6s ecu pin out and help

[SUBRMN]

first of all does any one have good pictures of a v3 sti 6s ecu pin out thanks

I also need help for grounds and 12v supply to and from the ecu

b136-1&2 are a constant power supply im not sure

b137-15 is that a constant 12v or is that is from and ignition switch

ground wire which ones do I leave which ones can I run a new ground to block b136-13 b137-25 b137-24 b137-14 b136-12

b135-2 starter switch do I connect that to 12v source

b135-10 AC is this 12v from ac ignition

b136-11 AC switch is this 12v from acc ignition or does this feed 12v to ignition

please help as I want to start my car and this is what I need to get around

[SUBRMN]

Also is the fuel pump relay on a rs legacy constant ground or a ground switch from ecu and should this ground have low voltage running through it. I ask because my fuel pump ain't going but wen I ground the relay it works I check the ground and it has a low voltage running through it

[Rosssub]

Pinout:

http://www.brdevelopments.com/docs/MY97ecu.pdf

Earthing mods and other changes in here:

http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?10035-Update-4-plug-TT-Legacy-to-3-plug-WRX-Ecu-Conversion

More in here:

http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?43789-ECU-Repin-Swap

Then more here under post #3:

http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?46299-ClubSub-Technical-FAQ-*Beta*

[SUBRMN]

Thanks mate just another quick question am I to believe that B135 pin 4&5 which say data check connectors on my pin out pic are they the two that if they join make the engine light flash codes thanks

[SUBRMN]

Also B136 20&21 the other lines to connect for code reading please can any one help I need to read the codes but don't have the black and green connectors

[Rosssub]

B135/4&5 are for the select monitor signal. So will both go the ODB plug.

B136/20 is the read memory wire. I think it just needs to be earthed to flash fault codes.

B136/21 is the test mode connector. Again just needs to be earthed to switch into test mode.

[SUBRMN]

Thanks mate great so I got code 21 31 44&45 water temp sensor throttle position sensor which I'm not sure why it's popping up waste gate and map sensor.

?

What happens wen these codes come to lite is it bad

Temp sensor doesn't real mater does it

How to fix map sensor and throttle sensor

And wastegate sensor is that needed really

[SUBRMN]

I have no idle control I have screwed open the throttle alittle for idle is this affecting throttle position sensor but other sensor are as normal thanks

[SUBRMN]

So I just took it for a ride and its has I big cut out like boost defender etc wen I hit 6.8psi could this be due to the map sensor thanks

[Rosssub]

It will be in limp mode because of the CEL/current fault codes.

21 - Coolant temp sensor

31 - Throttle position sensor

44 - Boost control solenoid

45 - MAP sensor and atmospheric pressure change solenoid

21 - The coolant temp sensor is very important for it to run correctly. When the engine is cold or warming up the ECU adds fuel (cold run enrichment). It will also make it over fuel when the engine is warmed up. Either a faulty sensor or a wiring fault. It should be giving 0.6V-1.0V when warmed up.

31 - TPS, could be throwing a CEL because you have the throttle plate adjusted to control idle. You will need to adjust the TPS to give 0.5V at warm idle.

44 - Did you swap two pins at the ECU? The exhaust control valve duty solenoid pin and the primary boost solenoid pin. So that the ECV duty solenoid becomes the BCS.

45 - Covers one sensor (MAP) and one solenoid (atmospheric pressure change solenoid). The MAP sensor can read manifold pressure and atmospheric pressure. The pressure change solenoid is between the manifold and the MAP sensor, so it can cut manifold pressure to the MAP sensor during deceleration. So that the MAP can then read atmospheric pressure.

