nickch

Try paint cleaner and a buffer... Simply Orange is good but will strip paint..

I called strong up asking for the twist clips that hold the solenoid cover in place in my enginebay.. $25 NZD + GST for a single CLIP!! http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-OEM-24236AA010-Emission-System-cover-Clip-/251216230242 am surprised the fuel cap clip was that price..

If performance is an issue to you, you\'d want to stick to wheels that advertise their weight as a strong point. Not only do heavier wheels require more torque to get started, adding heavier wheels add to more unsprung weight which can play a big role to how your suspension performs. Same reason why later model subbies move to inverted struts.

Buying off amazon was a lot cheaper for me. With youshop, you would be paying NZD $17.50 postage assuming Amazon does free shipping. That being said, you could probably pick one up cheap second hand on trademe.

Ah well, giving me a bit of regret picking that 3-port now! What\'s done is done I guess, at least I have my expectations in check. I just hope the guys at Torque aren\'t gonna be too annoyed to have to revamp the WGDC!

Cheers for the feedback Paimei. Essentially, everything I\'ve been reading about the 2-port vs 3-port has been great. Most of the posts on NASIOC, even by members with stock V7,V8s with AccessPorts say they can feel a difference. For slightly more than $100, given that I will be spending 10x that on just the tune, it was a good gamble. I\'ve tried looking for dyno plots that compare the attainable curve with the 2-port vs the 3-port but haven\'t found any yet! Torque Performance guys reckon it will not make a difference.

I\'m wanting to know if it makes more power. Even if it\'s just a little bit, and gains more area under the curve in the bottom end.

Let\'s not draw it out to match the cutties argument of 2010..

I remember back in 2001, when the bug-eye came out, I was gob-smacked. As it was on everyone\'s mind, "What the hell were they thinking?" So it came to a surprise back in 2010 when I picked mine up. It was an ex-colleagues, he was the first owner in NZ, it came with good bits already installed, I would turn 25 that year too. Hell, the price was good, and I jumped on it and bought it. Initially, I thought, \'What was I thinking?\', the hypocrisy of buying a car I used to diss! Prior to that, the only Subaru I\'ve ever driven was my brother\'s RSB. I loved the suspension feel and balance of the car, the gear changes and the power. Getting in to test drive the bugeye was no disappointment. The feeling I got when driving the RSB was recreated in the bugeye, but that much better and less \'weighty\'. I was sold. I thought \'looks was just looks, as long as I enjoyed driving it, which is more important!\' 1 month, 2 months... 6 months down the line, I admit, the stance of the car, the proportions of the bonnet to the rear boot section, the lines and flares from the front fenders extending down the doors towards the rear arches, were at most mesmerising. I would spend hours claying and waxing the car, just to appreciate the lines. At that point, I fell in love with the looks of the car. I came to accept that the bug-eyes almost triggers the inner pareidolia in you and leads you to almost treat it like a humane object. It\'s been almost 4 years so far, and I still enjoy driving the \'blue bug\' as much today as I did when I first picked it up! tl;dr => blue bug good yes! styling good, balance and handling very more good, treat bug like pet!

Yes, most likely going to Torque Performance. I would really like to see if the stock solenoid vs the 3-port makes a difference. But I don\'t know if Dave is willing to put the extra time for it. He says that I will be charged a little extra to tune for a 3-port. Though when I initially spoke to Robin, he mentioned it was a flat rate. He also mentioned, they have done back to back testing between the 2, and he said it makes bugger all difference. But based on what I\'ve read on nasioc, there is noticeable difference and a smoother build up. Well see I guess...

I\'ve picked up a 3-port BCS. Its lets your ECU control your boost with the same precision as most EBCs. Ie, instead of bleeding pressure off your wastegate, you can interrupt and plumb pressure back to pre turbo. So it is possible have your wastegate fully closed at times. Apparently it allows you to come to boost quite a lot quicker. It is not a straight install though, as you need to get the car retuned with lower wastegate DCs to compensate.

