hijacka

I smell a rwd conversion,Weld it up and while the box is out remove the front crown wheel..this way you will never have to worry about matching diff ratios and wheel dia/diff binding again but i have about 10 centre diffs lying around if you want a replacement pm

I run 5w30 castrol edge sport in mine also,(wouldn't put anything else in it), running old g1 ej20t with over 200,000 km..no lifter tick running 5w30 but it did when a bought it, mods are vf22 ,link ecu tuned to 19psi,fmic,yellows etc etc, no evident lifter noise running that grade of old..would never put magnatec in a turbo car as it will flash off and degrade as it can't handle turbo temperature..might be fine for the first week then tick tick taptap..oils fcuked. Repco sell it for about 70slides from memory and supercheap have it for 60 slides.but if you can find it for cheaper than 60slides anywhere supercheap auto will beat there price by 5%..

Yeah heaps listed but non that can answer the question i asked. There is a chart there for a 3pin tps that has wiring colour codes that i already have but none that specifies a 4pin tps sensor and there colour coded meaning. Surely there must be someone else that has upgaded to a v4 manifold that knows which wire goes where..im pretty sure i leave out the brown wire on the 4pin tps but dont wana take any chances Thanks for the link anyway liquid ice..but unfortunatly your still a 'Nob Jockey'lol :

Hi there Im hoping 1 of you can help me out with a wiring diagram of a 3 and 4 pin tps. Or maybe someone has converted from v1/v2 intake manifold to v3/v4 and still using the old loom aswell and knows which coloured wires go were...any help would be much appreciated.. Thanks i advance.

Where are you located?

sorry my bad..you mean stock bov...should be a simple task (one end goes after the turbo and the other end before the turbo) let me no if you need any of this s*** i got lying around. http://images.trademe.co.nz/photoserver/88/147652688_full.jpg

Not a wrx..its better!!..its a bf5 legacy wagon ;D, Same shit different smell eh http://images.trademe.co.nz/photoserver/83/147651783_full.jpg Still cant figure out how to load up photos on here :-\

It sounds like its leaking from the heater hoses.

Nice work ryan. glad to see you got it sorted!

A vf38 twinscroll and a vf22 for secondary

http://images.trademe.co.nz/photoserver/38/146860738_full.jpg http://images.trademe.co.nz/photoserver/27/146860827_full.jpg I dont know how to load up pictures on here yet but here are some from tm from some old junk parts i had lying around... you only need to worry about the white plug that comes off the manual box and the plug that connects to the auto inhibitor switch...on that plug there are 12pins....were it clips in we will call the top of the plug, cut the plug off the inhibitor switch side so you can plug it in to the main loom when finished..on the bottom of the plug there are 4 pins..2 need to be crossed over to eleminate the N safety switch and the other 2 are for the rev lights..so you solder the 2 fatter wires together(1 should be black with white stripe and the other black with yellow stripe)..next is the rev lights...(one black with white stripe and the other red with white stripe)connect the black with white stripe wire to the green with white stripe and of course the red with white stripe to the solid green wire off the box.

I think the pink are mono shocks and the yellow are twintube design...mono shocks are more suited to the track and twintube are more suited to the road..i'd pick neither and buy new ones.

I got a tdo5h in peice in a box for 80bucks, slapped it together and the same thing with the housing Less than a mm out..it didnt have a clamp with it thou so i used one off a vf38 i have on the rebuild..(perfect fit)..the cars daily driven, no boost problems at all.

Suburb or what City your in mite help there fella.

Also on the back of the box there is a metal plate bolted to a small alloy cover, and the stabilizier arm for the gearshifter is bolted to the side of that metal plate..also on that metal plate there are 2 studs poking out of that plate and thats were the exhaust bracket bolts to it..you will need to put this backet on before you bolt up the crossmember.i'll have on floating around somewhere if you want it just pay for frieght like $5.00 or pm me and pickup for nothing if your in chch.whatever suites

To continue Please insert $50 note into slot.. *$$note slot$$*

I have seen plenty of them do this including my own which i haven't had a problem with it since i fixed it. Yours may still be held on but have slack in the rivets hence why its not opening sooner or later and as much or less than before. Sometimes it can cause the valve not to seat properly aswell and cause idle problem and stalling and backfiring because its created a vac leak.

use 'inox'.doesn't dry out or wash off either like 5.56 and seems to penatrate alot quicker than other similiar products i have used. inox has got me threw some pretty rusty situation with ease

Part of your problem with lack of noise is the bodgy, small and excessive heater hoses that connect the bov to the intake, it would be much better get a adaptor to mount it straight to the intercooler ..i use to have a similiar bodgeup job(much worse than yours!!just enough to call me rangy!!!lol) when i had a topmount, have since fitted the same valve straight to the piping when i finished the frountmount and has a different note altogether..I think whats happen to your valve is the rivets that hold the cap of the valve to the stem have failed..WHY?..because as your vac line wasn't connected to the valve when you changed gear,the thottle shut and the pressurized air had nowhere to go and has put pressure on the cap of the valve forcing it out and shearing it from its rivets that hold it to the stem..if you look down the pressure side of the valve you will see a stem that connects to the cap at the end via some rivets. you can fix this problem by plastic welding it together instead.

I think as long as the bracket that bolts to the back off the box is attached and bolted to the exhaust then should be sweet

sounds like you have popped the rivets that hold the valve in place.*kind of hard to explain* you can plastic weld it but you will need to pull it apart, if you look into the pressure side of the valve at the end of the stem you will see what im talking about..best you fix it before possible turbo or engine damage. or buy a non hks ssqv(replica)..internally they are exactly the same as the hks ssqv..goodluck

Im guessing you did it the other way around...i have tried to fit twin turbo headers to a early rs ej20t longblock before and im telling you the passenger turbo uppipe does not clear the back the head...that im sure on.

It would be heaps easier and cheaper to source a td05 single turbo setup than a twin scroll setup as others have said.. but if your really hooked on a twin scroll idea, i have a vf38 currently on the rebuild...was going to use it on a twin turbo setup along side a vf22 when ive upgraded the engine etc.. but im honestly quite happy daily driving the old bf with a td05h at the mo and i need cash$$$..so if you want it pm. cheers

I would use the heads off the twin turbo as well.. the passenger side turbo up pipe doesn't clear the back of the head on the earlier single turbo engines.

Why not make your own up instead of bolting on a factory wrx one? Heres one i made up awhile ago http://images.trademe.co.nz/photoserver/62/137620662_full.jpg Having seen wrx scoops and vents on galants and legnums makes me reluctant to put one on mine, so im happy to make something up thats original even thou it was a mission.