kris_pran

If your car is low, dont use the HDI kit. The pipe that goes from turbo to i/c runs underneath the car then onto the intercooler. I've had it on the v8 sti, it scrapped everywhere and the only solution i found was to run super stiff coilover setup. Pic to give you an idea. There's nothing special about pipes so avoid paying big $$ for one, the core is what matters the most. Interested to see how you get on with SC42 and from what i know CNDYMAN is making 300kw atw

Passenger side mount lines up fine, drivers side will require alteration. Get a new 90 degree silicon elbow, stock one is too short.

Its already a pita to take the stock gdb i/c on/off the gc8's. I would hate to imagine the pain a bigger one would cause lol and i highly doubt it would fit. When i had a bigger tmic on my v7, it was a very tight fit as well.

No cel but i didnt drive it in test mode. Yes i have had it up to the running temp and heater was on full blast, the coolant is full.

Noob reply but is that the one underneath the alternator? If so then yes its plugged in and ive never touched it before. The only two plugs that removed were the fan connections and since have been fitted back.

All i did was install rad, fill up with fluid, start car, open bleed valve, fill fluid till its full. (Car was parked on a steep angle) Car drives fine and temps are normal.

It can definitely read coolant temps, My logger shows the ecu reading coolant temps.

My stock radiator started to leak from the crimped area so i replaced it with an alloy radiator of trademe. Now it seems that the cooling fans are working twice as much as it used too when the stock radiator was in place. When it reach's a certain temp, the fans stay on until i turn the car off. Has anyone else come across this problem?

Ive had the same exhaust on two of my cars, V8 and V7 STI. Its not loud at all. A bit louder then stock obviously but nothing like a a full HKS or Apexi system. I was thinking of doing a straight 3" pipe without any resonators or muffler just for ****'s and giggles lol I now have equal length headers and 2.5" up pipe on v7 its noticeably louder mid/high rpms.

I received a stainless steel up pipe with a flexi in it. Got the welder to cut that **** out and replace it with mild steel pipe.

Thanks for that boon.

Does anyone know the two correct wires to pick from the factory MAF harness for an aftermarket IAT sensor.

Does anyone in wellington have a tactrix cable on them that i could use or someone who can flash a rom onto my stock ecu. Thought id ask before forking out $200 for a cable.

Hey guys Im trying to install a agency power inlet hard pipe and im having a hard time getting it to fit. Finally managed to get it in there last night I need to know what to do with the hose that connects the pcv valve to the stock inlet. The new inlet doesnt have a port for that hose, im running a cusco catch can so can i run one hose to the pcv valve? Second thing, the black breather line close to inlet needed to be butchered to get it to fit. Can this line be deleted? Any other recommendations as to what should i do with this line. The bov re-circulating hose barely fits need to lift the manifold again to fit it. What a pita!!

Genome's are garbage and sound like utter ****, Get a 3 inch aftermarket exhaust system and call it a day.

If i went with the 2.5xtr then cams would be out of the picture as ive said earlier. currently at 228kw atw cai, turbo back exhaust, bigger tmic, mbc, walbro. At first i thought it was quick but want more power now.

The dom ones were designed for both jdm and usdm models The 1.5xtr was specifically made for the EJ205/207. I think ive exaggerated the \'\'300kw\'\' goal a bit lol.. I\'ll be happy with 280.

