Throwing Code 32 (O2 sensor) from time to time.

[dumbskate]

I replaced my O2 sensor with a second hand, tested one thanks to Pappu a while back and all was good for a little while but it seems to be one long hills at about 3,000 rpm the "check engine" light will come on and thsi is always due to a code 32. I have cleared the memory in the correct manner on a test drive but the check engine light starts again with the code 32 so obviously the problem is constant but only throws the error when the ECU is really over it.

What can make it always be receiving an error from the sensor but only throw the code on the odd occasion?

Also and this may be part of the issue, Pappu sold me a 4 wire to replace my three wire and I simply soldered the two earth wires together as he said it woudl be fine.

Any thoughts?

[log1call]

Are you sure the motor isn't miss-firing under load?

When did you last do the spark-plugs and leads?

Are you sure it isn't running lean up the hill?

When did you last do the fuel filter/

[Guest boostin]

A reco'd O2 sensor? Are you for real? And not even the correct one for the car either...

Go buy a new (as in brand new) sensor.

[dumbskate]

 log1call said:

Are you sure the motor isn't miss-firing under load?

When did you last do the spark-plugs and leads?

Are you sure it isn't running lean up the hill?

When did you last do the fuel filter/

All good points.

I bought the car 9,000km ago as a fresh import and haven't replaced either the plugs (coil on plug type) or the fuel filter. I know the fuel filter will need replacing but the last time I got as far as putting the new one in when I discovered that Repco had given me the wrong part and I just couldn't bring myself to taking it apart again. One year on and I have a garage and more time so I will eliminate that and check the plugs before going any further.

[dumbskate]

A reco'd O2 sensor? Are you for real? And not even the correct one for the car either...

Go buy a new (as in brand new) sensor.

[/quote

Ah boostin! your right up on it this weekend.

Yeah I was heading that way but Pappu seemed to be trust worthy and up on his game so I gave it a shot. If it how ever does turn out to be the O2 sensor at fault I will have to go back to ol Pappu for a refund.

[Guest boostin]

I'm not meaning to be rude, but I've been in the industry for over 10 years and I've never heard of a reconditioned O2 sensor. Look at the conditions it has to work in. 1000^oC + of exhaust temp has gotta be hard on anything. I would never fit anything but a brand new O2 sensor.

[dumbskate]

 boostin said:

I'm not meaning to be rude, but I've been in the industry for over 10 years and I've never heard of a reconditioned O2 sensor. Look at the conditions it has to work in. 1000^oC + of exhaust temp has gotta be hard on anything. I would never fit anything but a brand new O2 sensor.

Sorry that was my mistake. Pappu sold me a tested second hand sensor. he in no way described it as reconditioned, that was my fault in describing it and I have changed this in the first post now.

Boostin Your in the Auckland area, do you work for a mechanic and can I just book in for some diagnostics?

We coudl listen to my injectors at the same time ;D

[G-unit]

wats a new 02 sensor worth? i dont need 1 just wana know lol

[dubbedup]

IIRC~$160

[dumbskate]

 dubbedup said:

IIRC~$160

And for my Gen I BH?

[Guest boostin]

They're all different. The one I need for our WRX is well over $300.

Yes, I'm at Wingers in Greenlane. A diagnostic will cost you heaps though. $60 for the Select Monitor plus whatever labour time at $97.50 an hour. Both plus GST. They know how to rip hard there.

Go see Alex at Highbrook Automotive.

[dumbskate]

 boostin said:

Go see Alex at Highbrook Automotive.

Oh why is everything always so far out of town?! Yeah I will have to go 20 minutes further each way and so be it.

[dumbskate]

 log1call said:

Are you sure the motor isn't miss-firing under load?

When did you last do the spark-plugs and leads?

Are you sure it isn't running lean up the hill?

When did you last do the fuel filter/

Also the issue that stems from my question at the top of the page is what type of fault would cause the "check engine" light to flash this error during a drive in test mode after the memory has been cleared? That makes me think that either the issue is tripping the sensor continuously or the sensor is faulty.

[log1call]

Unburnt fuel from a miss-fire will trigger the o2 code. A lot of the trouble codes can get set because of something other than a defective compoment the code refers to.

If the idle control valve can't get the revs within the desired range because there is an air leak... it sets an idle cobtrol code.

If there is a rich or lean mixture that the feed back from the o2 sensor can't overcome, like an air leak or a missfire say, then the o2 code gets set..

[dumbskate]

 log1call said:

Unburnt fuel from a miss-fire will trigger the o2 code. A lot of the trouble codes can get set because of something other than a defective compoment the code refers to.

If the idle control valve can't get the revs within the desired range because there is an air leak... it sets an idle cobtrol code.

If there is a rich or lean mixture that the feed back from the o2 sensor can't overcome, like an air leak or a missfire say, then the o2 code gets set..

Right you are.

I would say its spark plugs, and fuel pump first then we will see what's what

[log1call]

Forget the pump, they are expensive and should go for years.

Do the ignition first. Check for air leaks on all the small hoses. Clean or replace the aircleaner and change the fuel filter. Those are all routine service jobs.

[dumbskate]

Yeah sorry I should have said filter. Mine is at the pump in the tank. So at 111K will the pump be OK? I will get in there and replace the filter. I am pretty sure air leaks are not a problem but plugs will be done too.

[log1call]

There will be fuel filter under the bonnet I'm pretty sure.

If you don't run them out of fuel the pumps can go for twenty years and a quarter million kilometres and more.

[dumbskate]

I'm pretty sure its at the pump on the BH onwards.

[Guest boostin]

Fuel filters are intank for BE/BH. They are intank for BL/BP also, but not available separate from the fuel pump assembly.

Get the output of the sensor checked. It is very easy to tell a good sensor from a bad within a minute or so.

[log1call]

Oh, ok, I've never noticed about the fuel filters.

I pressume that since subaru think they can put them in the tank that they must be pretty reliable.

As has been suggested, the o2 sensor can be checked very easily with an electrical gauge, and, the fuel pressure and flow can be checked easily as well. Always a good idea before you statr spending money on parts you may not need.

[dumbskate]

 log1call said:

And has been suggested, the o2 sensor can be checked very easily with an electrical gauge, and, the fuel pressure and flow can be checked easily as well. Always a good idea before you statr spending money on parts you may not need.

Yeah I found a few tips on how to check the Ohm of each injector. But to my thinking the ticking will be coming from the little "piston" that open to allow fuel in, knocking when it reached one end of its stroke. So if this is correct can I get my yellow injectors rebuilt?

[log1call]

Huh? Is this a change of topic or what?

Just kidding!

Yeah, no, I really don't know about overhauling injectors. I don't think they can be overhauled, but hey, what do I know?

If you really are determined to throw money at the car I'm sure there will be someone out there that will be happy to take your money and sell you some new or overhauled injectors.

It may not stop the trouble light or the O2 code but hey, what the heck.

[dumbskate]

Yeah that's what you get when you have two post running at the same time I guess.

As said before I would say its spark plugs check/replace first then we will see what's what after that.