and just what sort of foolishness has been done to the gearbox. If it's got Cusco LSDs and some PPG goodies thrown into it then it's probably at least as good as the normal 6 speed.

You could weld a twin-scroll flange onto a single scroll up-pipe and the turbo would still work just fine... All V7s were single scroll by the way. The Spec C just got the VF34 with BB centre, vs the VF30 with thrust bearings or whatever they're called.

Funny that... who put the alarm in :

There's a few amps that I'm probably the only person in the country who can fix them properly (have information about parts that have the tops sanded off to protect the designs). So I have a stack of them and very, very little free time to work on them.

6x9 boxes suck massively. You buy 6x9s to get some bass when you don't want a sub, 6x9's are primarily designed to go in your parcel tray so they are designed to work in a semi-infinite baffle... they generally have quite stiff suspension and work best, when boxed, in around 80-100L ported per pair. Those 6x9 boxes are more like 4-5 litres, if you want that kind of sound you may as well install a row of tweeters across the parcel shelf since you'll be just about killing the low frequency output.

Mine used to clunk really badly in the rear, once I stopped at an intersection and it clunked so hard I thought the guy behind me had run into me. A lot of places will say diff bushes but the first thing to check is the struts. After I got mine greased it went away completely.

Yes, usually very easily. But I'm swamped at the moment, 6 month turnaround MINIMUM.