nickch

Can't remember.. any rubbing compound should work.. the one I have is a paste type.. and it feels a bit gritty when you rub on your fingertips.. then i finish it off a second time with cut and polish.. [quote name='pappu said: Where did u get such detailed instructions to remove the fronts grill and lite assembly bro? I need something Like that for removing the front bumper if u have a link for it pls do post up bro Link to impreza manuals: URL=http://ken-gilbert.com/impreza-manuals]http://ken-gilbert.com/impreza-manuals[/url] You're after the 2002 manuals as that's the year the bugeyes got to the US. The pics I took last night still showed the lights to be a bit yellowish, and it does not actually look that way IRL. I think theres a bit of lens flare of some sort causing it to look like that.. ><

Yeah. For the price it was worth a try. I know proper OEM brands are rather pricey. Have had the bulbs in the car for a week now. No dramas so far. I normally give the headlights a buff with some rubbing compound. This works in cleaning it. However, haven't found a way to prolong the effects.

related: am keen on getting this done. i read somewhere that its recommended to get an oil change after using the can. is this accurate? now, gotta find a place in chch where i won't attract attention with white smoke..

reminds me of the sound off competition we had between CHC-WGTN-AKL on nzice..

sweet... i'll take pics of the 8000k ones on mine later tonight when it gets darker..

there is not exact statement saying 12000K ones are illegal. guidelines are that headlamps must be white or amber (or somewhere in between). and that higher temperature bulbs will end up looking blue-purple violates this point. but its pretty much a grey area..

yeah.. took me about 45-50 minutes for both sides... i know that with higher temp bulbs, light output tends to get lower.. this is noticeable in the rain.. yellow bulbs are more visible in harsh weather.. 8000k bulbs seem to be the best tradeoff (whiteness vs output).. 12000k bulbs look almost blueish => purple... i was aiming for pure white.. so, was contemplating on 6000k but settled for 8000k and i reckon i made the right decision..

big difference from standard OEM ones.. sorry I didn't take any pictures.. but I'll try to describe it best I can. The bug-eye HID uses D2R from factory. The replacement bulbs I got were labelled D2S, but they fit just the same. 1) Take off the air intake trim over the front of the driver's side headlight. 2) Take of the front grill. This was a bit tricky. I worked one side at a time. You need a long flat head to unclip the bottom clips (one each side). Then use a flat head to unclip the 2 top clips. Repeat on the other side and the grill should just pop out. 3) Remove plastic trims beside the grills. There should be three (3) plastic trim locks. Flathead to pull the center lock out.. and pop out the clips. There should be two on top and one at the bottom behind the plastic piece (hence why you remove the grill first for access to this clip). 4) 3x 10mm bolts to take off the headlight assembly. One on top, and two behind the plastic trim that you removed before. 5) Unplug and take headlight assembly out. This was abit tricky. Detach the electrical connectors from the headlight assembly. Will need a bit of wriggling with care not to scratch your bumper or break the clips. 6) For the HID headlamps, there are 4* philips screws attaching the back cover onto the asembly. Remove these screws, and you should see the HID and the HID connector. 7) Twist off the hid connector. 8) The bulb is afixed to the housing like normal halogen bulbs. Metal spring-type prongs on the base of the bulb. Should be rather self explanatory once you get to it. 9) Replace bulbs. 10) Assembly is reverse of disassembly. Tip: I found that while doing both sides, in my eagerness to reassemble it, I forgot to put the cap (the one attached with 4* philips screws) back and had to take the headlight assemblies back out.. ><

I don't think its a fault. I have since replaced the bulbs with 8000k bulbs.. and they stay white now. The OEM factory bulbs are 4300k IIRC. They tend to settle down to their designated temperature after a while.. Example of bulbs I got: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Performance/Bulbs/auction-346371147.htm

Checkout Moonlight Racing. They've got a huge range of autogauge gauges..

For factory tinted glass, there should be an "OK" sign stating it's factory. At least on my wrx anyways. Got pulled over by a cop wanting to find a fault with the tints. And when he saw the "OK" logo, he let it slip.

nah man, I hear you get peeps intentionally committing crime as its the easy way out. In jail, you get fed 3 meals a day, shelter and bed to sleep in.. etc.. And its all paid for by the ol' tax payer..

let me know how you get on!

Which is why best motoring has a section that assesses a driver's ability to drift a stock car. Read stock MX-5.

i followed the forum thread on that last year... was pretty cool to see it all come together!

fixed

I paid around that for mine the last time.. I think added $20 on top of that for the dyed variety because of suspected (now confirmed) leak. Quoted 90 bux to replace the hose from the pump to the condenser. Then having to spend more on regas-ing on top of that.. ><

fuck! $40 bux? Is that the average price for a regas?

pretty keen.. I would probably be up in Aucks by then.. keen to drive down..

can't wait to take part once i get up there...

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,9927.2910.html#msg247058

Double post.

I got the pic. Will upload it soon. Got some racial slur from a passer by while taking the pic. ><

man.. thats a bit far!