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RAYDEO's Engine Rebuild


RAYDEO

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ok so the story goes...

took her for a 800k drive through central Canturbry and Otago, got home. started up the next day and there was no oil pressure...

turns out the oil pressure release valve was stuck open... so time for a rebuild...

doing as much as i can in one faul swoop... and its costing a pretty penny

New forged pistons

race bearings

clean and reuse rods

clean, check, and reuse crank

new clutch

new cambelt

new water pump

new oil pump

new oil cooler

work started last week with the removal of the engine and pulling it apart. my suspisions were confirmed as it had a cracked piston, hence was done on compresson in one cylinder

Raydeoengine2.jpg

Raydeoengine1.jpg

the block came out of the acid bath this morning.

DSC02259.jpg

then cleaning and boring

DSC02255.jpg

DSC02257.jpg

almost ready for putting back together

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Just ordered parts from Liam...

Gasket set

cambelt

r/c gaskets

water pump

water pump gasket

oil pump

oil pump O Ring

clutch disc

clutch cover

turbo in gasket

turbo out gasket

to a grand total of almost $2K

will take more pics as parts are installed...

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lattest news from Bruse...

"your crank is shagged"

translated it means, at some stage over the last 10 years the engine has run a bearing and so engine has been replaced and the current crank has been ground down (badly) and re-used. long story short i need a new crank...

currently looking at other options like a longer stroke

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clearences have been checked and long block is together... no pics at this stage unfortunatly..

everything should be getting bolted on tomorrow and in the car tomorrow/tuesday...

WOOP WOOP cant wait!

ill post up a full parts list and step by setp once im done...

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after a long night spend slaving away in the work shop....

DSC00124.jpg

heads are cleaned, put together and bolted on

DSC00125.jpg

oil pump, water pump, oil cooler are all on, aswell as a newly painted sump

DSC00128.jpg

Fly wheel is michined and on (thats Bruce int he photo)

DSC00130.jpg

Cam pullies attached and ready for cam belt...

and

[glow=red,2,300]

RAYDEO V.2 IS ALIVE!!!!!!!![/glow]

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  • 2 weeks later...
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ok as promised heres a step by step to building a new engine...

first, find a good reliable engine builder.

someone with a good track record with the specific type of engine you are after.

in this case i used Bruce saxton, ex-engine builder for Possum Bourne.

he had build numerous engines for both race cars and road cars.

DONOT go for the cheapst person you can find.

2. decide what you want, and work out a budget. engine builders will usually charge more on their hourly rate if you scorce your own parts. theres also the chance you will get the wrong parts.

once you have decided on a budget, ad a good $500 to that for bits that may need replacing over and above.

i was quoted $8000, i ended going $450 ove budget as i needed a new crank etc

TRICK FOR YOUNG PLAYERS if your rebuilding your engine due to a buggered bearing make sure you accound for a new oil cooler. you can never garentee you have cleaned out all the metal shards.

3. WORK OUT WHAT UPGRADES YOU CAN AFFORD. etc forged pistons. new computer, race bearings. ported heads. new clutch*, new spark plugs

as the engine is out you may as well replace the clutch and sparkplugs.

allow a good 3 weeks if your builder is doing most of the work.

remember to get your heads hardness checked as well.

parts list:

oil pump

oil seals

water pump

gasket kit

cam belt

tentioner

idelers

rocker cover gaskets (not included in gasket kit as they can be model specific)

turbo in gasket

turbo out gasket

bearings

conrods

pistons

crank

running in-there are any schools of thought on this. according to bruce (remembering he has built many many engines) drive normally, donot full boost, and donot red line untill the first oil change.

Coolent - run on water only for the 1st 4-500 khs then replace with a mix

oil change - first change due when oil show signs of discolouration or 2000 khs, wich ever comes first.

NEVER cold start and plant foot... car needs to warm up

if you have installed forged pistons these will be noisy when cold...

ill add to this post as i remember stuff

cheers

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So did you get those JE's coated? I found out after the engine was put back together that it was up to me, now i has very noisy pistons, lol. the guy's at PBMS were pretty much: "meh" though

As for the run in, yeah i pretty much did the same as what you described. As i got close to 500k's, i slowly started building up boost and rpm. after the run in oil was out, i took another few hunded k's to slowly build it up to redline and full boost. Did another change at 3000k's, and have been doing them at 5000k intervals since. Running castrol edge 10w-60 as per PBMS recommendation for my build (they said anything 10w-60 or there abouts - didn't recommend a brand).

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