subieboy

Ouch...

Typical muppet response. So pray tell who is this mystical mate of yours that is as you claim the most experienced 1UZ conversion experts in the country? BTW Those that know would say something like: "James, my mate from XYZ Performance has done the following with these at his track record" - so once again spill the name... The photo is the only one I know of that illustrates the following well: a) Size of the motor (it fills a Commodore engine bay that fits a RB30 motor with tons of room left or alternatively a factory V8... HINT HINT as to size of the motor) b) If you also read the quote you would also see that he couldn't even use the factory manifold as it wouldn't fit, once again due to size of motor.. c) You will need to hack the firewall and transtunnel All this tells you that you need to measure, measure and measure again. Muppet

I was considering putting it into my carry on, but they took it at the gate saying it weighed too much :'( We were having a visit through Europe, just got home on Thursday. Have plenty of pics of stuff in Europe (about 3 GIG's worth... )

They dont last really, and not really any quiter either In the courses I have done where we used chains (mostly HARD 4WD in very poos muddy conditions) we were advised to put them on cross axles, i.e. right front and left rear... Yet to get stuck doing it that way. As for taking out the ABS fuse - If you are an average driver (read if you are not Michael Schumacher or his mates like Loebb etc) leave it in, its there for a reason, generally ice follows snow round the mountain and other areas 1700 Unimog's in 4WD going down hitting ice is fun BTW

When you do those mods, keep using the factory filter and airbox... New AFM's cost an arm and leg and poddies chew this models like no tomorrow...

Just wondering: In theory wouldn't using the heat paint defeat the purpose of having a front mount, since the paint was designed for use on manifolds to hold the heat inside them... ???

I agree - just there right for the plucking...

I have driven a KE30 with the 1UZFE conversion. Your advise regarding ignoring the 8 into 4 cylinder is nothing if not misguided. For a 1UZFE to fit into a KE30 there is generally some serious modification required to the firewall - more often than not the firewall gets hacked up as well as the transmission... Back on topic: Measure to death the engine bay of the Impreza then go find a wrecked vehicle with the 1UZFE fitted (such as the Landcruiser/GS300/etc) and measure the same distances in the impreza (this will give you an idea of what distances you need for clearance)... Then go find a certifier and have a chat with them regarding what you want to do. Best thing in the world you can do dickface is to ignore the old cliche of "My mate says or did, etc" EDIT - Link & stuff below added This guy (^^pic above) actually has done the mod and runs a VL Calais V8i - 1UZ-FE, 4 speed tiptronic and 3.9 Lokka... www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?p=486762 http://images.google.com.au/images?q=1UZFE&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-GB:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=o7_6SYSgEYv66gO2s5CmAg&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&resnum=5&ct=title

As the title says: Subies & The Fuzz. Post up pics that you took on your random travels or not so random travels of Subaru Cop cars. To start, we found this in the Vatican City about a week ago: Must be a good car if the Italians have one : Ps Note the rego - Was very funny

To be honest dear young lady - you are lucky they even informed you of the valuation part... Many insurers wouldn't have even bothered doing that... Also, the way the economy is going they are taking every step to protect themselves from being ripped off/used by unscrupulous people for income (not saying you are, they are treating everyone the same) - By that I mean its a fact that people try to rip off insurance companies and its also a fact that it gets worse with a worsening economy... Hence this being another reason why they referred you to this step. Happy insurance hunting

Automotive running tape is used along the running edge of the lip (thats the top of the lip that fixes to the bumper) and the clips are mainly a u shaped plate that bolts in place with size10 bolts (mine were anyways) Also where and how much you score the lip for - mine is munted

The owner of the company I work has a bloody big snake...

Yea go buy a WRX or GT(B) less money wasted for minimal performance gain...

You said: Loren said: You then said: So my point simply was that Loren gave you advice based on the info you posted then you blast his advice based on that info... ??? I simply was asking why you would question that advice when you yourself said you're too quick with the changes, therefore the best advice based on the information you provided would be to slow down your gear changes... Oh and its Subieboy (No double b here)

Not really helpful, especially since I know in total working order you don't have to sit around and wait to change gears Errr didn't you just post: [quote name='liviy said: Hi, I have a V5 STI and recently it's started to graunch putting it into gear when it's under load and you're too quick with the changes. It feels notchy and if you're slower it seems happier. It doesn't seem to slip and it stalls correctly when you the clutch test with the hand brake on...also the biting point is quite high. I noticed once when I was sitting for ages with the clutch depressed that the clutch became really heavy for the next few minutes and then sorted itself out again. Would that be the clutch/pressure plate/gearbox or hydrolics?

Yes they are "tuned" for 91 RON

Yep the 3.6 was mainly for lower octane fuels: Here is a scanned article on the tripoos: Click on it for larger version or save it...

Seen them around, almost bought one, then went nah Hi-Lux FTW

Buy a bottle brush (the cheapo $4 ones for baby bottles) works fine everytime.... Or Get a small sprayer bottle and mix some carwash with dish washing liquad (50Ml to 10Ml), spray on to the affected areas(DONOT BRUSH/CLOTH IT), Let it soak for 5 or so mins or while you wash the car, Rinse it off with water, Use bottle brush or sponge (soaked in the bucket you are using to wash the car) elbow grease works well here, Should work in cleaning. Repeat if need be

At a guess (if there is a thing such as a power steering ecu) I would say a short of some nature somewhere, maybe moisture ingress, or a wire/connection has lost its insulation... Could it be a relay cotrol box(???) Hey just throwing ideas about here

You might have to check with your insurance company, but I'm pretty sure that means "no cover"...

For auto parts just select year of Manufacture. http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/replacement_sm/subaru~radiator~replacement.html Or better yet here is one for 90 -94 NA Leggies: http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQSubaruQQLegacyQQReplacementQQRadiatorQQ19901994QQP1183.html Here's a pic of what MRT can do: http://www.mrtrally.com.au/performance/photosubaru.htm Also try PWR or any of the following ones: http://nationwideradiators.com.au/ They cover most of the manufacturers (you might even be able to visit your local specialist rediator guy and ask for different brands... NatRad (National Radiator) even make their own...

+1 on the arse backwards, Although is that power figure on 91 (I think the power fig sounds similar to the big behemoth they call an MPV...)

???