Koom

Bumper is mostly finished, just needs a final polish after I re-painted it from grey. As per usual, nothing fits properly and it\'s all a bit rough but that\'s also how I like it to look. If it was too nice and shiny I\'d be worried about taking it on gravel

Today got it to 96.46% compete. Nearly fitted up the k&n pod filter but got sidetracked...

At least build a heat shield for it!! I like the satisfaction of minor maintenance jobs. Same as spending ten minutes scrubbing the inside of the wheels to get the last of the brake dust off. As for the big maintenance jobs, .... Meh haha

Or if you don\'t follow the instructions you can over oil the filter and run the risk of excess oil blowing through the filter. My point, is that it is within the realms of possibility that an oiled filter can screw the AFM. You can\'t deny that, then call yourself a logical or reasonable person. I wouldn\'t deny that it is indeed a possibility. In all likelihood, it appears that it is likely a common cause. But then on the other hand, I\'ve never seen proof that they are definitely going to kill an afm and that if it doesn\'t, then you\'re in the 1%. There\'s many things that can be highly detrimental to our cars if incorrectly used. Boost control being another one that comes to mind. But it\'s all managed risk IMO. I personally prefer washable filters because I get sick of buying paper ones all the time and I generally just default to k&n. Probably due to marketing and ease of finding them in stock locally.

Or if you don\'t follow the instructions you can over oil the filter and run the risk of excess oil blowing through the filter.

I had an afm fail on a completely standard intake setup. What correlation do you want to derive from that fact I\'ve heard of heaps of other people with the same situation. Also my engines only blow up when I put petrol in the tank. I can take from that fact, that fuel is the only cause of big end bearing failure...... Man made global warming.

Its not just extra castor that this achieves and that is really secondary to the intent of changing the angle of the bottom arms to modify the lift/dive characteristics of the front of the car. In saying that, I don\'t remember noticing a difference in the self centering.

Foam. With a bellmouth. http://www.ebay.com/itm/350692119468?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 I like the nice bellmouth for the intake. I was thinking about one of these but I had a 6" K&N and found that Blox make a 4" to 6" bellmouth adapter which worked out perfectly for me.

Same reason that I\'ve always used them and about to put one on my BMW as I\'d rather just clean a filter than throw it away and buy a new one. (Also, only ever had an AFM die when I still had a factory filter in my GTB. Correlation doesn\'t equal causation.)

Ahh ok. I always think that if someone is serious about changing to non-PS, they are definitely going to need one of these

Was that to convert to electric power steering? I always thought the MR2 electric pump conversion was just to replace the belt driven pump and wouldn\'t require modification of the rack itself?

No worries. I\'ve been meaning to do a step by step with photo\'s for years but always thought about taking photo\'s only after I actually finished the job. Its pretty basic but also easy to get yourself lost due to measuring off unreliable surfaces. I\'ll see if I remember to take some pics when I check the car again before it goes for a re-cert. Also, make sure the strings are exactly the same distance apart on both bars. As they must be perfectly parallel. Don\'t get caught out by the front and rear track being different widths. Its possible to measure down to 1/3rd of a mm using a steel rule but also don\'t get caught out by dented rims etc which will throw the measurements off. Best bet is to measure, then roll the car forward and re measure everything. I use the spigot of the hub in the centre next to the CV nut as a datum for setting up. Don\'t use the end of the CV joint.

Why not look at putting in an electric power steering pump from something like and MR2? if you want to remove it for aesthetics. Or fabricate a bracket to mount the pump at the bottom of the motor and then run a remote reservoir somewhere else. Also if you put anything wider than factory wheels on it, that\'s just going to compound the world of hurt that you\'ve created if running without P/S and wanting to do anything other than drag racing.....

You need to look up doing an alignment using stringlines Basically, set up two equal length bars (one either end of car and about 300mm wider than the car) at the height of the hubs. Then run parallel strings between those bars, down both sides of the car. Using a steel ruler or the depth gauge on some verniers, measure to a datum on each wheel to centre the strings on the car. Then you can measure to the front and rear of each wheel to calculate the toe. Works really well, is accurate if you can measure accurately, and is fast to setup and check. Also make sure that its sitting on a flat piece of ground. I use bars that can be zip tied to the bumpers so then I can roll the car back and forwards if I need to jack it up to make changes.

Depends on where you\'re going to place the two turbo\'s doesn\'t it? If they can both drain vertically back to the one head, then a Y joint on that side should suffice. If they are being placed one on either side, then you\'re better off with TT heads (could also just drill out the LH Head off a single turbo motor and fit a drain fitting into it). Or can get extra fancy, build a wee sump for the two turbo\'s to drain into and then run a bilge pump to drain that back into the motor just like they do on front (bottom) mounted turbo\'s. Both the TT and the single turbo heads have the same oil galleries and the single turbo heads just have a bung fitted instead of the oil line. Flow wise, the TT heads are generally similar to the STI heads of the same model year.

Couldn\'t lots of toe out do something similar too?

Only if you are willing to remove some sheetmetal and bash the sh** out of the bottom of the wheel well in the boot. The Legacy wheel well sits lower (full sized spare vs space saver) and the swaybar has a U bend in the centre to go under the brace that\'s underneath the well. As for a straight, easy fit. The answer is No.

Put some bog on some small, inconspicuous cosmetic items (bumper) and currently waiting for it to dry.

BP\'s website says that the one at Frankton Arms near Queenstown itself has 98. But then it also shows the Cromwell BP as only having 91 and Diesel. So not sure how much to trust their website...

B4 2000 has also hosted the 1998-2003 full manual ready for download. http://sdrv.ms/15Q1lzO (It opened for me the first time, then it wouldn\'t the second but I could still click the file and download it directly from the Skydrive link)

As an addition to this, I just downloaded an extension for my browser to automatically translate to English to make it easier to navigate those links (for anyone who isn\'t aware of how to easily read foreign websites)

This topic has been moved to Workshop Manuals. [iurl]http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?topic=40402.0[/iurl] Moved to the workshop manuals section.

Its not a supercharger. So just because the turbo could be producing 15psi somewhere around 3-3.5k rpm\'s, doesn\'t mean that it is always doing so. If you are cruising at a constant speed, on a flat piece of road, even if you are at 5k rpm\'s (don\'t know why anyone would cruise at 100kph in 3rd but for the sake of discussion lets say its happening), then you are using the same amount of fuel as a non-turbo. Its only when you accelerate and put a higher load on the motor that the turbo will then start doing its job and fill your engine with boost. If you put a boost gauge in. You\'ll see it go up to full boost when you floor it and then the boost will fall back into the vacuum range once you start cruising at a fixed speed. If you want better economy, buy a Primera.

I generally do the furtherest one first and work my way forward because thats how I was told to do it. If its really old fluid, I have been known to bleed the front, then the rears and then back to the fronts again to make sure I\'ve gotten as much of the old stuff out as possible.

Have you checked that a) the cam timing is correct? and b) are you absolutely 100% sure the correct cams are in the correct spot with the right shims on each lobe etc? (I have witnessed the exhaust cams in the intake spot and vice versa installed and it didn\'t run too well!) But that video definitely sounds like top end noise as there\'s one bit of the video where you can here the normal piston slap of cold pistons under the rattly noise. It sounds similar to when someone from one of the old forums turned up at my house with his car making a noise and it turned out the cam caps weren\'t tightened and one of the shims had fallen out from under the cam bucket.