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V5/6 Gauge Cluster into V1/2


Guest lan_killa

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Guest lan_killa

my notes can be used as guidelines, but seeing as you have a slightly different cluster than me I would strongly advise that you trace out the the circuitry on both your clusters before going cutting and joining... also have you got the correct loom/plugs for your new one?

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my cluster is identical to yours so the circuitry should be the same. its a genuine subaru with a number. i just got the speed sensor, i now need the loom for it. no i dont have the plugs im still looking :( all i can say is im so jealous youve done yours :(

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Guest lan_killa

still have a check as some pins do move as my loom didnt match my cluster... with the sensor does it just have a plug on the top or leads coming out of it? When I do the write up you will see I attached a repco 2 pin plug to the end of it and ran my own wires through the gromet in the firewall where the speedo cluster used to be.

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good work is it an after market one?

also with my cluster if i un-plug my cigarette lighter my speedo doesn't go so my km don't click over and my dash lights do funny things just thought i'd chuck that in there found out when installing a head unit and we needed to go for a drive with the dash is pieces to get the right plug.

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 QRAF said:

good work is it an after market one?

also with my cluster if i un-plug my cigarette lighter my speedo doesn't go so my km don't click over and my dash lights do funny things just thought i'd chuck that in there found out when installing a head unit and we needed to go for a drive with the dash is pieces to get the right plug.

If only i could do that on my diesel van lol

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  • 3 weeks later...
Guest lan_killa

Write Up (Will be adding to this over the next few days):

Fitting V4 Gauges into your V1/2/3

Funnily enough this is a very simple process, just delicate and time consuming. My decision to do the swap was because I didnt like the fact that the Needles on the V1/2 Gauges dont light up, only the numbers do, which makes for some interesting night driving. The swap also gives the added bonus of a clock, which is something that is missing in the V1/2's.

Heres my Factory Gauges in my V1 WRX:

SDC10014.JPG

SDC10015.JPG

Heres the later model gauges I have fitted

SDC10004.JPG

SDC10005.JPG

Shopping List:

-Gauge cluster (get one suitable to your car ie. 7000rpm or 8000rpm redline/dccd/auto/sti etc, Im non STI with a 7000rpm redline/rev limiter and manual, so I chose the cluster pictured above)

When you source the cluster it is VERY important you get a V4 one... DO NOT GET A v5/6 one or youll be up shit creek as the V5/6 is very different on the electrical side of things, uses a PCB for starters and isnt overly easy to trace everything.

-Plugs with Loom to fit new cluster PART NUMBER 81312 FA010

-2 pin Electronic Speed Sensor with wires (or plug and a bit of the loom)

-1 meter length of single pair cable (ie cable with 2 cores aka speaker cable)

-33 Male bullet crimps (get some spares)

-33 Femail bullet crimps (get some spares)

-2 pin plug from repco

-a small sheet of MDF/Plastic/Fake carbon fiber

-3 different colours of insulation tape

Tools needed:

-a GOOD crimp tool

-a GOOD wire stripper

-a socket set

-a phillips screwdriver

-a hacksaw

-a holesaw set

-a drill (with drill bits)

-a bandsaw (not completely nessacary)

Lets start...

Take your loom plug the 3 plugs into the new cluster, you should have 2 plugs on the other end, cut these off as they are of no use to you. Now seperate the loom by taking all the tape off and you should end up with the 3 plugs/looms seperated from each other, while your doing this make sure that there is a wire in place for the pins on your cluster, if there are some missing move the ones that you wont be needing into the place you do need them. Now Wrap each loom in a different colour of insualtion tape, this will help make it easier to identify whats what when your working in the dash. Crimp the MALE bullets onto the end of every wire.

INSERT PIC HERE

The pin out of the new cluster should be as follows:

[table]

[tr]

[td][/td]

[td]A[/td]

[td]B[/td]

[td]C[/td]

[/tr]

[tr]

[td]1[/td]

[td]Backlight +/-[/td]

[td]Tacho -ve Pulse[/td]

[td]ACC +ve for Clock (this turns on the screen)[/td]

[/tr]

[tr]

[td]2[/td]

[td]Speedo +ve from speed sensor[/td]

[td]Right Indicator Light +ve[/td]

[td]Temp Gauge from Sender (I think -ve)[/td]

[/tr]

[tr]

[td]3[/td]

[td]Speedo Pulse to ECU[/td]

[td]Connected via diode to Door Open -ve (maybe to trigger

internal light?)[/td]

[td]N/C[/td]

[/tr]

[tr]

[td]4[/td]

[td]Speedo -ve from speed sensor[/td]

[td]Unsure (Maybe to do with airbag light)[/td]

[td]N/C[/td]

[/tr]

[tr]

[td]5[/td]

[td]+ve constant (speedo, clock, door)[/td]

[td]Left Indicator Light +ve[/td]

[td]I/C Spray Light -ve (N/A for me)[/td]