[SUBRMN]

I have map sensor straight to

Manifold I don't have the other sensor I also have electronic boost control so I'm not using standard boost sensor as for the rest I'll check are you saying I have to turn throttle position sensor to put back to zero throttle open

[SUBRMN]

I have map sensor straight to manifold does this work or do I need to feed that through atmospheric sensor first are you saying I need to tweet/turn my tps to zero my throttle I run water temp sender straight from ecu to back of speedo cluster is that ok or may this be causing fault and I have electronic boost control do I need standard boost solenoid

[Rosssub]

You will need the atmospheric pressure change solenoid (pressure sources switching solenoid valve) wired in to stop CEL 45. It's normally in the BBOD and is connected to ECU B137/6. It needs to be plumed in between the MAP sensor and intake manifold.

http://www.brdevelopments.com/docs/MY97ecu.pdf

You will also need the boost solenoid wired in to stop CEL 44. Even if it has no vac hoses going to it, still needs to be wired/plugged in.

Yes you need to adjust the TPS so it gives 0.5V at idle using a multimeter. At the moment your ECU thinks the throttle is always open.

Does your alloy coolant pipe on the block have two coolant sensors, one small one and one big one? If it does the small one is for the dash temp gauge, the bigger one is for the ECU. This pic shows the coolant sensors:

1 pin sensor to dash temp gauge.

2 pin sensor to ECU B136/3 (signal) & B136/13 (ground).

3 pin sensor is used on later models, BH/V7.

Edited September 26, 2015 by Rosssub

[SUBRMN]

45 code is gone now thanks a lot your a great help the two pin sensor for temp does it matter which way it's wired can either one be earth and 44 still present with boost solinoid plugged in but no vacum

[SUBRMN]

Also which wire doi check of the three on the tps in not sure how to do it or use the multi meter on it thanks I have a multi meter though as I adjust tps with vehicle off I'm guess ignition on do I expect the voltage to change as I adjust it/tps

[Rosssub]

 SUBRMN']45 code is gone now thanks a lot your a great help the two pin sensor for temp does it matter which way it's wired can either one be earth and 44 still present with boost solinoid plugged in but no vacum

I think the coolant temp sensor can be wired either way, polarity doesn't matter.

For the boost solenoid, is it the one in the left guard you have plugged in? Or did you swap the boost solenoid and exhaust control valve duty solenoid pins at the ECU?

[quote name='SUBRMN said:

Also which wire doi check of the three on the tps in not sure how to do it or use the multi meter on it thanks I have a multi meter though as I adjust tps with vehicle off I'm guess ignition on do I expect the voltage to change as I adjust it/tps

The middle wire is the signal wire to the ECU. Turn the ignition on and probe that wire with the multimeter set to 12V/DC. Then loosen the two TPS mounting screws and rotate the TPS sensor until the multimeter shows 0.5V. The voltage will change as you turn the sensor.

[Guest]

Whats this in ray the rs shell with v3/4 engine setup and stock ecu now?

[SUBRMN]

Yea Clint I'm a bit stumped arm how to read my multi reader damit it's reading 17.3 and I have no idea what that means

[Rosssub]

Put the multimeter probes onto both battery terminals, with the engine off. Then change the settings on the meter until it shows about 12.6, that will be the volts/DC setting.

[SUBRMN]

My battery shows 14.4 volts that's the correct setting aye so put positive probe in middle wire on tps and ground the black is that correct or another way

[Rosssub]

Yip, guessing that's with the engine running. Doesn't matter which way round the probes are. But yes, one into the wire and the other earthed onto the block.

To probe wires, I push a sewing needle through the wire. Then put the probe onto the needle. Saves a big hole through the wires insulation.

[SUBRMN]

http://www.enduringautomotive.com/tps/ so I found this you have been a great help

Mate thanks a lot

[SUBRMN]

No it's actually with car off I thought it was unusual as its only 12 volt batery

[SUBRMN]

so I've disconnected the tps plug to check ground which is zero power 5v but middle ecu pin is putting out 12.3v but at ecu pin 136-16 it's putting out 12.3v aswell is this unusual how can I trace the problem cheers

Edited September 26, 2015 by SUBRMN

[SUBRMN]

so new code 24 idle air control I presume that's the idle control solinoid which I don't have but I have sorted the code 31 tps I re wired pin 136-16 and turned tps till I had 0.5v thanks for your great mentoring thanks club sub but now code 24 does it even matter? I don't have it plugged I don't the satandard port for it any more any way