Is there a way to easily remove the manifold

[pixelplay]

I was removing the manifold today and had some major issues removing a few bolts and wanted to know if anybody had a more simpler way to do things? One of the issue I had was that one of the manifold bolts was hidden beneath the turbo hose and getting the hose out of the way was not easy at all. I ended up undoing the hose and forcing it off so it was out of the way enough to undo the bolt. It seems a bit extreme but I could find no other way to do it.

The second issue was that on each side there are the injectors and removing the bolts was almost impossible ( lucky I was doing this on a pick a part car as i snapped a couple because they were so seized up. do these really need to come off or should they be left in place and the leads just unclipped?

Removing the compressor was also an issue because one of the bolts is hidden under the manifold. I notice on my car this bolts been left off I assume because of this.

The loom seems to be would around in a number of places is it necessary to unclip it all to make getting the manifold off easily?

[Koom]

For the injectors, detach the fuel hoses over by the filter/firewall and the lot comes off with the manifold. The loom also comes off with the manifold so unplug anything that attaches to the car.

There's water hoses that need to be detached from the throttle body and the idle control valve on some models.

I think the standard inlet to the turbo usual stays attached to the manifold too?

Basically, the manifold comes off the block and takes everything with it (except alternator, ps pump and ac compressor which have to be removed first). Need to unplug the loom from the cam, crank, water temp sensors etc as they stay on the block.

[les666]

I found when taking mine off that to get the primary inlet off the turbo you can get to it easier if you take out the window washer bottle. Pop it off and bend it towards the throttle body and you have easy access to the manifold bolt under it. As Koom says everything pretty much stays attached to the manifold. You will also need to remove the power steering pump to make things easier as well.

[pixelplay]

Awesome advice guys I was taking it off in the rain at pick a part so wasn't in the best of moods when removing it. One other thing was that under the manifold there is another hosing and it also need removing on my car so I can add a new pipe to it but this also seems to be a bit of a hard one to get the bolts out of. Would you normally pre-soak them in CRC or some other type of release fluid?

Is that an easy way to remove the pulley that covers the cam belt as i need to get at the water pump and wasn't sure how to lock the cams to stop them turning as i try to undo the bolts on the center of the pulley?

[pixelplay]

I still cant seem to get that turbo pipe out the way and here are some pics of the part i am talking about to help.

This pics a close up showing the location of the hidden bolt

Its seems really difficult to remove and i guess if the engine and turbo were out of the car it would be far more simple.

[les666]

The inlet to the turbo will be quite hard to remove as it will be semi fused by heat. Just go around the whole inlet trying to work it loose. You can fold it back over on itself a little and then should be able to lift it up and bend it towards the throttle body to access the manifold bolt.

[pixelplay]

Got it off in the end but the lips damaged because its so old and had to be rough to get it off. Might have to take another trip to pick a part to look for a replacement.

I have added a pic here so you can see how it looks.

Have others encountered this also? I am not sure if i am being to concerned about this or not. Maybe I should just see if i can get it connected and not worry about it. Let me know what you think. By the way all the ones at pick a part were either damaged or the same as my one and calling wreakers it seems to be a common issue.

I even got quoted $700 +GST by strong for a new one, $370 by Armstrong here in Welly for a new one and $$150 at a wreckers for a second hand one. Seemed over the top pricing for a silly injection molded piece of plastic.

Edited December 17, 2014 by pixelplay

[STiNGR]

 

Is that an easy way to remove the pulley that covers the cam belt as i need to get at the water pump and wasn't sure how to lock the cams to stop them turning as i try to undo the bolts on the center of the pulley?

Handbrake up tight!!! Select 3rd gear and you will be able to remove crank pulley bolt.

[pixelplay]

 STiNGR said:

Handbrake up tight!!! Select 3rd gear and you will be able to remove crank pulley bolt.

Its an auto grrrr. But actually I did think of a way to do it, and that's to use a oil filter removal tool the one with the rubber strap over each cam so i can undo the bolts they are normally not that tight anyway and my pulleys are plastic.

For the crank pulley bolt I used my cheater bar and removed the auto inspection port rubber and then just locked the flywheel with a screwdriver and that worked quite well, plus it can be used to tighten it the same way.

[Guest]

Lock flywheel with a screwdriver. Should be a cover drivers side of bellhousing area on block.

Edit didnt read see you did it already lol.

[pixelplay]

 evowrx said:

Lock flywheel with a screwdriver. Should be a cover drivers side of bellhousing area on block.

Edit didnt read see you did it already lol.

All good cheers anyway, it was really the actual plastic cam wheels I had the issues with, because once the timing belt is off there is no way to tighten the cam wheel bolts without the special Subaru tool that's made to lock them. with the metal one they can be locked in a few dodgy ways but the plastic ones have no real way to lock them unless you use an old timing belt to hold them. I locked mine by using the old timing belt but I think the better way would be to use a oil filter removal tool as that way I could have wrapped the rubber belt around them and then held the handle while I torqued them back up.