Would be interesting to see the comparison boon! others seem to run those small bep housings and claim they don't choke
Yeah ok i'll flag that idea then guys and go t.s on it eventually with the 16cm housing
Quick-Spool-Valve.
Look at options to mount hx35 holset it has a 16cm housing so looking to either machine a small single scroll housing or keep the twin scroll and run a QSV in the flange. I here they flow well in small housings without choking. Not aiming for big numbers just something simple to drive and that works,best bang for buck. thats why i was wondering if anyone had hands on experience with a QSV. I remember someone on here talking about them awhile ago(think it was you clint) seemed like a good idea anyway but looking at ebay a qsv kit is around $700.. at that price i think i would rather buy a garrett housing an machine it to fit?
How much do you think cost would be boon to fit one to a flange with a external arm on it.. I could supply flange
No your sounding hori.
Every thing is different, the steering column and the hole that the steering column goes threw, the loom, the heater controls, electronic vs cable speedo..Is your going to that then you need to change everything absolutely everything.. no idea about repinning but i don't think that would end very well.
Hmmm Just don't breath it in very dangerous.. a $2.50 can of degreaser is alot cheaper than say $15 engine start or why, Don't get me wrong i've used it and found leaks with it but because the degreaser soaks the area its more likely to enter the intake through the areas of concern rather than a atomized spray like engine start that also vaporizes quickly
i've used supercheap degreaser in a can to i.d air leaks with great success.. get it idling and warmed to where problems seem to occur and spray around areas of concern plastics manifold gasket areas, injectors etc. if theres a leak then idle with fluctuate when you spray in that area.
Deceived me this picture, looks like theres a cutout in the side of the bucket making it look like it was shim over.. there HLA, I wouldn't use them personally.
I use the old seal press it up on the new one thats in place and tap it in. make sure its clean though.. Clean the new seal and block with brakeclean or similar use grey sealant on outer part of seal or it will leak, i use bit of Vaseline on mating surface of seal as well before installing to keep it lubed till the oil reaches it.
Yeah xforce fitment is a issue because it doesn't fit, had issues on gc downpipe hitting steering column, length cut and welding piece to make it fit with bolt on kits lol, you diffenatly get what you pay for there(FA),seeing you have mix then just go mild steal on it. FWIW Rage systems work well for price imo
depends on type some have nothing stamped on them.. The give away is the casting marks(the pattern you can see on the bottom of the piston)on cast pistons.. forged are smooth
Its days like these you need to shop around and do your research before buying from retailers of over priced Workshops or you might end up with noisy chinese water pumps and bearings and seals that leak
But don't worry i've done the research for you lol...
Heres where you buy your cambelt kit http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Gates-Racing-Timing-Belt-Kit-Tensioner-Water-pump-Subaru-WRX-STI-TCKWP328RB-/251383054774?hash=item3a879901b6&vxp=mtr
Why? Stronger Kevlar belt, All double roller bearings, full faced water pump and the small idler bearing is double instead of single as well.
Subaru Genuine for thermostat, thermostat seal and front oil seals, and oil pump O-ring o add another 100-150 and you have a decent kit for 600-650