Jump to content
Please check your junk folder for registration emails ×
  • Current Donation Goals

    • Raised $0.00

Drag racing automatics, what gets done?


BLSTIC

Recommended Posts

I'm talking strictly 1/4 mile stormer here.

What do you guys do to make your automatics last under any kind of power? I'm guessing I should start with an SVX or TwinTurbo gearbox as a base (both are more powerful things that start with EJ bolt patterns), but that's about where my knowledge ends...

Any contributions are welcome, just note that I have no interest in dog boxes or button clutches, the key to drag racing is consistancy...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest keltik

The high stall torque converters make them pretty impossible to drive on the street. Also the gearchanges are brutal. At least thats my experience from being in a modded auto.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest keltik

Someones figured out how to 'hack' the 4AT control system and make the shifts super firm, but because drag racing is a mostly american thing - and americans are scared of japanese treachery - not many people put the time and effort into subaru stuff over there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 keltik said:

Someones figured out how to 'hack' the 4AT control system and make the shifts super firm, but because drag racing is a mostly american thing - and americans are scared of japanese treachery - not many people put the time and effort into subaru stuff over there.

Added to that, most of us put our rally-inspired Jap-rockets through corners ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmm well I'm not too interested in corners. They come with their own compromises. You can still drive a drag car on the streets without a bone-jarring ride. Oh, and no-one in their right mind would expect something that appears to be a GX impreza leave a vapour trail off the start line.

If I do go get another subaru, I'll have to start from the bottom though. A 1500 auto awd impreza should do as a base (basically because it has the right pedals already, and an automatic computer). I think a 250T engine can be made to handle the grunt (with secret block strengthening methods), and I'll see if I can adapt a BD/BG GT gearbox to suit.

However all of those will set me back nearly $6000 for what is really a slightly quick wrx in a plain wrapper... It won't launch hard if I use a big turbo though. But if I build the engine right I can just turn up the wick when I get the cash for the gearbox.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest boostcut

Hmm well I'm not too interested in corners. They come with their own compromises. You can still drive a drag car on the streets without a bone-jarring ride. Oh, and no-one in their right mind would expect something that appears to be a GX impreza leave a vapour trail off the start line.

If I do go get another subaru, I'll have to start from the bottom though. A 1500 auto awd impreza should do as a base (basically because it has the right pedals already, and an automatic computer). I think a 250T engine can be made to handle the grunt (with secret block strengthening methods), and I'll see if I can adapt a BD/BG GT gearbox to suit.

However all of those will set me back nearly $6000 for what is really a slightly quick wrx in a plain wrapper... It won't launch hard if I use a big turbo though. But if I build the engine right I can just turn up the wick when I get the cash for the gearbox

how do you figure that? you can make anything launch hard with any turbo. maybe talk to a pro about drag racing and find out the facts and cost.. because if you want to even see a 250t engine handle the jandle. 60k will be you budget. not 6

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not with a standard torque converter you can't. It doesn't matter how long you stall it, if the turbo is too big it won't get on boost. Not without nitrous or anti-lag anyway.

And how do you figure it would cost $60,000? I'm not aiming for a 7-flat down the quarter, I'm aiming for a fast car that can still be street driven. A fast street car is anything in the 12 second range.

BTW, the problem with the 250T engine is the fact that the top of the bock isn't supported. That isn't a major engineering task to fix...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest boostcut

12 second? you dont set your goals very high. you could do a 12 in a standard wrx freeboosting a vf22 and some sticky tyres.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No, but I did imply using a standard gearbox before I get the cash for a big one. Meaning a standard torque converter as well. Anyway that's not the point.

EG33? Too rare. EZ30R, now *THAT* would be awesome. But both are expensive.

6 cylinder noise FTW thoguh

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest keltik

EZ30R is more rare and more expensive. EG33 is a shitload easier to build as its all EJ22 parts. Do some research.

Also with a standard box, you can wire up a system of push buttons for each gear which will give you an instant shift at full line pressure. Cant remember where i read up on it - but its not that hard to do.

Also Id hook up a switch to the duty C solenoid so you can lock the center fully for launches

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm aware of electronically controlled gearboxes. Two solenoids control the shifting, a third controls the line pressure, a 4th controls the torque converter. Two others help with shifting smoothly, and the last does the 4wd system.

Depending on how bad it slips I can modify the signal to the line pressure solenoid to make the shifts firmer, or I can have one switch that disables the auto computer and another two for shifting.

If I use a later model gearbox (ie B4 era), don't they have constant 4wd, and the clutch just locks them? I know the early boxes are FWD with computer controlled rear drive though...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest keltik

Correct, You'l be wanting a Lancaster VDC auto or certain forester models with the good center diff. Or just swap the tail housing off one of them onto whatever box you use. On the forester owners forum they have a real good thread about the swap to the VTD center diff instead of the MPT one. The guys 60ft and 200ft time improved immensely.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well all of these useful things add up...

I should be able to get a single wreck with most of the good bits in it, you would think. But then again, if I move back to dunedin I know a few people who do subies regularly, so I might not have to put up with two cars in my yard.

That's enough plotting for tonight though. Proper research tomorrow, then I'll decide

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 keltik said:

EZ30R is more rare and more expensive. EG33 is a ****load easier to build as its all EJ22 parts. Do some research.

Not Quite... EG33 is lossely based on the EJ22 but most things are different.. for a start the pistons are different to EJ22 pistons..

Only thing that I can think of the top of my head that is the same is Conrods.

Infact theres bearly any thing you can use off a EJ22..

To build one its really big money.

You will also run into cooling problems...

They are a good engine tho

I plan to do a major build sometime down the track on my EG33.

Theres guys still trying to sort out problems with there builds...

Im just waiting on some more fixes to go ahead and see how they prove them selves.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recent Status Updates

    • MrSg9Sti04

      Afternoon team,
      im new to the group first time posting. Im hoping some body can help me get my launch control all dialled in on my link g4x. Ive had the computer and car all tuned from chris at prestige awesome knowlegable guy super happy with the results but now im wanting to get my launch/anti lag all dialled in. Ive been reading multiple different forums etc all with different conflicking information which has made me nervious with what do i listen to this or that if you get what i mean. Now ive started to make myself familiar with my PClink software etc the past few weeks and im eager to learn how to do minor setups or tweaks etc so im not relieing on my tuner so much and obviously saving myself abit hurt in the back pocket. 
      Now back to the question at hand.... Im wondering if theres and one who could please share there knowledge and wisdom with setting all my values, timing, fuel etc when i have launch control armed and engaged, or even a launch tune file they can possibly send me to load onto my tune. Ive figured out the setup of my digital inputs turning launch control on etc and its obvisously on its pre set factory settings. It engages but doesnt sound the greatest or as angry as it should i feel. Hence reaching out to you good buggers. 
       
      Cheers in advance for any info and help yous maybe able to give me.
       
      Cheers Shaun
      · 0 replies
    • Joker  »  gotasuby

      updated your DP's too : hope that's ok!
      · 0 replies
    • Joker  »  SAS

      Updated your DP's to reflect your business page  
      · 0 replies
    • Joker  »  Nachoooo

      Updated your Avatar : couldnt help myself  cheers!
      · 0 replies
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    40.9k
    Total Topics
    573.5k
    Total Posts


×
×
  • Create New...