KwS

speaking of smeared dip sticks, what is the best way to check the dip stick without it smearing? Mine tends to read high on one side, and low on the other too...

Car: 1996 Subaru Legacy GTB wagon (BG5B) Mods: VF36 single turbo, LinkPlus, rebuilt and forged engine, parallel fuel rails, STI tmic Things You Like: Power. Looks and sounds stock till the turbo spools. Quick spooling turbo. The sound of the turbo. Smooth and comfortable to drive, but handles damn well around corners. What You Dislike: The paint on the front being chipped to hell. Next lot of mods going to cost a bit to do. Forgies smoke on cold start. Why You Bought It: Was very cheap, and was exactly what i was looking for at the time (single turbo legacy) What Your Future Plans Are: front mount, exhaust, dyno tune, front respray, lower.

a big help i found when doing mine was to use a spanner on the coils, not a ratchet. I didnt even have to take the battery out, just need to take your time. Be sure not to drop the spanner though.... mine got stuck in one of my exhaust headsheilds and i had to jack the car up to find it again >_<

lol, just set the rev limit on the link to 3100rpm (exhaust testing is done at 3000rpm) My car runs a stock late model STI BOV, which is plumb back into the intake, and has a boxed pod filter, with no AFM.... its about as loud as an atmo BOV. Good luck banning that from my car.

sounds a bit odd. My linkplus (i assume is G1, not sure how to tell) has a base RPM limit, which is adjustable, and apparently it has a cold idle option which is done in what i think was a percentage. Mine is running 850rpm base, and 60 (%?) cold. Mine hasnt been tuned correctly just yet (hasnt been on a dyno), but everything has been set up correctly. i have stock IACV, and when cold it now idles at 1300rpm, solid as a rock.

And once again.... my baby...