EJ20T

The Ver 1 WRX RA also comes with alloy bonnet, lower A arms, I/C water spray and a close ratio G/B

Lowering the steering rack in a subaru isnt the smartest idea as its already too low in the first place, but at the end ofthe day its the operators responablity to keep the thing under control.

what he said

O2 sensor or AFM

bad coil

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e2N5LXSIpsA this video is prodrive putting a RS together, shows some of the suspension items, and also the hubs, which are nothing like stock ones

ha still looks like a land cruiser in that photo

This car got me into subarus, i went out to the motu in 93' with my dad, colin in full flight, the sound of it, he then went on to win, i was a RS fan since that day. Group A is still the coolest catagory in rallying, im sorry but these cars are much more exciting to watch than the WRC cars. And no under the group A regs you had to use a stock exhaust manifold, hence the change in sound once WRC regs came in in 97'

Both above are correct, u wont get more than about 1 deg, if you cant get close to 1 deg id say something is bent, rear camber isnt adjustable, but id personally recommend lowering it, the geometry of the suspension itself will add camber, and help the rear wear more evenly

This is all speculation at this point, theres no need to be 1.6L to re-enter the WRC, shit there was no need to even have a 2l impreza in the 97-2010 WRC era (besides grp N homologated cars). It would seem subaru are pretty focused on the BRZ, FT86 atm so it may be awhile before we see a next gen wrx prototype.

if you lower that priate ship i bet it will start wearing them more evenly

have u checked it doesnt have a air leak, pointless changing stuff just to end up fixing a silly leak

If the car was lean during the entire run id take a guess that its not the fuel pump, as if that was the case it would likely get leaner with increasing revs and prob develop a miss at high rpm and load. sure it doesnt have a air leak between the afm and turbo? bad afm or bad fuel reg, split vac line etc

I'll back that, id say one of there service muppets (we have them at mitsubishi too) cracked the ceramic on the plug during retarded install

I had re001's on my b4, and a mate did a couple track days on them and they held up pretty well, no chunks tearing out of the shoulders and surprising amount of grip when warm. are you getting outside edge wear just on the fronts?

Im sure theres a 12 month rule, it used to be for NZ's moving to aus, but maybe thats changed now?

Oh yeah, hes obviously a ass jockey.

ive driven a ralliart lancer on them, were quiet, seemed to have good grip (only a short drive so hard to say in all conditions). deff better than the stock yokos that came off

also you need to have owned it for 12 months too

Hes now eaten his words, fag. Ive seen rskikin's BC on there, really like how the bottom of the front bumper has retained its stock look

what part was ver7?

The heads look like EJ206/8 BH/BE GTB/RSK heads being 8 bolt rocker covers, shim over bucket and having oil and water feeds on both heads

Ive left that as a link on his trade but he still refuses to accept hes wrong, that above car is pretty nice, wish i had that kinda money!!

No, i read your post, and noticed how it had nothing to do with the topic. People care about what model they buy because the entire point of having different spec's, models, versions what ever, is that they are infact different. And yes sure you can buy a 1992 wrx for like 4k and spend 38k and end up with a much faster car, but then all you end up with is a modded 19 year old GC chassis car thats bearly driveable on the road that will resell for like 15k. Also to add, i started the thread so i assumed your post was directed at me

Out of interest what are you gettin scoobs? i see the sti on TM atm