clutch flaring

[toad]

hey, i put a h/d clutch kit in car last week and a 2nd hand flywheel which i got machined as my flywheel grew legs and dissapeared for some reason. put it all back together and now the clutch flares. ive had the flywheel and clutch kit bench tested for pressure and it was fine. i never had the clutch cylinder open so havnt needed to bleed it. ive replaced heaps of subaru clutches at work and for some reason my own wont work (typical). any help would be appreciated as the motor has been out 3 times since the clutch was put in as different people had different ideas as to why its doing this. thanks ??? ??? ???

[toad]

also ive been told that the flywheel should have a step on it where pressure plate lives? whats are the specs for flywheels

[Stoffa]

Flat flywheel shouldn't matter, mine was doing the same, pedal needed adjusting as there was no play in it, you should be able to feel a little freeplay before the pedal gets hard. also grease the pin where the slave meets the fork, made a HUGE difference to mine.

+ dont be lazy, bleed it and replace ALL the fluid, brake/clutch fluid is hydroscopic, it natrually absorbs moisture.

[toad]

with my foot on the clutch we can still move the fork back and forward?

[Stoffa]

no i mean when you press the pedal there should be about 15-20mm pedal movement before you feel the fork starting to move

[toad]

will check tomorrow as not to sure

[titian]

As above,.. free play is required to allow fluid to vent back into the master cylinder. By Flare i assume you mean it is slipping? :-\

Also do NOT allow the slave cylinder to "over" stroke...a pedal stop is the best way...put a bolt (10mm AF) through the pedal stop with 2 nuts to lock in place...pedal should only just travel far enough to allow engagement of reverse without crunch.

If the clamp force is correct (above 3000lb) there should be no issue.

Always bleed the slave with it removed from the gearbox mount ensure the bleed screw is upper most to ensure no air....Be careful not to allow the push rod and seal cup to be expelled from the cylinder when you do this! ;D

[Guest]

3000lb? Is it an autoclutch? or did i miss something...

[titian]

 evowrx said:

3000lb? Is it an autoclutch? or did i miss something...

a general stement...a heavy duty clutch should be at least 3000...Auto clutch will set as high as they can...or set to what you ask for...Neill is probably the best clutch adviser/maker/setter in NZ

My clutch is set to 4300lb(road car) and 3850lb (rally car)

[Guest]

I was talking to autoclutch last week in relation to my v5 he told me 3200lb clamp and be good for 350-400kw.

Exedy/extreme are around 2200 on hd not button IIRC.

[Marky]

I swear there's two different measurements for clutch force or something - I had a 2400lb (ish?) one in a mitsi once upon a time and it was pretty fricken solid (both in use and under the foot), survived a good few hundred 300hp+ launches

That said, used twin plates rated near double that and they felt light as a feather

So nevermind

to OP sorry can't help but had to comment

[Guest]

Clamping force and foot pressure are completely different. I told the autoclutch dude I had a exedy brass button 5puk and it was a mission in aucks he explained why to me made sense at the time but bother knows what he said now lol. He said there ones werent to bad but a bit heavier than stock but nothing like exedy puk ones which would handle less power also.

[titian]

Autoclutch knows his stuff!...My first attempt at a "heavy duty" clutch was a Excedy out of the box rated at 3000lb.

It had a real heavy pedal too!...But it slipped. > After i took it out and gave it to Autoclutch he measured it at a mere 1800lb...He reset it and then assured me it was now at 4300lb...The pedal is nice and light and boy o boy does it hook up real nice!. :)..Does not slip at all ever!...My vehicle pulls 250Kw in 4th