nah i thought there may have been an ideal cars down there
credit union done my loan and i had the choice to go with pioneer
sucks man i know that f*@ked up feeling
mate gutted!! f@cken low life fu*kwits. i see you bought it from ideal cars!!
it now seems that if you buy a subaru off them its bound to get stolen!!
my V4 typeR and 2 others that i know come from ideal have been stolen, now yours!
did you buy it from wgtn?
sounds like valves to me! did they replace the valves or did they cheap out?? they should always wire brush the rim and seal the bead as standard practice regardless so it only leaves the valves.
a drop of oil into the valve stem before adding air has worked for me in the past. refreshens the rubber seal for a while also you may see a bubble of air coming through the oil too
installed a rwd box till i rebuild my oe one!! only to find out that the box i pulled out wasnt the original one for the car! same ratios tho so i guess thats not too bad
need new CVs now lol
ok...im looking at buying a "97 v3 sti type r" but when i car jammed it it comes back as just a 97 subaru impreza ???, when i qn'd him about it he said "its got dccd, only sti's have dccd" ???
mate i had 97 sti typeR and it was registered as a "97 subaru impreza" car jam "DRB26"
ring a subaru parts dealer and see what a 2nd hand one is worth and go from there
i need a gearbox and a 2nd hand one unknown condition is upwards of $1k or more if i try for one the same
is it new zealand shyte or ex japan shyte??
use the degreaser and the "red hose brush" with soft brissles. i think you can get them from bunnings or the warehouse. if you let the degeaser soak for a couple of mins (watch out for chemical runs on you front guards) the brush should take it off mint!
i used to be a "car appearance tech" (groomer lol) and imports were thick with smog!
the heated water will def help there!
merc is right!
even if you dont have "4pots" some good quality pads (bendix ultimates) and high temp brake fluid (dot4/5, motul rbf600) will do wonders. cheap pads dont do a good job
then look at slotted rotors (discs) for better bite and less fade.
if you do have "4pots".... do the same as above and they will be even better still
if youre not pulling up from 200k more than 3times in 2-3mins than you probly wont need to do the fluid but would be a good idea to bleed them with fresh fluid anyways
i agree with boostin
do the clutch fluid the same time as the brakes
on my V4 it was missing the heat sheild and the heat from the turbo used to boil the fluid and the clutch would get sucked to the floor!
so that was my reason to bleed the clutch. just do it if you can be bothered. one of those "100k" service things
they're a Silvia.. girls car!! haha my good mate has a specR and i give him stick about being a girls car. his ex used to have a specS. its the top non turbo model. kinda like the integra typeS in the new shape
brakes & bushes!! how deep is you pocket? do it your self if you know what youre doing
would be a good idea to flush the brake & clutch lines
how hard do you drive her? shocks!
plugs and leads.... water pump and cam belt... the list goes on lol
on a budget?
swaybar bushes and links, clutch & brake fluid. wiper motor rubbers and arms (if they're loose) theres the good part of 2-3 hundy
he mustnt have driven a gc8 very hard through many corners!! every gc8 ive driven has chassis flex :
depends on the ks and how hard the chassis has been driven over time
S15 specRs (hair dressers car) have "D" factory in the boot
"D" isint high priority but will help in combination with the others.
D will do a bit in combination with a rear strut brace but not too much if the chassis is still sloppy between the front and rear axels. it will reduce the "squash" effect as the weight of the car tries to squash the chassis rails towards eachother in the rear
"d" just helps to keep the chassis as square as possible and the body in the right place to keep the geometry between all four wheels as correct as it can be.
a "must do" if your constantly hammering the track but not so much for a daily/weekend cruiser as metal does weaken over time.
the pics look like a chassis "refresher" to me. all work togeather as a kit type of thing
bragging rights in some peoples minds
yeah mate you got it. i dont want to loose my gear ratios as those of you in the know, will know the typeRs have different to standard STIs
so id rather rebuild than replace. im sure a second hand typeR gbox isnt cheap!!