Help with new motor build?

[hijacka]

 sultan said:

you will need to strengthen the block. especially if you\'re going for high boost or high rpm

which is why i said darton sleeve the old ej20 closed deck block and bore out to 100mm

The result will look like this

[sultan]

good for a 800hp+ drag car, not much use in a street car. the closed decks themselves are good enough for 600hp which i\'d consider the upper limits of a street car, as are ej257 or strengthened ej25

[hijacka]

 sultan said:

good for a 800hp+ drag car, not much use in a street car. the closed decks themselves are good enough for 600hp which i\'d consider the upper limits of a street car, as are ej257 or strengthened ej25

Don\'t see why its \'\'not much use in a street car\'\' ??? To me it would seem like the obviously path to take but each to there own i guess

IMO You could buy and get the darton sleeves installed for around $1500 say.. . A hard iron sleeve is going to be much stronger than any standard bore and you will not only have a fully closed deck with a nice thick hard iron sleeve you also have the benefit of oil squirters aswell. and can machine out for rear thrust. The cost of strengthing a ej25 etc won\'t be far behind that.

The op does say he has a reasonable budget

[sultan]

You sleeve the ej25 because of its inferior block design being a necessity for any form of reliable power. It\'s a waste of money sleeving an ej20 on a street car because the block will not be the weak point on the car or engine

[funkytown]

lets be serious and realistic here for a minute, none one in CS races competitively anyways, anywhere near where anything over even 500hp can support.

(drags = different obviously).

So... again as Sultan has stated sleeving seems a pointless waste of time bar the sticker you can put on the side of your car. Taking a CDB is more than enough for well into racing territory and some more beyond that, adjusting for rear thrust is reasonable, but save the sleeving cost and look to spend your cash on something that will actually make a material difference.

Racing being materially harder on a motor than any street diving ever would be.

as if evidence to the cause a shity open deck seems to support 500hp reasonably reliably it would seem

but we are going to end up back at the point covered many times... having 4523624514323kw \'bro\' in a street car... REALLY?? cool.... have fun with those 2nd gear pulls into illegal territory....You\'ll find the rest of us at some event enjoying a sensibly built 500hp

[filthyrich]

Meh realistically I only want 300-350

Should be able to do that at relatively low psi.

[funkytown]

what sized turbo... and what is relatively low ?? lol.. but seriously..

[sultan]

300-350 what? Engine hp or wheel kw?

Lower psi means bigger turbo to make power = worse driving experience. Building everything to an exact goal is what you want. Choose your power figure, choose your block type, select your maximum boost level to suit the block, select the turbo that will deliver that power at that psi, choose your pistons rods studs bolts etc to match, choose your cams and heads to get the most out of it, and you will have the best reliable drivable power

The other approach is to assemble a couple of bits because you got a good deal, then try and put it all together around that, and hope that it works. I don\'t suggest that way!