THUNDA

The internet lol, but as you can see from this thread there are some people who say yes to bov and others say meh to bov So if you REALLY needed a bov, the replies to this thread would be much different Reason i took it off was to see if my BOV was leaking when i had missfire problems Have only driven the subaru 1 since then with the BOV removed and pipe blocked running 14psi, i ran better with no BOV so assuming my old aftermarket one has worn out Tial one has been ordered so it'll be sweet untill then as for the standard BC5 EJ20G BOV it is a piece of S*** as far as im concerned, little black plastic thing, have had multiple leaking BOV's in past BC5s ive owned even on stock boost

Am planning on getting a tune done once ive finished my mods (which im pretty much done with now - just FPR left to do and gonna upgraded to a tial BOV) but was thinking of upgrading to 20g wheel before the tune so when i take it in PBMS can really pull some power out of it. the TD05 16g current in the car is in quite good condition as far as performing well and shaft play goes, it has very little shaft play if any at all So thinking getting my current td05 16g rebuilt and upgraded to 20g with a straight intake like the one evowrx linked me to, then just putting a silicon 90* bend on it woop :E

Sounds stupid but make sure you have gas first then just replace the relay - once they are gone there is no fixing them really if it still works id say fuel pump replacement or bad wiring somewhere, common for my model cars to melt plugs etc dunno about yours

So not this? (assuming ching means chinese?) http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/turbos/auction-1245076321.htm Where would I source a genuine mhi one? from subaru? if soo faaark i can imagine the bill for it lol or do you mean get a genuine td05 16g (i think thats what i have now) and put a kinugara 20g wheel and comp housing if thats the case would the whole kinugawa td05 be suitable or are they S*** too?

Hey all Have been reading alot about TD05 turbos as I was thinking of going to a brand new TD05 with a 20G wheel, before I send her in for a tune Getting conflicting information about where or not I need a BOV, is it ok to just delete the bov (will cause compressor surge but have read the td05 is not phased by it) and get it tuned without a BOV or keep the BOV in place and run a stronger BOV, then take it to tune Any help super stoked

yeah just bent the hell out of it, rubbish to me now that ive got the factory air intake, just waiting on the mounts to arrive so i can bolt it down, pretty sure thats how the factory air intake pipes would have split from all the flopping

Legend!! Finished my mock intake after finding a split in my stock piping, piking up proper joiners to make it fit snug tomorrow and omg F***ing nearly peeled my skin off - my new bosch spark plugs was my missfire headache the whole time when they first went in they worked, 1 drive later they caused the whole F***ing missfiring problem (after replacing nearly every spark related item for brand new parts and that headache with the injectors and overheating cost me close to 1000$) NGK all the way

Turn your car on so its running, then unplug the afm, if motor turns off as soon as you unplug it then it may not be afm if it does nothing when you unplug it, then its likely to be afm

Loner said Hard driving makes exhaust hotter - which i definately agree with evowrx said exhaust gets hotter during cruize speed - if you when you tune it you decide to run lean at low revs This thread isnt about either of those things but now Thatguy knows if the exhaust gets too hot when he drives his car hard, he cant pop into a tuner and get a Link computer installed and then get it tuned so it can also run hot at low rpm too i love this family of ours, merry xmas

There was no caring mentioned at all in the clubsub terms and agreement registration page The saying "Who cares" isnt actually a question asking who is caring

I would leave them on, as they are designed for the car by subaru they probably kick ass at their job If you do remove them to inspect for cracks, You are almost definately going to snap at least 1 of the old 10mm bolt heads off, this can become extremely annoying when you go to put them back on, because with just 1 bolt not doing its job you will get a rattle noise (I speak from experience lol) Havnt had a factory set of headers / up pipe crack out of all the RS' ive owned

Yes, driving your car with a heavy foot will make the engine get hot Yes also Who cares

the o2 sensor is the expensive one (or in your case x3)

Irwin have a tool for it, I have a set designed for screws which works great with old timber S***, Most Irwin products are good quality so id imagine they would do the trick http://www.irwin.com/tools/screw-bolt-extractors/9-pc-fractional-bolt-extractor-set

Got it back from mechs today, $500 later Fault was a seized thermostat - even though i know it wasnt seized as i boiled it, it must of just been old as F*** and not performing properly Got them to install the new walbro fuel pump, they opened it up, of course the last owner had already installed the exact same fuelpump they couldnt tell me why it was smoking but it stopped by itself, maybe engine was mega flooded with gas and o2 sensor was kicking up a fuss New oil / oil filter / coolant / power steering fluid and ps resivoir she aint ticking no mo! ^ _^