There\'s a specific tool for it. never had to change a 2 piston before, but a block of wood would work under the clamp But you could rangi it with clamp of some sort. Bedding in procedure would depend on the brake pads. Most would involve going up to speed, and then hard brake down to a slower speed (not stop)... And repeat several times.. My pagid ones were not very doable on public roads. http://www.braketechnology.com/brakepadbedding.html

Changed my fuel pump... Stunk up the whole underground parking lot ;D

In reply on the other thread as I might as a mod to delete it depending. I might get a second opinion, as I\'ve been enquiring around. Torque Performance said they do a lot of V7s and have gotten a lot of good results. I might call up and ask them a few more questions regarding boost control and power gains etc. Yeah, the EBCs were pretty darn expensive from what I\'ve seen. Mods wise,its in this thread. Any thoughts?

Hi guys, As the discussion on my WTD thread went a bit OT, I thought I might ask here too. I went to visit Soichi at st-hitec today to ask a few questions about ecu flashing to tune my car. It\'s a plain ol\' V7 WRX non-STi.... Don\'t intend to sink any more money on parts, and just get it tuned up so it runs as best as it can with the current mods: STi intercooler 3" turbo back exhaust removed resonator on the intake So the V7 is not really the best platform to see much gains.. TD04-13T and blue injectors don\'t really lead to much. But I was hoping that tuning, at least get the maps correct for the change in exhaust, and hopefully get some added boost to suit. So he mentioned not to expect too much gains, and that it being JDM was better than it being NZ new, but he suggested for me to pick up an EBC as he\'s not comfortable with the ECU controlling boost. So some have suggested 3-port solednoids as well. I\'m not so much looking at a \'what should I get\' answer, but more of a discussion as to why I would need it?

Cheers for all the replies. I will definitely look into it. I\'m currently living in an apartment with very limited garage space, so it\'s hard for me to do my own work on the car. By asap, I was wondering if the repercussions are as bad as (say) the CV boot joint? Ie, lack of grease causing the CV joint to fail and needing to be replaced instead of replacing the boot from the get go. I understand it is important in the CV joint as it is continuously turning, but how much time do I have with the steering rack boot?

Just had my car on the hoist over the weekend for an oil change, and noticed that one of the boots on the steering rack had a tear in it. There is still quite a bit of grease in there, and my WoF did not pick up on it in April. Is this quite crucial to get replaced?

V7 (non-STi) => TD04 => not sure which variation

spotted that on http://www.reddit.com/r/Shitty_Car_Mods/ Here\'s the rear end of that truck.

Yeah, it\'s been tested many times before. Stock air box on a V7 is already pretty good for most cases. Just take off the snorkel, and cover up the hole in the engine bay. K&N do kits, though I\'m not sure of availability in NZ http://www.knfilters.com/cold_air_intake/subaru_impreza_wrx.aspx https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=2560&bih=1315&q=wrx+cold+air+box&oq=wrx+cold+air+box&gs_l=img.3...1292.2826.0.2919.16.12.0.4.4.2.308.1137.9j1j1j1.12.0...0.0.0..1ac.1.17.img.kLZbJRNidTI

I normally start the car up for about 2 minutes before driving off, on cold days. I've heard two different versions about this: One says, to leave it to warm up around operating temperature before driving. And another says, its better to just drive with a low rev limit (no boost), as the driving allows more oil to coat your engine and hence heat up more.. Which one is it?

farkk.. when it rains it pours... sorry to hear about that dude..

wish i could afford the iPauls or even the DLS Ultimates... I have all my gear, welding cable, tsunami RCAs, E-Audio amps in a box... Needs to save up for some dynamat and install stuff before i get my gear in my car.. Never ever want to run my speakers off the headunit.. 19Wrms is not worth having the speakers in...

lol.. I like the P80RS, but I run the Alpine 9855 R myself.. Thats as far as headunits go.. I'm FULLY on the Rainbow bandcamp here... Have a set of 2-way 6" Germaniums.. damn those crossovers are sexy... But I must admit.. the DLS Ultimate Amps are pure audio porn... (go google internal pics)

that motto was the saying back in 04-05 when I was active in NZICE.. still hasn't changed yet today... until a company decides to make a loss at making great amps.. its never gonna change...