[/tr]

[tr]

[td]6[/td]

[td]Oil Light -ve[/td]

[td]N/C[/td]

[td]Unused bulb holder -ve (N/A for me)[/td]

[/tr]

[tr]

[td]7[/td]

[td]Seatbelt Light -ve[/td]

[td]GND/-ve[/td]

[td]Power Light -ve (N/A for me)[/td]

[/tr]

[tr]

[td]8[/td]

[td]Battery/Alt Light -ve[/td]

[td]Temp Gauge -ve/GND[/td]

[td]Hold Light -ve (N/A for me)[/td]

[/tr]

[tr]

[td]9[/td]

[td]CEL -ve[/td]

[td]IGN +ve[/td]

[td]ABS Light -ve[/td]

[/tr]

[tr]

[td]10[/td]

[td]Handbrake Light -ve[/td]

[td]Illumination of Clock (unsure of + or -ve)[/td]

[td]Exhaust Temp Light -ve[/td]

[/tr]

[tr]

[td]11[/td]

[td]Door Open Light -ve[/td]

[td]N/A[/td]

[td]Fuel Light -ve (This is interesting as I thought the light would have

been triggered by the gauge rather than remotely)[/td]

[/tr]

[tr]

[td]12[/td]

[td]Highbeam Light +/-ve[/td]

[td]N/A[/td]

[td]Fuel Gauge from sender (I think +ve)[/td]

[/tr]

[tr]

[td]13[/td]

[td]Highbeam Light +/-ve[/td]

[td]N/A[/td]

[td]Back Light +/-[/td]

[/tr]

[/table]

I have numbered them as follows

A = Left hand Plug (13 Pin)

B = Middle Plug (10 Pin)

C = Right hand Plug (13 Pin)

Pins are numbered 1 - 10/13 from left to right

Here is the pin out of the original cluster:

[table]

[tr]

[td][/td]

[td]A[/td]

[td]B[/td]

[/tr]

[tr]

[td]1[/td]

[td]MANU Light -ve (N/A for me)[/td]

[td]Highbeam Light +/-[/td]

[/tr]

[tr]

[td]2[/td]

[td]Ignition +ve[/td]

[td]Highbeam Light +/-[/td]

[/tr]

[tr]

[td]3[/td]

[td]Fuel Gauge -ve/GND[/td]

[td]Left Indicator Light +ve[/td]

[/tr]

[tr]

[td]4[/td]

[td]CEL -ve[/td]

[td]Seatbelt Light -ve[/td]

[/tr]

[tr]

[td]5[/td]

[td]Temp Gauge from sender[/td]

[td]Door Light +/-[/td]

[/tr]

[tr]

[td]6[/td]

[td]Battery/Alt Light -ve[/td]

[td]Speedo Pulse to ECU[/td]

[/tr]

[tr]

[td]7[/td]

[td]Oil Light -ve[/td]

[td]Door Light +/-[/td]

[/tr]

[tr]

[td]8[/td]

[td]Exhaust Temp Light -ve[/td]

[td]Power Light -ve (N/A for me)[/td]

[/tr]

[tr]

[td]9[/td]

[td]ABS Light -ve[/td]

[td]Spare Bulb Holder -ve[/td]

[/tr]

[tr]

[td]10[/td]

[td]Spare Bulb Holder -ve[/td]

[td]Spare Bulb Holder -ve[/td]

[/tr]

[tr]

[td]11[/td]

[td]Demister Light -ve[/td]

[td]LO Light -ve (N/A for me)[/td]

[/tr]

[tr]

[td]12[/td]

[td]Tacho Pulse[/td]

[td]Fuel Gauge from sender[/td]

[/tr]

[tr]

[td]13[/td]

[td]Right Indicator Bulb +ve[/td]

[td]N/C[/td]

[/tr]

[tr]

[td]14[/td]

[td]Handbrake Light -ve[/td]

[td]N/C[/td]

[/tr]

[tr]

[td]15[/td]

[td]Backlight +/-[/td]

[td]Ground/-ve for Speedo, Tacho, bulbs, fuelgauge[/td]

[/tr]

[tr]

[td]16[/td]

[td]Backlight +/-[/td]

[td]FWD Light -ve (N/A for me)[/td]

[/tr]

[/table]

I have numbered them as follows

A = Left hand Plug (16 Pin)

B = Right hand Plug (16 Pin)

Pins are numbered 1 - 16 from left to right (clockwise)

You will also notice a blue plug in the middle of your old cluster... Remove this module from the cluster and connect it to the plug and put it somewhere out of the way inside your dash. This module makes that stupid dinging when the doors open. But it also has some control over the interior light for the drivers door, so if its not inplace then your interior light will not come on

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Guest lan_killa
 Swindog said:

Where did you find this speedo cluster? I wanna put one in my V5. Hate when it goes off the clock and you cant tell where it is.

trademe

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