Tried pming subirex automotive but inbox must be full

Pulled the thermostat out to check it, its F***ing brownish red looks old as hell but still opened when boiling it in the pot, will tell mech to chuck a new one Yup, followed multiple intructions on here as to filling/bleeding the cooling system, meh im over it just gonna get a pro to look at it, auctions are tomorrow so hopefully I come home with a V5 V6 wrx then ill do the transplant into the RS its not pushing water out or anything, heater blows hot air when engine warm, pretty sure its just my lack of mechanical knowledge havnt let the car go over 3/4 temp and car doesnt over heat while driving, maybe waterpump happened to run out at the same time also thinking the smoking is one of the injectors no seating properly or its just burning off all the fuel that spilled into the engine during injector change im not letting this car die ever so it will be fine

Sweet so got all cylinders firing couldnt sort it with the greys so yellows back in untill i find a set of greys and get them serviced sweet got my power back but not sweet, car now overheats and smokes like a bitch -______- fukn fuk super tired of it now, tried bleeding it and all that S*** just gonna take it to the mechanics arrrrrggggggggggg, hopefully i get it back before xmas really wanting the rs to cruise around with on my only 2 weeks of the year off

Yup dont think its a injector plug problem because the cylinder thats misfiring is different every time i uninstall / reinstall the injectors\\ i.e car before i put greys in - all cylinders running car after i put greys in - rear left cylinder not running at all car after i took greys in and out again - rear right cylinder not running at all car after i put yellows back in - front left cylinder not running at all You right, it does seem easy, car was running mint on wednesday but i had to go and F*** with it didnt i

So decided to take a greys out so i can have them serviced Put the yellows back in, one by one carefully with oil on both o rings Plugged it all back in and.... Front left cylinder not firing now all others are sweet (that cylinder was running with the greys) Front left cylinder was the last injector I installed, which is why its interesting that that particular one isnt working as Rear left injector was the last one I installed yesturday and that one wouldnt fire either . am I supposed to depressurise the fuel lines while im installing them? was thinking maybe because its the last one to go in that it cant find a nice seat because as you push the injector in theres nowhere for the air to go? Also, pretty sure engine will be flooded with petrol now so could the front o2 sensor potentially be shutting off a cylinder as its reading super rich levels?\\ Yup if i cant sort it this weekend ill just take it to the local mechanic

Would putting a little oil on the o rings help/.?

Nope, didnt have to touch the rails when removing injectors from pickapart so just installed them in the same way, grabbed all washers and o-rings at same time as the greys So I got a stack of 0-rings and washers and injectors - have removed them all and inspected thoroughly and replaced Am just going to get another set of 6 second hand ones and get them checked/fixed by the pros Weird thought - 2 Front cylinders run sweet with the greys so those greys are staying for now but the 2 rears are dodging me out because the remaining 2 greys either both dont go (car running on 2 front cylinders only , or if I swap them (the same 2 just from left side rear to right side rear) I get the passenger side rear cylinder running again (so running on 3 cylinders in total) Have established its definately injector related though, as I checked each plug for spark against the engine, with the net coil/leads/plugs im getting very good spark all all cylinders But with car running I cant get drivers side rear cylinder to work at all, not even with a working yellow in it Checked flow into rails and out seems normal but got no pressure obviously so darn brain racked I gave up for tonight Gonna get a compression tester tomorrow too just to get an idea of how much compression the lil motor still has

Put 2nd hand grey injectors into the BC5 RS Now misfiring on 1 cylinder Tried many fixits but given up for today - got a quote for new ones - 3 weeks wait ad 370+gst EACH, flip flip flip gonna get 5 more and get them serviced

Progress, took spark plug out of the rear passenger side cylinder - was soaking went, dried it up chucked it back in now running on 3 drivers side rear cylinder not firing, took injector out and plug a yellow in, still didnt fire took plug out, wasnt went, was really black carbony, so cleaned it up, but doesnt fire did the stethoscooe trick, they all tick (greys) less smokey now but still puffing whitish smoke, no thick though

Got 5 Greys from pikapart today, closer inspection showed 1 had a hairline crack Visually other 4 looked good Put them in Car only running on the front 2 cylinders Trying to find some brand new ones im sick of 2nd hand S*** failing on me