bloody car

[yellowsub]

hummm just been out for drive in my car given in a boot full only to find out theres a funny sound under boost and feels like something is holding it from full boost so get home check codes it tells me code 44 waste gate control solenoid Solenoid inoperative now im running a aftermarket ebc with the factory boost controller still pluged but not plumbed in so the ecu dosnt spit a code

lol dose any one have any thoughts how to clear this

this is on a gtb converted to single turbo running vf30 turbo and 6s ecu

help

[kamineko]

check the solenoid with a meter, the coil should be about 20ohms.

maybe your overboosting and the ecu assumes the factory WG control has failed? thats a bit of a guess

in this case just try a factory reset (assuming its in limp mode)

i wonder if your code 44 is an old code and something else is up. reset the ecu and see if it comes back up

if it does, and your solenoid is good, it could be the ecu. i can repair this fault

[yellowsub]

thanks man im gonna slap a resistor in the place of the factory controll and reset the ecu and see how we get on

but thanks for your help

[kamineko]

i assume your looking for a $17 replacement ecu in the meantime i\'ll keep a record of the email info here for others. also Gary can critique the method

 kamineko email']

hey man its not maken any sence to me ah whats happend is i have put a 20 om resostor in there and its burned it out i have put the factory boost controlla back in and tryed clearing code but its not clearing ah

i have sence looked futher into things and it should of been 30 oms plus so im gonna get another one tomorrow

20/30 ohms not a huge issue there, but if you used a 1/4W resistor then yeah that\'ll cook pretty quick. even a 5W job will get toasty

i\'d suggest making sure your wiring and solenoid are good before deciding the ecu is at fault. make sure none of your wiring is shorted.

i can write out a few useful tests for you if you have a multimeter, i\'m not sure on your experience there

[quote name='yellowsub said:

Yep I\'m all good with muti meter so

So am I gonna need a 12 volt resotor at 33 oms then

If u could send some info before I fork out money to get it repared would be huge help

/quote]

first off, resistors are rated by the power they handle, not the voltage. 12V across 33ohms will dissipate about 4.4Watts of heat. so you need to use at least a 5W ceramic resistor. even that\'ll get quite hot but should be ok for testing.

check the resistance of the solenoid itself. as you\'ve mentioned, it should be around 30ohms. you can also touch the solenoid directly across the 12V battery. it will click loudly if its working when you power and unpower it. don\'t leave it connected too long.

if the solenoid isn\'t working, install the resistor. dont let the resistor leads short on the chassis. keep the resistor away from meltable plastic. reset the ecu. go for a drive. check for codes

still code 44:

with the car started, check the DC voltage at the solenoid loom plug. is it 0V, 12V or pulsing? note the polarity of the voltage on the plug. (+ should have a yellow wire)

pulsing: seems normal. if your multimeter has a frequency function you should be able to measure it. rest of tests irrelevant.

0V: check DC voltage between each pin and chassis Ground. one should be 12V, note it.

12V: seems to be a fault as the solenoid should not be always on.

the ecu switches ground to the solenoid. to make sure the ecu is doing the switching, and the negative wire isn\'t shorted:

car off. remove the largest (or all) of the ecu plugs in the passenger footwell

check for NO continuity between the negative pin on the solenoid plug and chassis ground.

continuity: there seems to be a short in your wiring. follow the wire from the solenoid and check for loom damage

no continuity: good.

now plug the ecu back in. dont turn the car on. repeat the continuity check between negative pin on the solenoid plug and chassis ground.

continuity: appears to be a fault in the ecu electronics.

no continuity: seems normal.

get back to me with the results. it should be enough information to see whats going on. be careful when testing the plug not to short the multimeter probes together.

just to be clear, you are joining the green/green and black/black plugs under the dash and going for a drive to reset the ecu? the CEL will flash steadily when its happy, or spit more codes. doesn\'t take long. remember to unplug both connectors.