Keep discussing guys i dont mind. evowrx - That yellow coupe was aided with nos and water/meth injection, doubt the turbo alone on pump fuel would crack 300 atw and even then its not a option for me due to being rotated. funkytown - Its hard to please you eh ...I\'ve heard nothing but tons of good things about the blouch units on nasioc. Those reviews were good enough for me to consider them an option. Ive been shopping around for prices on the dom 1.5xtr aka GT3071r and 2.5xtr aka GT3076r 1.5xtr - $100 less from quoted price below 2.5xtr - $2180 shipped. Custom duty would kill me but i suppose i could get the supplier to skew the invoice numbers abit But if i do ahead with the dom then the cams would be out of the picture due to budget restraints. Yeah says 345 with no nos but doesnt mention no water meth at that power.. either way as I said that particular car is a good combo but not really applicable to the Kinugawa version in this thread. Getting abit off topic now haha Yep still running meth at that so wonder how it wouldve gone on pump. and yep off topic. [quote name='kris_pran said: Wow, that just contradicts what ive been told from the driven performance guys. They run a TD06SL2 18G on their race car making 300kw (cannot verify atw or flywheel). Most likely talking about atw because no one talks about flywheel power. Marketing their products with false claims What are the alternatives to the kinugawa turbos? I prefer stock location units. /quote] Alternatives are Scoobyclinic/Garrett/MD321/TD06 variants/MSE custom price from highest to lowest. Kinugawa do custom manufacture for similar prices to their on shelf units too flick them an email with what you want. The SL2 wheels make 300wkw on other cars SR20/4G63 etc but dont seem to on EJ20\'s in the states/UK. Without knowing a bunch of tuners on a personal basis its hard to know what goes on in NZ and most people dont have deep pockets to test a bunch of turbos monitoring everything. Scoobyclinic options are rather expensive, mates sc40 barely cracked 240kw atw. Piss poor for a sub 2k turbo if you ask me. MD321 - Would blow the budget as with above as well. Funny you say that about the TD06\'s because i got a call from the owner of driven performance last night, he was telling me yet again he was making 350kw on his 18G, this time i confirmed it was on pump 98oct and 18G @ ST Hitec. At this point i was trying my best hold back the laughter.

appreciate your response looks like blouch turbo for me then btw marc, superleggera looks hnnnngggggg now lol

Wow, that just contradicts what ive been told from the driven performance guys. They run a TD06SL2 18G on their race car making 300kw (cannot verify atw or flywheel). Most likely talking about atw because no one talks about flywheel power. Marketing their products with false claims Minaj cracked 270kw with the same 20g on GCP My supporting mods are Cosworth 272 Cams AEM water/meth injection 860cc Inj FMIC Turbo back exhaust Walbro GFB EBC H/D Clutch What are the alternatives to the kinugawa turbos? I prefer stock location units.

Hey guys, Anyone have experience on the Kinugawa 20g or 60-1 Turbos on their sti\'s? How bad is the lag on the 60-1 compared to the 20g? Turbo is going on a V7 STI, aiming for 280-300kw area, have supporting mods to go with it. TD06SL2-20G Turbocharger with 2.4” A/R 60 Compressor Housing, Billet Compressor Wheel and 8cm Turbine Housing Compressor wheel: 52.5 / 68 mm Turbine wheel: 54.1 / 61 mm SUBARU TD06SL-Garrett 60-1 8cm with 2.4”Cover Turbocharger CHRA Size : TD06SL-Garrett 60-1 Compressor Wheel : 59.5 / 76 mm Turbine Wheel : 61 / 54.1 mm Positive input appreciated.

soo i\'d need a replacement cusco cartridge?

I have the blue colour cusco adjustable suspension on my v7 and everytime i go over a bump on the road or an uneven road surface makes a huge banging noise up front. Is it repairable? Would a bc gold insert fix the issue.

Please see above the email from Phil himself. I chose 23 after the recommendation put forward Boost will fall on top rpm, My V8 STI did the same 22psi peak tapering to 16. So Funkytown are you avoiding this thread like the plague? Could you also expand on what you ment when you said it wouldn\'t take long? Implying that what i said earlier was a lie perhaps. : You need to watch your tone when you\'re addressing someone else on the forum. Sound like the typical keyboard warrior who wouldn\'t have the balls to display that sort of behaviour face to face. VF30 past 21psi out of efficiency range = myth As for ratios refer to first post - http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=513584&highlight=dyno+gear evowrx - A generic map was flashed onto the car and it made 200ishkw on 21psi. Made said power on the dyno sheet printout on 23psi tapering to 16psi. Did about 5 runs on 23psi and power output was same throughout. Holds 23 till 6k from what i can recall. It definitely pulls harder then my v8 sti which was also making 221kw 22psi tapering to 16psi. Im not to sure about why the boost drops all of a sudden on the stock turbos but this has happened with me multiple times. My old evo 8 was tuned to 24psi but tapered to 18 as well, maybe the stock units just cant sustain that sort of boost on the higher rpms.

Please see above the email from Phil himself. I chose 23 after the recommendation put forward Boost will fall on top rpm, My V8 STI did the same 22psi peak tapering to 16.