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RS Wont Start


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Hi guys

i have a similar problem to Scoobydoo with my 89 RS on this thread:

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?topic=568.0

Its been miss firing a bit time to time. but now its finnally gone.

it was pretty much running on 2 cylinders then it would stall.

CEL came on, and it read code 11 (Crank Angle sensor) and code 22 (knock Sensor)

i got another knock sensor and from a working engine and replaced the old one, and set it to 60 deg off the rear of the engine (same position as old one)

i disconnected the battery for this for about 24 hours, which should have reset the computer.

i connected all connectors to attemt to clear the codes to see if there was any other faults that would come up.

i went to turn the key and the engine cranks, but wont ignite.

the CEL stays on while this is happening, but when i check it for codes it just flashes consistanly (no Code)

i pulled one of the Fuel pipes off and got my mate to hold it into an old milk bottle while i cranked it, and there was plenty of fuel gushing out, so i know its not the fuel pump.

next i took out 1 coil and sparkplug, earthed the sparkplug, and cranked it a couple of times, and it didnt spark!

About 2 months ago i had done the Rocker cover seals, and replaced all Spark plugs

with Irridiums which i was hoping would have solved the missfiring that it did every so often.

so now im stuck!

in short, i got no Combustion/ ignition, i still have Fuel pressure, new Spark plugs, new knock senor, no CEL Codes ???

Anyone know where the Crank Angle sensor is located, and how do you test it??

Someone also sugested the igniter, but i dont know where that is located either, or how to test it?

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get new coil packs,

if your spark plug aint sparking with new spark then its probably your coil packs,

btw not much point earthing a spark plug when your testing to see it fire

the trick is to leave a gap between a good earth and the spark plug (about 1cm) a spark should jump from the plug to the earth, if it doesn't then there is no spark, and if they are good spark plugs then its probably your coil packs.

a set of 2nd hand coil packs should be fine, subarus arn't prone to frying coil packs as they are in a semi-well ventilated area.

unlike skylines which cook coil packs as often as they stolen, been part of a high speed chase, ditched, and then a cop on the scene shoots a random courier driver

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i put some second hand ones on from my other engine when i did the plugs as the orginigals hd cracks and looked a bit sh!ty, the engine was running fine until it suddenly went.

and surely not all 4 coils would go at once!?!?!

thats why im thinking its the crank angle sensor, as that was one of the codes it was originally Spitting out,

and from what ive learnt ovr the past week, is the ECU uses it to start the engine.

i just dont know what it looks like or where its located?

anyone know?

(when i find out, ill swap it with my other engine, and see what happens)

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 THUNDA said:

a set of 2nd hand coil packs should be fine, subarus arn't prone to frying coil packs as they are in a semi-well ventilated area.

unlike skylines which cook coil packs as often as they stolen, been part of a high speed chase, ditched, and then a cop on the scene shoots a random courier driver

what planet do you live on, subarus are known for having shitty standard coilpacks.

is there some way to measure the voltage going into the coilpack (unplug the coilpack and measure it at the plug i assume) to see if its actually getting power? Should be easy to test with a multimeter, but i dont know what reading it should give.

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I would say your crank angle sensor is broken. Have you replaced it? It is located just under your alternator on the top of the engine, tucked into the back of the belt covers above and behind the crank pulley.

Why worry about spark plugs/coil packs yet? really if you got a crank sensor fault code and a knock sensor code i would have thought replacing them would be the idea. If your crank angle sensor fails you will get no spark, as the crank and cam sensors are used to tell the ECU when to trigger the coil's.

Not sure exactly how to get the crank sensor out (I haven't looked at mine) but from memory it should just be a couple of 10mm bolts.

This seems pretty open and shut. Use the ECU reset method on Legacy central http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm for clearing fault codes.

Edit- its only one 10mm bolt right under the alternator. mines an orange plastic sensor that looks like the cam angle sensor (which is located on the right hand head at the front just behind the cam belt cover)

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Located the crank sensor.

pulled it out, put a spare in from my spare engine. turned the key, no change

now brings up code 11 (crank angle sensor)

i put the onld one back in, that too now brings up code 11

so put the new one in, now it brings up no code, but still wont start.

(I have been disconnecting battery between each change, and all fuses look fine)

Its not the coil, as its an old skool setup, i have 4 coils, one for each spark plug!

not all 4 would crap out at once, 1 maybe 2 would go. but (correct me if im wrong) that would still cause the engine still fire up the other cylinders

DOes anyone know what resistance value the sensors should read, as both are in the vicinity of 1.0 KOhms - 1.1KOhms

Which is pretty bloody high for a little coil which picks up magnetic fluxs from the crank.

maybe 2 buggered sensors???

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how long are you disconnecting the battery for? i find its best to actually clear the code using the green and black plugs and method on legacy central. If you fix the problem and the fault code is not cleared the fault code will still show up.

With a multimeter set to AC voltage you should be able to measure a +7 to -7 volt wave pattern signal from the crank angle sensor while cranking the engine. If you get a wave signal then it will be reading crank position, or at least not showing a total sensor failure. Check the wiring to the sensor as well, maybe it has been damaged away from the crank sensor.

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Hey man, Cheers for doing that for me!

i have been disconnecting the batter over night , except the last few times, when i was trying to test the 2 sensors that i have.

i have connected the 4 cables( 2 green, 2 white - older ones are white instead of black) as well to try delete the codes,

but correct me if i wrong, but dont i need to drive the car over a Certain speed untill the CEL start to flash consistantly to delete codes?

From what your saying, do i have to some how tell the computer that i have fixed the sensor for it to stop shoing the code?

I will try measure the sensor when cranking today and let you know the results.

Cheers for you help, i really appreciate it!!!

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the CEL's wont stop a correct sensor from functioning.

How ever once the sensor is replaced or back within range acceptable to the ECU the trouble code is retained. I had this problem because i ran mine with no coolant for 10sec when i did my cam belt (as a check to make sure of belt timing). The CEL came on for the water temp sensor. Once i re-filled the engine with coolant the CEL remained until i cleared it.

I had a brain lapse there over the driving part of the CEL clear procedure! i totally forgot that you cant drive it if it doesn't start! sorry dude.

I'm not sure on the sensors resistance reading, I can't find the spec in the Subaru FSM. Mine is off a different EJ engine and works fine with my ECU. I assume if they are the same similar between EJ's, yours should have a similar reading to a functioning one (mine).

However anyone feel free to correct me.

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Ok

the sensor seems ok

its reading back and forth beween .1 and .69 volts

so i have disconnected the battery in an attempt to reset the computer. will wait till tomo.

unless some1s got any beter ideas?????

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