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Engine temp comparison


sickmatesick

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For those with a water temp gauge... what temps do you usually have?

Open road I get between 75-80 degC

Around town I get 80-90 degC

Idling after driving, or driving slowly in a low gear (like around a carpark for a while) I get 90-100 degC

This is with a front mount retaining both fans... seem normal? Have my car for sale and am looking to knock any potential issues on the head before sale.

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Guest vf20/21bg5

sorry cant help with the temps but idealy the sender should be as close to the heads or the blocks water jackets as possible as those are where the critical parts are that fail from overheating like headgaskets. and if you have a flow problem like a faulty thermostat or blocked radiator the temp guage will show it up str8 away but if you have the sender mounted in your top rad hose and the flow is not flowing thru the radiator then its not flowing thru that hose too giving a false reading to what the block is at.....sorry abit off topic ;)

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Guest vf20/21bg5
 sickmatesick said:

Will check tomorrow as its pissing down atm, previous owner put it in but the factory temp gauge hasnt worked since I bought it. Thanks for that info CP93MM very helpful might get the radiator shop to look at it before I sell to make sure nothing is mickey-moused

a cylinder leakage test is the one, compressed air is forced into the compression chamber via the spark plug hole at TDC on the compression stroke so everything is sealed off and what that will show is 2 things, 1 you take the rad cap off and see if thr are bubbles or water rising out of rad indicates a partial or blown head gasket and 2 you can determin how the valves are seating by putting yr ear to the air filter inlet or exhaust pipe and if you hear or feel air flow then thats the compressed air getting past the valve seats. It also shows up burnt/bent or chiped valves....plus really worn rings if you take the oil cap off and listen for a certain amount of blowby
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Guest vf20/21bg5
 WRXONP said:

might have the standard gauge sensor removed and the a/m gauge sensor in that spot... that would be an accurate spot wouldnt it?

in the water pipe on the top of the block right by where one of the blocks water jaket out let is? perfect ! thats why subaru put it thr as well as the fan temp sender as so it gets a correct reading str8 from the block near the heads too......ive also removed my standard temp sender and added an a/m one but refused to put one in the top rad hose cause if flow is disrupted by a blocked rad or faulty thermostat then you would get a faulse reading and not realise till its too late that its overheating as i said above 002-15.jpg
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Guest vf20/21bg5
 WRXONP said:

so if one wanted the standard gauge to work and the aftermarket to work accurately then drill a hole there and tap it? or drill it and get a fitting welded on?

if its not a hastle to do so,idealy that would be best but may be too much work, if you want to run 2 guages then put the more important a/m one in where the original one went and put the original sender at the top rad hose with the adaptor fitting. But if you have the manifold off anyway then yes tap another temp sender fitting in
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Guest vf20/21bg5
 sickmatesick said:

For those with a water temp gauge... what temps do you usually have?

Open road I get between 75-80 degC

Around town I get 80-90 degC

Idling after driving, or driving slowly in a low gear (like around a carpark for a while) I get 90-100 degC

This is with a front mount retaining both fans... seem normal? Have my car for sale and am looking to knock any potential issues on the head before sale.

i dont think 100 * or boiling point is too good tho....so who can tell us the perfect engine cooling temp degree? or what temp the fan sender kicks in at?.... cause its the fan sender that the manufacturer has set what temp not to go above ay?....ive read in other forums that 90-95* is good but seems a bit high?
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Guest vf20/21bg5

...reading further it seems that a perfect operating temp for the subaru engine and most cars is 85-95*c with the fan sender kicking in at 93-98*c....so it seems that its a fine ballancing act to keep your engine just few degrees below boiling point at the high end and no lower than 85* at the lower end :-*

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Boiling point in a pressurised system is around 116deg

ECU switches fans on via actual temp not via a fan switch

temps varry depending on model but most are fan on 95* and fan off at 90*

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